black lace

You need to get out in the big outdoors more mate, I have had to rely on power banks & car charger for up to 10 days at a time last year, even camping at VapeFest it's 3 days. Lucky I have about 50-60 18650s.[/QUOTE] 50-60'-What if it rains,,lol

Not for me, i can run a lead from mine to shrewsbury.. Dinkys Diner is one of my haunts for breakfast, several times a month on rout to the m54 .. a solar pannel down to the cells i can see some logic.

One of the things about living in the UK, they say your never moor than ten feet away from a plug socket, lol

oh I see, I haven't tried anything like that yet, I would have thought a lipo would be cheaper, but we did all get a little caught out last year, with the change over,, I mean, we all had an abundance of 18650's. to use up.

yeh sorry, got you mixed with Laguz75 then. try and keep that new battery

sorry mate you've got me a little confused, do you mean you had converted it to run off two 18650'S?

oh ok, with a multi tester, ,, ive just googled lavabox they look very nice, they came out less than six months ago, I would recommend to you, take it up with the person you bought it off, I thought you had built it yourself, I would insist that you need a replacement because still only months old and statutory rights ect, even if you rma it you have to send the receipt in with it, and like you said last resort to send to USA, tell the vendor that's for him to do, hopefully youl be back on the road quicker ,,,so to speak,, all the best..

[/QUOTE]It will fire and work but will show imbalanced battery all the time and it will report as out of charge because of cell 3 voltage being misreported.[/QUOTE] ok got yah, sorry to ask and sound like a dork but what is it that your calling as "at the board" in relation to escribe? an what is the battery? also I suggest that because your soldering is sound I would solder in wires say 30mm long as leads to a jst connector as an extension, it will tuck in between the 200 board and mod beneath your usb, then also if you decide to direct wire and throw the connectors out altogether, you can join to the leads, if that makes sence

Does it not fire and work, ? Thought cell cut off point is 3:07 volt if it does work, have you not tried using the battery power up and recharging a few times to decharge recharge, getting it doing somthing can ballence and healthy it up your soldering is neat and precise but needs to be sniped down where the leads stick through the board to tidy it up perfect.

those are also very nice indeed, incidentally as a mater of pointless general knowledge, a brace is whatever the game keeper decides on the day, lol,

Oh ok, lol, thanx, lol,,

no disrespect to Efest,,and god knows I've had some,,, But,,, the last ones I had,,, cheap,,, there are a lot of them about nowadays , to use in a mech mod,, I had to get the rust off the contacts and the wrap or skin was very thin and split, and just wasn't right compared to other ones I've had,, I resurrected some vtc4s from a twin parallel DNA 30 clone mod that had had several months heavy use and every night charging, I can tell you that those old batteries, just one on its own out performed the purple things, and they were supposed to be new... below is a shot of the two vtc4, with a blob of solder on each end to make a tight contact in a loose sled and re skinned with 20mm heat shrink, which is about .5mm thick, a lot thicker than standard for both the Sony and Efest

lol, glad you got it working. that's a funny pic though, you gotta admit. any plans to incorporate the bottom inside the mod?[/QUOTE] if you can find a slightly moor sensertive button, keep it like that and flog it to steven hawkins. Lol

Tim Peke eat yer heart out..

Awsome sorted,,,, onviously im sure you know,, just tape up (insulate) your joints round the fuse base, or you will short out against somthing,, and undo everything youve done. ..

in device monitor, is the battery in a healthy state, example, one mod ive got here is down to its last quarter and says,,, pack 11.36 cell1 3.79 cell2 3.79 cell3 3.79 if the battery is in a poor state it may very well light up but be cut off from fireing...

what mod is that on mate,? because some mods ive made with an add on button as extra, rarther than push rod down to the board, the buttons have just collapsed inside after a lot of use, so theym still springy but seem to have a mind of their own as far as sending any kind of switch signal to fire.

have you not tried your local fuel station for a fuss,? what is the mod or do you have a photo? best of luck to yah, and don't forget to fully tape it up, insulate it..

thank you...I think your very right ..

with refrence to the thread 31st July the op used 32 guage as a temp fix to get it started and still ended up sending it in. QUOTE, Can you refer any picture / diagram of the wiring? QUOTE sorry but no, sorry mate, no disrespect or anything but,, for the simple reasons, my initial response to the thread was as a get out of jail fix assuming you where just going to get on with it knowing how to go about it. im now feeling like ive got to put my name to it, with you using my drawing as a refrence if something goes wrong, you still haven't established why the fuse blew. if I now change my answer to your original question to two parts (Suppose, if i remove the blown fuse and short both connections of the fuse with a wire, will it work? if yes please suggest a wire and its AWG) my answer would be 25amp fuse wire. and how is anybody going to know if it will still work the fuse would have blew for a reason.

found it while on phone, lol, its an old phone so it found that old post easy, lmao,,

Thanks for the reply......you may reply to this when u will be free. I have read and view the DNA200 data sheet portion relevant to "Fuse" is reproduced as under: Fuse Because of the energy and power stored in the battery, the DNA 200 includes an onboard 25 amp SMT fuse. The fuse is located on the underside of the PCB near the B+ battery terminal, and is labelled “Fuse” In normal operation the fuse should never blow. However, in the event of an error or short circuit on the board, the fuse will protect the battery. Should it need to be replaced, the fuse is manufactured by Schurter , part number 3413.0332.22 Replacement is accomplished by de-soldering the blown fuse from the board and soldering on a new fuse. No i dont know, i even dont know what are the general reasons of blowing the fuse. I have found a automotive fuse with an online vendor, which is described as: Features: Fuse Current Rating: 25A Voltage Rating DC:32V Picture: Will it work ??????????????? [/QUOTE] ok am back in the room, think its been covered well enough now anyway but it was an automotive 12volt 25 amp, the thread I reffered to is at /topic/67186-topic/ the fuse mentioned on the second page wasn't condemned as wouldn't work but I cannot emphasise enough if your not confident or have any warranty I would put a ticket in, you cant just put a great blob of solder on, possibly covering both contacts and then installing a fuse further down, it is quite micro, and you still haven't got to the initial cause for the fuse to blow,,

Sos mate am still on mobile, if you cant find anything through search and dont feel confident about it i would very much recomend putting a ticket in and wait for advise.. do you know what issue caused the fuse to burn up.

Am on mobile, but There is a thread somewhere, if you s earch for blown fuse. As a get out of jail you could solder a piece of wire to where the fuse sits and then use an automotive fuse between that and the battery, the data sheet should have the fuse rating, dont believe your wire would need to be to heavy a guage, compatable to the fuse.

Who are the them and someone els that you refer to?