black lace

Thanx for the tip i'll av a bash, am currently using, stealth NIFe30 in mine on a 1.5 mandrel 8 wraps, 430f+ 30+watts, no issues, its a hot wire, what size mandrel did you say? i know that sounds like a barmy statment "its a hot wire" it heats up very well on lower power.. theres a table of equivalents somewere, i'll post it up when i get a chance.

I like the NIFe30 as well, specialy simple twin coiling, it just works and works, and ya get a free magnet if you buy it from stealth. Lol

Its also good (if i may add, seeing that i aint had a bust up with anyone this weekend lol) to experiment with your preheat and punch settings while connected into the device monitor, you can realy fine tune your atty,, of course as the wicks and coils start getting old you may go back to it, but i find setting a rule of thumb value doesnt allways work for me.. for instance, without the computer, if ive previously, set to high and harsh,,,, my initial part of a draw on a set up, i can find i'm straight into heat and then a sudden drop and then back on heat,,, then looking on device monitor there are peaks all over the place, then having a mess with the settings, i can get it nice and smooth and noticably better vape.

new download and use-ability is awesome, thank you,

Ive had some :40mm dropped off this morning from stealth, looking foreward to having a bash with it, insidently theyve got higher guages, up to :60mm

Local hobby shop or fleabay, hobby king and turnygy pretty much dominate the planet,lol, you cant go wrong, just use a good solder and electrical flux.. wirers solder and flux should cost ya less than a tenner..

The turnigy silicon coated is also a tad thinner i believe, because the coating is moor resiliant, and most 510 connectors are spring loaded, so a little exess in the form of a cemicircle or half loop to allow for some movement, ,, would never be achievable with solid wire. with solid you would have to form each strand beffor soldering in, becsuse trying to manipulate once soldered would tear up the solder tabs on the board, solid looks the part in home build mech mods..like wooden boxes or old tobbacco tins.

The puff of smoke came from the componeny that burned out, it may have been burning up for several minits beffor you noticed it give out. If you go over it with a magnifiying glass you may find somthing melted. Your pics arnt clear enough for us. when i did mine i melted a small hole in one of the flat black components , and the strand of wire was a single piece of 16 guage resting on two of the connector leggs,,, i had also done a repaire to the 510. It was thiner than as a hair and no.longer than a 1mm doing repairs with the board insitue is always a risk of further problems, breaking a component while .... ect. Ect....

Im not saying youve done the same as i have done in the past, but i burnt a board out, it self fired after about 30 minuts standing unused, a small, cut strand of wire, that hadnt been cleaned away from when i built it, had lodged accross the connection leggs of a chip, and it burned the corner off the chip, the fuse never blew, but the board was destroyed.

Ok both of you thanx for that advice, i have a turngy gold sat in a draw and been reluctant to use it for wanting to stay on tech spec, because that too is also quite high, if the graphine are a very fast charge capable, i think we will all be changing over. Am on mobile so difficult but am sure the dimensions of the one linked to are the same as the li/po

Connan.. do the 3mm coils fit easy, left over space around sides of chimney ect?? Havnt got fisyical acsess to one, beffor purchase.

it aint a race to fit the new one, moor a marathon, soon as ya cut corners with these power boards sparks start flying, lol all the best wiv it..

Thought that was a week ago and somewhere els, Yes it was the tc i was refering to, for quality of vape i stay below the max ive set as allready said, if i de-selected it from showing i wouldnt know how the mod was prrforming, always each to his own, but for me,, vaping on the max with temp protection kicking in, is like riding a motorcycle or driving a car with a misfire, (cutting in and out) and if you where to dyno tune it- it would be calibrated to a moor steady flow, giving smoother performance,, but it aint so each to his own allso in answer to the leaving the preloaded tank attys on the shelf for a month or moor, eew groce, lol, i know a bloke who sucks sweets for a while and them puts them on his dashboard for anouther time, lmao,, and a few weeks ago an ol lady gave me some fudge that i thought was cheese,, then i noticed the sell by date was 2004, groce.

Quote...lol get a duplicate tank yer skinflint lol.[/QUOTE]lol well it may come to that. The 25mm VCMT would look nice next to my 30mm I just don't like my tanks sitting around and leaking quote.. i dont think they keep very well just sitting there waiting to go, & like you say when they leek,they do seem to selfe siyphone the whole lot, better to have the spare coiled and wicked & then final bung it together, when needed.

They look the muts but our data sheet says max constant 30c and max burst 60c:: those are double. At 60/120, im not that technical and hear that the board will take what it needs, but max 60c for three seconds, with thoes its having a minimum of 60c rammed down its throat from the very start.

Yeh i know what you mean i didnt realy phrase it very well, moor ramp up to just below threshhold temp but not reaching it because of controled airflow, wattage, coil size juice flow ect. even though acording to the device monitor i do peak past it, but only so briefly temp protect doesnt flash up on mod screen, so i persume it hasnt been activated.

If you do a search for. Custom screen generator. By mikla. Its a very good program.

Create a sub file in your documents call it what you like. I call mine evolv stuff. Then save everything to that, then when Loading from escribe select your subfolder, open it, find your thing, click on it to highlight it and select save, , dont forget in escribe, tools bar upload to device and also disconnect. also look in the ""show off your custom screens thread. There is a very usfull program downloadable from there, very kindly donated..

it only takes a split second press on the firing button to take a cold reading without heating the coil, so just do that to both mods first thing in the morning when its cold, then when you do swap it over just select "no" when prompted new coil yes or no..

Bad luck, ,, in the past ive forgot to lift the clip and pushed the screen tab in and the clip pops up, keep the broken bit so you know where your at mext time..

lol get a duplicate tank yer skinflint lol.

Soulseek... it depends how you vape, your vaping on the set temp, (to what your saying) i vape on the ramp up and never get to the temp limit ive set.

There are a few of those builds to look at in the lets see your 200's threads, but i think it is the turnigy 2200 sits well with the board mounted comfortably.

Oh well fair play, better luck wiv the next one..

Hope you get a new one sorted and up and running realy quick. Picture perfect board from my mobile anyway. Spose its to late to ask did you bridge across the blown fuse and find any life.