dwcraig1

It looks to me that the battery is no good. Cells 1 & 3 show excessive sag under load.

Being the board has a hardware cutoff of 2.85 because it's designed for a LiPo. LiPo has mah rated between 3 volts ant 4.2 volts. A IMR round cell has it's mah rated between 2.5 volts and 4.2 volts. So with a 200/250 board the capacity between 2.5 and 2.85 volts isn't able to be used. What I do is subtract about 12% for what the calculator comes up with when using round cells. It's much easier on the cells to not use them to their lowest point.

If it were mine I'd use 19.5 wh and soft cell cutoff of 2.85 v

My first atty (Velocity) is a good candidate for checking but my 2nd one was a Merlin. The Merlin very well may have needed a good cleaning.

Call me skeptical, I tried on my SMY SDNA75 which tests out to 0.002 ohm with tool. With an atty with 0.07 resistance it came out to 0.002 -0.003 with above method. But with an atty with a higher resistance (0.58 ohms) I got something around 0.008 ohms. Of coarse there's always the possibility that I didn't do it correctly....these things happen here on occasion (many)

Karloz spike.......LOL Gone but not forgotten

Well here is what's going on, with all the 250 boards and all the 200 boards with 1.2 SP? software Atomizer Analyzer will not read below 0.007 ohms. So if it displays down to .007 then throws up a "?" it's .007 ohms or less. On the earlier firmware it wouldn't read below 0.002 ohms.

Early on I put heavy strand of copper through the posts of my Velocity, reading was 0.02 ohms. Using and old cartomizer or 510 adapter with it's end soldered together works well.

Just in case you need more ideas they can be found here: /topic/65540-topic/

Did you try it, the numbers mean nothing as far as what the temp really is. 275 -280 C should do it.

Try taking your temp way higher, it's by no means accurate when used this way

The bad: When ever one of the cells is reading higher than 4.2 volts it's time for a new board. You will have to decide how /who will take care of it. For sure Evolv will send you a new board through the ticket system, they may let you send the entire mod (don't know) but try Lost Vape 1st.

Most likely a grounding problem (lack of) at the board mounting screws and/or 510

It's almost time to make another 500 ml bottle, That will be the 9th one. Old Habits die hard.

As long as the other wire (s) is SS316 or Kanthal/Nichrome you should be fine using the same setting. But If you have say two strands of SS316 wrapped with another TC wire (eg. Ti) then a different CSV is needed.

LiFePO4 isn't an option to use unless that's the type of battery that you have, I'm afraid you will just have to make due nwith the Li-Po selection. I set mine to 2.9 on 200/250 with round cells.

Here's a recent thread with similar probem: /topic/65896-topic/

I've seen it too many times (here)

OK, for sure power isn't getting from the cells to the board. Could be poor cells (probably not), bad solder joint on B+ or B- or at battery sled(lo or at battery sled. But most likely battery contacts to cell, make sure they have as square contact as possible and tight against cell.

I'm expecting this to be another situation where the battery contacts are not making good connection to the cells.

What is the voltage of the cells when not firing?

The only setting on that page that can have anything to do with your problem is set correctly to 133 watts. We need to see it firing in Device Monitor with the two cell ticked. Use the stop button in the right lower corner once you get it then move your mouse over the sagged voltage points to show the voltages (if not showing)

Also are you using it in TC or power mode?

Here's an example of where I would start looking. In EScribe/Device Monitor tick the two cells and not what the voltage sag is. My batteries in this example were 3.68 unloaded and when fired drop to near the soft cell cutoff. Had they dropped below the set soft cell cut off the power would have dropped. Here's my example: So take a look at yours and let us know, post it if possible.

The mounting points (board to case) does provide heat transfer. Of coarse with a plastic case that's not happening. The board once the sled is removed the board should be held in place by one screw that sort of hides under the 510's ground wire. On some DNA75 mods the mounting screws can provide ground for one or both the battery connection and 510 so only two or three wires are used to build it. Oh, BTW..great news