Wayneo

2 questions What were you doing just before it stopped working? Did you do/try a 'Restore Defaults'? Welcome

So are those your actual values you are using?

Yes, just stays there as 0.005, no more ?. I noticed the change (stopped working) with my 200's from 1.2 SP3, FDA deadline. IIRC, you limited the max peak and sustained current at 24A, and identified as '-Other changes'. No comments about anything else?

You are correct, sir! But nowhere in this post was the 6.0 volt limitation ever mentioned. Perhaps it was meant for a different thread? And welcome

@James, with the solid copper 510 tool, with multiple 200's using the last 2016/02/23 firmware and escribe 1.0.39 or 42, I was getting down to .002 on a couple mods. Later firmware and escribe was down to ~.006 before a ? mark. The last i checked (if you can tell I'm a mod res natzi) it would get to .005 and stay there, but testing on the prior versions would still get my 11 DNAs .002 and higher. The 75 non color (when tested) managed to show lower values. You said "Always make sure the Mod Resistance you have is conservative", they (users and quality manufacturer's) will think .005 is accurate. I don't own a C version. On my BilletBox (only DNA60) it was set at .0004, and no way to validate that or thermal characteristics (even though I only need board temp to room temp offset) as there's no USB port. Telling me another way is more useful, than an easy 'just use the defaults'. I had a DNA250 custom built, with the shortest, biggest, fattest wires possible for every connection with a shitty Varitube v2 (which is now being replaced) and got .003 using an alternative method. I'm no Electrical Engineer, but if a '0' value is the default, couldn't you put Mod Res calculation on the Manufacturer Mod tab, and perhaps disable the fire button, allowing us to use the solid copper tool or something? A simple yes or no would suffice. A nice feature would also allow one to Save "Mod" parameters, allowing us to load default settings across the slew, then load individual Mod parameters. Mod Res setting IMHO is a 'premium feature' parameter from the Temperature vaping pioneer company.

They're the experts, take them up on their replacement offer. A CSV will definitely not fix a battery drain issue.

True words. Even here with DNA devices, knowing that we can no longer get an accurate Mod Resistance value from Atomizer Analyzer as we know it. But we do get COLOR screens ........yes!!!.

I can't see it. Maybe as a niche product. There's only 1 standard really, being the 510 connector. From that we get the resistance of any coil/atty combination. I think it's gotta be done through software, a la Hohmtech. Just my thoughts. Think of interchangeability consumer choice.

Yup Yup Yup to ya's. @awsum140 Last week I was gifted 6@30 foot spools of Temco Ti01, and 1 box of NiFe70. This stuff just doesn't have the market, but Gold to me. Ni200 is considered commercially pure @ 99.6% Nickel and was used as the material by Evolv on the DNA40's. Also used by Steam-engine as their reference material. Ti01 is ~99.5%

Much easier for sure. But SS, IMHO has become the defacto standard for many, due to safety fear mongering. I posted a a table below showing composition for each SS

@denniz Just to add slightly .... If you look at the composition off what makes SS304 304, or SS316 316, the specs clearly show both minimums and maximums for each wire type designation. If one batch were to follow all the minimums/maximums/average it will all throw off accurate TCR. Not disagreeing with your 120 ........ just saying. I'm with @awsum140 .... every word.

Enjoy your mod. You're welcome

Efests - rewraps. Running Battery Analyzer on your cells will be accurate for curve and Wh's.

Li Po, if 18650's. I have only heard of 1 person inquiring about LiFePo's. CSC 2.75 or higher, wherever you feel comfortable. Wh Capacity should be written on your cells, or use the built in calculator. Or search for your battery type curve and someone will have stated the watt hours they got/use.

Mod Tab. Battery section. Change cells from 3 to 2. Adjust Watt hours appropriately. For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture

I have only used Isopropyl alcohol, vinegar, or windex

I don't own a Therion, but for squonkers there are 2 types of connections. One 510 pin (in the mod) is spring loaded, so various rda's will push on it and make a sealed connection to help prevent leakage. The other you need to adjust the 510 in the mod and rise/lower for each different rda to ensure a sealed connection. Bit of maintenance keeping everything clean is essential. Isopropyl alcohol and QTips are your friend. Compressors work too, but might not totally clean that VG.

If you remove the squonk bottle and the battery is there eliquid inside the box itself?

Good luck. Come back and let us know how it works out, but before sending it in, do a file -> 'save as' to retain a copy of your settings just in case. Post a pic of your mod in the picture thread.

Good, so not mod related. Ask at a local vape shop for modders. The modder should be able to diagnose and repair. Similar to your situation, my 2 thick battery cables are hardwired. When it's time to replace it, I'll decide whether to put a connector in the path by cutting the wires already there. Those are 12awg cables and can't be easily used with an XT30 connector (small)

When you said this. It could be more than just the battery if the connections are solid.

Yeah, so you have a few options. The RC hobby guys are familiar with Lipo's and tight soldering. They might see an issue with the sollder joints/wire. Your battery you can find at hobbyking. You could see if they're willing to to replace it for you, but it's obviously more work than just plugging in 2 connectors. It'll take them more time to clean up what's there, than the new soldering required. It looked to be a tight fit so maybe there was no room for connectors, blah blah blah. For a builder to do it, you could check/ask at your local vape store. Do you remember what the nonsense message was? All I've said was how to replace the battery.

See those thinner wires (Black/white/blue) are they plugged into the board in between the thick red and black coming from the battery? You might be able to lift out the battery carefully which has either been soldered directly to the board or there will be a connector Looking carefully, he appears to have cutoff the connectors and wired directly to the board, due to space.

For TC, the core wire(s) need to be TC capable for it to work ..... with any wrap. I believe you described kanthal cores which will not work.

I believe so as well. Been there done that. LOL. The balance connector is usually a small connector coming from the battery and usually attaches to the board/chip down by the USB port (on the opposite side of the USB plug)