dwcraig1

I certainly hope so, pick one that has a for real CDR of at least 20 amps.......or higher. http://evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna75.pdf

Losing charge while sitting, check for flux on balance connections. (or any where else)

That would be like trying to put 16 oz in a 12 oz bottle, even if you could squeeze it in there it would fit really tight with no room for swelling...not good.

To me #6 - 11 on the list are candidates for the Hana 200

My laptop has 3 usb ports, one is integrated with an eSATA port. With a power only cable I got .5 amp with one, .8 amp with the other and 1 amp from the one that's integrated. With a data cable it's .5 max on all three. Oh, I checked the cable using a 1 amp wall wart and it can due 1 amp OK.

I found this much, /topic/68472-topic/?do=findComment&comment=915836

Being in the US certainly makes it easier to send it to Evolv than from other places. I believe it has a 1 year warranty. A DNA75 has the reverse polarity built in to the board ...if 75 watts will do you. http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

And it fits inside the Lavabox?

Just to add to the above ^^^ When the mod sees a data path the max amperage is 500 ma.

Making it easier for future use. SMY_SDNA75_Stock_settings.ecig

Here's a good place to find info on them, just keep in mind that they are not 35 amp CDR and most likely 20 amp batteries. They should work just fine with in their limits. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/efest-purple-35a-3000mah-18650-bench-test-results-only-a-20a-battery-equal-to-hg2-and-30q-though.711203/

That would amount to a work around fix, if it's acually .12 ohm there is something wrong.

The mod resistance is far from the expected setting. Might have a bad solder joint on the 510. Is the 510 center pin on the mod at normal height, not stuck down?

If your asking how to change it to .CSV here: open file in notepad, select "save as" from drop down menu. Add .CSV to file name. Save as "all files". Load to Escribe and upload to device.

How is is soldered on, right to the 510 body or washer with solder tab?

Your good on that I'd say.

If you can return it that sounds best.

Touching ground would cause lower ohms not higher. I doubt if the wire inside is broken but it's possible. Perhaps the "twist" of the wire is keeping the 510 from moving easily. Are you able to grab the 510 pin/wire and untwist and have it loop on the other side. It looks like maybe an atties 510 screw dug into your 510 socket's 510 and twisted it that way. Can it be untwisted?

As long as the strands of the wire inside aren't cut and it's not shorting (or not about to short) that shouldn't matter. So if just a break in the insulation and isn't going to contact anything is OK, remember it moves slightly. Now is it touching anything, it appears that it may be?

Post a screen of it firing coil with the correct material selected. Be sure to tick the cold and live ohms, power, temperature set. You might try using atomizer analyzer checking that the ohms is stable, screw atty in and loosen just slightly, tighten,loosen slightly, jiggle ,tighten.....are you getting near the same ohms or is the readings going wild?

That should be fine, 24 gauge, equal lengths if possible. This is showing charger setup but give the proper wiring for the board as well. Looking at the JST, from left to right 3, 2, 1, gnd

Does it say it can't or advises against it?

Great news, glad you got it sorted

^^^ I agree, wonky 510 something

You might try re-flashing the firmware , probably a long shot but can't hurt to try, read here: /topic/66786-topic/?do=findComment&comment=900619