black lace

""Ang on i'll get me screwdriver!!""

Removing and replacing a battery doesnt hard reboot anything from dna30 up, you have to connect it to escribe to do that. OP, you dont say what atomiser your using and on what mod, or is it with all attys youve tried, because if it where me i would hope it was a bad coil connection at atomiser on that one off atty, if its happening on all attys i would first look for poor wires and connections from board to 510..

lol, if not a joke, we've only recently had one big one that quietened everyone down, what have you in mind?

the elephant man can, lol

evolv do a 510,, http://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-510-connector/

Possibly you may have had other bits of debrie floating about and shorting the old board itselfe.. shorting at the 510 wont blow your fuse, we are all about shorting at the 510,,, lol,, All the best with the new one..

Yes in short if you dont look after it you will break it. Hardly rocket science. How much moor difficult can one make charging a mod.

Cant help with the wismec i havnt taken one to bits yet, but on an investigative note, different mods same problems, You would have to look at what are they all coming into contact with, from attys to chargers, batteries and even enviroment, water, electro magnetic fields ect even mod bullying, (someones being nasty to it while your not around) lamo

Reply to 15:: It is each to their own i agree, i would recomend a mobile phone charger an original samsung ect ect, not a cheap replacement one, put the whole mod in the kevlar bag, remember its only a short burst discharge battery mod and not a continuas discharge remote car, copter, plane. Back to the original post start, evolve dont comercialy build mods at the moment, only the board, its your mods failing and shorting the board blowing the fuse, the board is tested thousands of times over by evolv and its users every day, i think your issues are self inflicted, removing and replacing the lipo, and for what your saying you wouldnt have needed to have fitted an extra jst extension lead. On a lighter note, if i try and put my socks on while standing up and am hopping about struggling and go head first down the stairs, do i blame the socks..lol

OK.. why??? like what is the point? Why dont you just charge it through the onboard usb?

See on paragraph 3 your continuasly opening the box, to charge the lipo in your hammmond builds, if you didnt have a seperate jst spurred off the board for charging, you would have been continuasly disconnecting, connecting and tugging at the tinny little wires, i wouldnt have given them much time beffor breaking loose and shorting. Also every mod ive had that has auto fired has had a battery short, a posertive gone to ground, i dont believe you will loose warrantie for fitting a fuse because you can buy them from evolv, ..

After ive built mine the back is secured shut and it stays shut so no risk of anything falling in and shorting the board out, i would think its mathermaticly impossible to have four boards one after anouther suddenly decide to self destruct and if ime wrong i think youve definatly lowerd the odds for the rest of us. No disrespect to you or anything but i build mods for a few people besides myselfe and its the same one person that comes back for repairs time and time again..

oh ok, lol, hope you get it working, but as a reminder, on mine in the g box, worked fine until I put the lid on, the beveld edge of the lid pressed against the down button, I can see by the pic yours is built the other way around so would be your up button. if the buttons are snagging you'll have problems.

oh good grief lol, am still trying to work out what rubbing alcohol is, sounds like something ya found in one of ya grannies draws, lamo,,,,,,,,,,

oh

Sorry might have been the way you put it. But to confirm.... Disasembly.. First thing you should do is disconnect the power. on re assembly.. last thing you should do is connect power... lol..

Quoting on 8 & 10 """" building your own is a learning curve, you made some mistakes that you wont make again, you say youve orderd somthing and your going to convert the 510, so your confident enough, personly my experiance is modifiying something already assembled is moor time consuming than a straight foreward build, ive built all my own for the simple reason and simular to you, theres not much out there that fits my requirerments.. all the best to ya..

I agree entierly, for the price of a comercial mod you can buy two dna 200 boards, if you have the practical ability to build and fit a coil, you can build a couple of mods..

Ive got my money on somthing shorting, either crap solder and wireing or s snagged button. The only thing that springs to mind then if your confident about clean solderd joints is are the buttons running free, not snagging, you can definatly feel them traveling down and clicking and then returning with about a mill of travell. The lid on the 1590 needs the bevel edge fileing out level with the button or it will press on it,,, Either way your going to have to get it to bits and stick your nose in its guts now that youve proved theres nothing wrong with the software.

Can you put a better picture up of your soldering? If It fires when you press up down buttons..that isnt realy an autofire, it sounds like youve got solder all over your up, down and fire tabs- at the board..

There are eight presets for you to configure however you wish, either simply by mod in hand or in a moor advanced manner connected into escribe, then you also have three simple wire type options or csv files, titanium, stainless steel, and ni200 pre set, but you can load as many as you wish into thr dna200 memory and as advanced as you wish via programs such as steam engine wire wizzard, and then intergrate them into your presets, you can also program one preset to be temp dominant and anouther to be wattage dominant,,

sorry to put my two penneth worth in but.. not the best of attys for the money you pay, bottom center pin doesn't make a sound contact with whatever you screw into or onto it, (replacement coil or coil deck base doesn't meet the top of that center pin very well) -- (if your connections are not solid you may get temp protect flashing up before any vapour) pull the centre pin out put a blob of solder on the top of it put it back in then when you screw in your build deck you can see you have a solid connection because the centre pin will get pushed .5mm out the bottom of the atty. you will never get a sound reading until you have established a sound consistent connection. I also own two sub tanks and also two lemo v2, and had to lengthen the bottom pins from new straight out the box before even bothering to put near a mod, also the pre-built coils ive seen are so tightly wicked they don't perform very well with high vg juice, no flow, good for supporting hair thin wire from distorting, but nothing els..

I don't know if this is any help, but I have had difficulty loading new profiles through my normal way of :- 1, selecting the mod tab in escribe 2, select load csv it wont have it,, what i'm doing is 1, select materials tab from escribe 2, select the little file icon, (open material) 3, load my csv file from there,

yeh, mine did that so i just right clicked on the warning and selected install anyway..

Ok, chears, i only use stealth for my wire at the moment.. nuff said, lol.