black lace

You'v cloned it. Lol. Some one had to do it..

Usualy only the simplest thing, if your confident it aint the coil or dry wicking, and your coil aint shorting against the top of the chimney,, have you looked inside the mod at your fire wire, power out to spring loaded center pin, ive had a few so called high end 510 connectors whose name i wont mention, where the bottom has dropped off, so the wire is just rattling around. Also the subtank has quite a long male end 510 to screw in, so anouther possibility that it may have forced the spring loaded center clean away on the inside of mod and so intermitantly shorting against ground when you fire, giving a reading on escribe, but nothing at the buissines end.

Seriously for a minut our mate, five hours to charge three 18650s with only a half amp usb charger, two must be dead or badly fitted regarding a contact and the one is piggybacking the others to give a reading.

I"ll have to look up xtars and turnigy b6, youve lost me. Lol

From post 9::: I brought my nitecore charger when i first started, it is slow, and does get almost worryingly warm when its charging four batteries, it is sat on a concreat block to help heat sink, but having said that the batteries dont get warm and i like the idear of charging nice and slow nice and cool, hopefully prolonging the battery life..

i do know theres a science experiment where you can power a small atomic clock with a potato, but when talking kebabs i think you would have to go quite heavy on the chilli sauce to pull wattage..

I cant remember the wattage i vaped mine at on a simular coil build, simular juice viscus, but set at 450 never reaching it. It would have been less than 30 watt though, See what the program does with a different attomiser or overwrite the program. Just thoes center pins give a poor connection and send everything off.

Well ive re read it and your grammer is as bad as my spelling, and i havnt noticed anything when connected to escribe when charging because i havent, all my 200s run on lipos as designed to, by the manufacture, quoting evolv, all responsible mod manufactures use lipo.. the only dealings i have with charging 18650 batteries besides my dna 40s is through a 4 sled nitecore for a sigelei 100 and a twin mech box and i sit that on a block paver to keep it cool, i havnt got ten twelve hours or whatever to sit and watch three 18650s charging at :50 amp. Even when using them as a twin paralal on a dna 40 the lag and the sink between them is awful, twin 26650 is even worse god knows what its like with three, i'll stick to me lipos thanx P.S it may be discharging after full charge because its upside down and the sparks and currents are falling out.. have you looked on the floor??? you havnt realy fully charged it, just one cell is probly fully charged then its sinking into and stabalising between the other two, making it look like a discharge..if you leave it on long enough it will fully charge if your batterys are ok, but like i said long time :50AMP long time..

Thoes subtanks have a floating type center pin, you screw your coil or build deck in and it only just touches if your lucky, after use the slightest knock disturbs it, same for the lemmo v2, very poor connections, i poped the centre pins on mine out and put a blob of solder on the end that touches the bottom of coil or deck, its a much firmer contact. The wicking in prebuilt coils is allways to tight, you need to drag half of it out to get some decent juice flow. The wire for these coils is so thin it distorts after a few tank loads,, to get mine to work to any degree of reliability i only use the build deck and have also ground out the juice channels three times over standard size and i dont use anything less than :32mm 28awg ni200 6 or 7 wraps on a 2:50 mm mandrill. It will knock a prebuilt coil into a cocked hat.

Think your :5A escribe charge is to do with the computer usb outlet. There are a few fast charge computer apps depending on the computers caperbilitys, ive heard one story of a friends neighbour charging an ecig pen thing, through a fast charge app... it went off like a pipe bomb, .. they say ..

It takes quite a long time at the moment, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, there havent been any screens now for several months, apparently the screen factory burned down and everyones waiting for replacements.

..Possibly a bad coil, or atty connection what is the set up? atty and coil details ? Simply no point in taking a stab in the dark :08 ohm & 350f could be anything on anything using anything.

Well as an early adopters forum, hopefully they will be coming out with somthing for everyone after studying what people are saying they need, it may be some new program and realy special..i know it is allready one of a kind but evolv do have a statement of staying up front in inovation and technology..(website home screen)

Ive seen thoes batterys with the carbon fiber look shell used in other 200watt devices as a standard fitment, cant put my finger on it at the moment..while on mobile

If i plug anyone of 4x dna200s into any one of three different samsung mobile phone chargers i have, which put out 0:7A the screens or boards wake up every ten minuts or so when charging from dead flat up until a certain point of the battery being recharged, i havent botherd connecting to escribe because as far as i know even back to the dna30 theres a certain amount of self checking even in sleep mode, it just does my head in a bit, having a number of mod screens lighting up when im tring to get into sleep mode, if i use the 1amp charger i have for my latest phone the phunomenum, (phunomenum) lol, doesnt happen.. its definatly a board and power thing and not down to the manufacturer of whatever mod because i build my own and use lipos and the op's reulueax uses a differen chemical for 18650s does it not..

Love the rocker up down,, and the fireing button Where do you get the 510 from please???

Ok Read your simular post thread on instalation and assembly, what was the issue to blow the fuse? Surly paying a shop to replace a fuse, and then remove and replace further components, then refit out weighs the value of the rogue board. from the research youve done through ebay it looks like a component will be a couple of quid, but thats the easy bit, i would recomend to you after one headach to anouther,, bin it..start the new year headach free, count your losses,, buy a vapourshark or somthing and dont take it to bits.. all the best

Puzzeld as to Why is it down to you if being worked on by a shop

I have also had one of those break, well chipped the side off actually, it is in bit of a shitt place when mounted, got it rma'd and had a replacement board sent out, they made me wait five weeks for the cheek of it though. I thought it was board temp sensor,,,,,,,so wheres that then??????

agree,,, they have been good to me,, even for all the bitching I do, but to be straight I will only buy direct from them in the future, all the boards I have purchased from reselers have come in a non sealed box, and some have failed within days or been inoperative from the start and said checked,,, checked it and buggered it moor like,,, I have never had a factory board fail yet,,,

what you have is pretty much dominated with film and gaming stuff and in dutch. and I cant get it to work.

oh good grief,,, pulled a few dna 40 large screens for re building and become so used to murdering the screen, buying a replacement was top of the materials list before even starting, but at only a fiver a time,, none of us new they were to become as rare as rocking horse ****, I would shelve it for a while see what turns up in the new year.......... in a 1590a I haven't even managed to replace a firing button or charger board without killing the screen.

There are some cracking mods comin through this week, whats the box and buttons from our mate.

Both -- together would have been favourble..for your,quote thermal conductivity, lol, it was moor of a flashing light thing, no worries, although looks nice, it is all a little bit just about, that ull do it, but not quite reaching manufactures recomendations, theres a thread been runing since the start of the forum called lets see your 200s ..and top left of all pages a link to evolv where you can copy the data sheet.

The first board i sent back.. one of those black mosfet things had a fire, i'll post a pic of it up when i get to the computer, I've seen a few like it and thought it was a text book blown chip.. you live and learn aye.. it would be nice to have a full road map of a dna 200 all parts and functions listed. update, cant find dam photo, was a good shot as well a perfect little hole burned through the one corner, like it hadn't bonded and had arked through. it looks like the mod your building is going to have some size to it.. also i notice you have a red tab on your screen rarther than green, in box, is that old or new stok.