black lace

Possible but I wouldnt put me money on it because it was working fine, and thoes pins are from one side to the other, may very well be an aditional problem now its been desterbed, Shouldnt the mod fire if thoes four connections are cliped, thing is for where that is it would burn up regardless of the fireing switch, if shorting. Ive got my money on the screen shorting out, because i broke one on a build and saw a simular apearing issue with the battery indicator, but i knew what it was because it was on the bench infront of me and i heard it crack when i put a mini clamp on it to glue it to the inside of a mod,,

Its allways the tinkering that can cause other problems. How brave are you to disconnect the screen ,lol, Because you have prety much exauhsted around the battery and found no issue, i would look at your screen ribbon for cracks or even a craked screen or tight fold at edge of glass, and the reason you have an incorrect battery simbol, and then switches off is because your screen is shorting, and some pixels simply arnt being filled, eg lightning strike through battery.. a dna200 will work without a screen connected, you have to set up your settings in escribe, Not sure if putting it in stealth mode will have the same effect, eg, trying to stop power going in and shorting it... i would put my money on that.. connect to escribe, put it in stealth mode, and have a bash...its just going to be the five clicks locked unlocked might booger things up, with power to screen. all the best..

It would be helpful if the op gave moor information, eg, ive had it since i joined in november, it was working fine but now it aint, and it says the batteries knackered.. Or eg, i got this off a mate, i dont think it will take much to get it running, has anyone local got a battery i can try beffor i condem it.. (If he didnt have escribe to look at, he would try anouther battery without question) (its the most logical thing to do)

If your on about declaring goods in and out you need the recipts and keep them at easy acsess, then when you book in they will tell you what to do, they can be heavy handed on the getting in bit, always have been both sides of the pond..

Yeh but yours is working bill , lol his is playing peek a boo.. lamo

If your after the same size most people go for the turnigy 950mah 25c/50c so you get the extra '50' cant post a pic or link at the moment cuz am on mobile.. will update later if needed..

Oh, i dont hard wire mine, think im using xt30s at the moment, but if i was stuck for space i would stanley knife the connectors out the xt30/ xt60 and just sleve them over with shrink wrap tube on final connection.. ""one spark its fooked mate"" All the best..

Never heard of anyone say theyve been sent a duff battery beffor, evolv where very careful choosing that brand, what a pisser,,,, asuming you havnt got fluxed up jst conections, (poor contacts) i would try running it flat, connect it to a bulb or somthing, then see if it charges equaly, batteries are strange creatures, the moor they work the better they perform..

If you emailed them beffor you got your ticket, (that is the usual protocol because each one has a refrence number), dont know how you say no responce to your ticket, you dont get one till youve spoken to them,,, you email evolv with your problem, if it cant be advised and repaired by email, and they also know common issues, they email you a ticket with a refrence number, you print it off and fill it in, then put that in the package with your recipt and send it to them if your told to.. i would email them again and they should be able to trak it like that, and advise, i dont think you just send in blind tickets. i had a tripple cell do simillar, no battery indicating atall, i think the board had to be replaced. have you been turned down by the people you bought it off?

Thats what i tried to get accross at #3, i can only think that if he wants the mod to have a few junctions coming off it to different satelite attys, to be used one at a time, hes over looking the, board/atty temperature stabalisation, on switchover, one of my girls is on about an eshisha, hubbly bubbly type thing, not sure how one would use a dna200 to power it though, but it may be a root. would be better time spent building moor mods..

Isnt it a bit mental because the 510 and fire button needs to be on some kind of handle substantial enough to support the atty, and hold to the cable. Eg, a hammond 1590A is a small box fitting the hand, and will house the lot, 950mah tripple lipo, plug a usb cable to it with power to the usb, from a boxed power supply. Coming off a lunch size box with a heavy cable covered in say braided hose ect will look like somthing an ailien might ram up your backside.. its rather sad someones got the time to do a drawing an all that, unless there sitting on the works toilet..

Ive had small pakages, just boards get back to the uk, takes a few weeks but never gone missing..

I can asure you that if it gets lost in the post there is absolutly nothing to worry about, it doesnt matter because it didnt work anyway..hows that??

