black lace

I have had a board with no battery indication on screen no charging ect, all default settings checked and re checked, sent board back to factory a month ago, still in transit, have a tracking number, think it must be coming across America by wagon and then to the uk by rowing boat, if you know another board that will fit the pattern ive cut out the box let me know please.. am far from happy over this one, email comms replies are short and less than concerned.

posted input Nov 16th am still waiting for that board to come back.. am not amused, been watching the tracking info telling me its been sat in a chicargo depot for the past two weeks, must have been something I said

How much extra circuitry would it take to make it switchable so its your own option. Like who switches to stealth mode and vapes blind when in tc.

Board temp sensor..It looks like a little black barrel or graduation mortar board hat..on the outside edge of board about 15mm lower than your posertive power out on the same side of board as the buttons.. Coil temp is worked out by the chip measuring flucktuations in resistance.

I would check all my common used programs and make sure they all work properly, win 10 aint my cup of tea, moor like 3:1 for windows from the nineties 100% bull shitt free, my escribe crashes every time i open my storage file to load somthing, only the once but every time then its ok..you may need to find an uninstaller tool to remove all traces of it beffore re-installing..

My centiments on both above posts, im sure last year there where also some very annoyed dna40 owners, having bought a top of the range device for ££££ €€€€ $$$ only to be superceeded and dont get a look in now, not even a section on the forum for ni coil building. They are good boards a real mod builder enthusiasts board, but they also do your head in, direct comunications for replacements and spares are also very short, like just about helpfull.. they must be buisey writhing about on the money pile in the money room, smoking big fat cigars ...lamo...

Thanx for that info although im not the op, i havent got to grips with the ss403 i bought, but will look at the nife 48/52. The coils i built with stainles steel made custard tast like fish.

I know what your saying but the last shot shows bluing from a hot spot and it aint working properly an if ya can smell burning cotton its gone over 450, way over, moor like 750 for a coulor of blue, may have only took an initial 1 second burst of 100 watt and its destroyed the metal or something, id do one moor build, switch off preheat, set to 430 temp start at 18 watt and build it up until its kicking clouds, do you remember kanthal tutorial building with short pulsing a new coil with a weak battery kind of thing.. if it goes bonkers again and over heats like, doesn't come up to temperature but gets hot spots and blueing burning cotton,, that's a short,, like its arking but on a smaller scale, when you unspool your wire do you stretch it straight between a few pairs of pliers, this may damage the wire, it may also be crap wire.

I would check to see if your computer is waiting to install updates, and get them installed, then try again, then you should be ok for 10 days before they send you another load..

you need moor mods our mate lol , I build my own, 1590a's for rba's like kayfuns and g box's for drippers and I havn't a clue what category you would put a goblin mini in..

do you not find that you have to use it a bit before it stabilizes or conditions or runs in.. also I think you have to turn off pre heat and you don't have to measure or input leg or lead length when only using one strand.. I had a bash with 403 stainless, wasn't blown away by it, and I think you have to be careful with oxidation with the titanium, unless someone gives me a rock solid walk through with wire gauge, wraps and mandrel size, and manual input values i'll stick with ni200 and kenthal

do you not have 8 presets?? what I do is set a few different presets for the atomiser or dripper, then its only two clicks, I know this doesn't sound to helpful but don't you find that when you do up your temp or wattage you know what to go to because your used to doing it and where it needs to be, hope that doesn't sound as cleare as mud..

Although the op requested to close the topic i think it worth mentioning, as information for newcomers, there is absolutly nothing wrong in buying a top of the range mod as a first mod, why buy somthing less and then upgrade in a month. not all faults are down to the board and should be regarded as mechanical, eg, an atty with a slightly longer male end 510 can jam dowm inside the center pin on the mod, you may have to grasp the center pin and extend it back up. attys with screw in heater heads and floating or spring loaded center pins are never going to be as reliable as a straight through connection, , . in the past 12 months the vaping world has become awash with counterfit 18650 batteries and also you need to make sure the contacts are clean not rusty and the moor you use and charge them the healthier they become, push rod type bottons can snag on the side of the mod housing or chaff up internal componants like wires and screen ribbons so check for free movement.

Stating the obviouse, just get one from a reputable dealer even if online mail order with a good turnover and good waranty, then you cant realy go wrong, if your not a self builder..mod maker..

as a matter of interest will it function on escribe if the fuse has blown, im asking because its not allways clear to see it broken and if the op doesnt have a multi tester, not working may be the thing.. to get the fuse checked.. personaly never known anyone short out the wires on a lipo without leaving the floor, they are very angry little batteries, when you do that to them..

A dna 40 you can take for a swim but a dna 200, look at it the wrong way and it wants to go home, back to astabula ..

sure you got it already on your outher post but if you quickly cut through both poz and neg wiers at the same time you would have shorted and poped the fuse, you will have to check the fuse anyway as first step.

did you cut through both wires (live and neg) at the same time. if so you've poped the fuse.

I know you just said all the same but do you know for sure is the ribbon the same length, because a lot of folk, including myself would be happy for that screen ribbon to be shorter..

did you manage to build this mod, I would love to see a shot if possible,

That was exactly the first thing i noticed as soon as i started using it,one theme the same on all eight, thought there was somthing wrong and over writ it thinking it would go right. it is a bit old school win 95 format for todays standards, but very usable tool indeed bar frilly bits.

It's not so much the RTA build, itself, I haven't figured out, but my own mouth parts and breath control. Mouth-to-lung is an art form I haven't mastered. "Circular breathing," doubly so. Update: Regarding this useful "contribution" to the discussion, I refuse to "bump" this, now, completely hijacked and ruined thread, with a reply. I think the discussion I was trying to have, has reached its natural conclusion anyway, so no loss. If you're still monitoring this thread, you can put the popcorn away -- after this last, popcorn-worthy edit, of course. [/QUOTE] we aim to please......................

What like " whos next" or quote brad pitt in the film troy "is there no one els" is there no one else"

I got one working in the end but wasnt overly impressed with any better performance over ni200 for the hassle

Skineedog, are you using stainless i suffered thoes same issues and have read on hear to take your boost punch down to zero, i"ll try and find the thread and put a link in for ya..