Think performance of premade coils also comes down to the viscosity of the juice, like the run of the mill 70/30 pg/vg will wick and flow a lot quiker than my 80/20 vg/pg, these things often dont get mentioned and play a massive part. If i was handed an atty with a premade coil in it i would automaticaly drop a few drips down the spout without even trying it first, Joe ky, hope yer misses feels better soon, you can tell her that people from all over the world are wishing her all the best...

So whats that then $500 worth of tc devices. That wont work your crown, on tc,,, i did say theyre not the best...

I can see where your coming from with confident with your gear and satisfied with your vape ect, But this time next year your last sentence may aplie to what your using now, lol, ive got so much kayfun 3:1 and russian you wouldnt believe and all in little bags from manufacture as unasembled spares rather than bought off the shelf as compleat attys, very simple and reliable very few parts, so less resistance loss or poor conectivity, but you have to upgrade the screws. (So yeh eating my words a bit, but i am maintaining a few other folk so simple means less headach) be honest, if you break the hinge on a mad hatter or strip a post screw, bearing in mind you have two, will you replace it?

dont forget to answer vb. i aint got a uwell crown, i use an early kayfun customised for mouth to lung and an aromatiser and a dripper mutation x and a single coil lemo 2 customised, it can only ever be what suits you its your vape ect, but i wouldnt recomend buying three of the same because this scene is so fast moving, attys are coming out all the time, when i upgrade i have to make a special effort to blow the dust off and use last few months back incarnation, ive allready a draw full of stainless knives and forks, ive now a shelf of knife and fork metal attys, as well, lol, all the best to ya....

Yes me to.. if it aint bang on, the temp just goes through the roof, if you like custard that tasts of mackrel its the way foreward, lol.. aromatizer type rdta tanks are about the best design at the moment and gearbest.com are a good place to find a bargain if you dont mind waiting for delivery..

There are a lot of very nice ones about but the base connections let them down, (build deck or screw in coils onto a very poor reaching center pin) unless you have a "mod" with a fixed or screw type center pin (so you can screw down onto and get some pressure) Ni200 is a lot moor forgiving than the stainless, and the pre built coils, the wire is to thin and there usualy so tightly wicked that the juice flow is poor, if you reduce the wicking cotton for better flow, the thin wire will intermitantly distort. I think they came out a bit late in the game, just about ok with ni200 28/29 guage on the build deck if you can maintain a connection, and also as a starter kit as a mod and atty at a bargain price...................... ... everything i say is my veiw only, i am not an advocate of evolv... if you wish to sue me....be warned .. your not big enough..

Uwell crown tank and build deck, or replaceable screw in coils, not the best of attys for pressision measurement and reliability,,, stainless steel in that,, not a fan, not a fan, oh no,....cant put it any moor mildly, someone had to tell ya...

The op if he hasnt allready got one can refer to an ohm's law calculator and there are a few including the just named ( ohm's law calculator) can be downloaded as a mobile phone app. the 0:65ohm/55watt shows just a touch below 6v, good little tools for nothing... """";;ya dont get much fa nothing these days lad""::

Pretty much would cause the above, how about.. distroted inner switch componants, that are not much moor than tiny slithers of silver paper..either through wear or impact..

The cap end at bottom of the 510, If you just back it off a 1/4 turn it will work better, the center pin will travell moor freely and also a little lower. if your worried that it will unscrew itself connecting and disconnecting attys, just put a blob of epoxi glue on it, if your 510s havent got back nuts and are just press fit, sorry to tell you they are shitt and will eventualy work loose, you can upgrade to all manner of bolt thtough 510 connectors but it aint a simple job..

Unfortunatly they got used up very fast. Lol.. seriously though for a few seconds. 1.2.3.. there thats better... No realy, ive seen a few of thoes with a wiered up button conversion, theyve looked bit of a bodge job, but still a repair, what i would do, like i said earlier i would strip the old one out, and get one of the little domed tactile buttons, tape it in place of, and pack it from behind, centred up and then just infill around with some araldite, then just tidy it up with a dab of black or silver paint, (no drilling or fileing involved)

Allthough a little different i sent some from the UK and looking at the traking they stayed in a Chicargo sorting office for three weeks, so it wasnt entirly down to evolv..but it does your head in..7/8 weeks.