Wayneo

From your description you potentially have 2 different problems. Lines on your dimming screen and fire button no longer working. The screens are very delicate and are easy to damage if mishandled by you or the builder. The fire button is an external button (not the one on the board itself). It could be just a soldered wire that has come undone or the button itself, or lastly the board itself. You could dismantle the mod and push the on board button to see if it works, but I would not suggest that due to the delicate screens (but yours already appears on the way out) Due to the above it's hard to come to the conclusion that the board is defective. You should reach out to the place of purchase if you still have a warranty, or Jai's builder for service. Keep us informed on what you decide to do, and what they say.

I've never seen a connector like that before. If the larger size fits, and you are confident in your soldering and diagram, then yes, use the larger cells.

It looks to me that the 2 outer connector holes are your battery positive and negative, with the inner 4 the balancing wires. So it's all in one. Obviously replacing it with the battery that has the same connector would be the easiest option. Only you know your skill level.

The DNA 200 connects to the cell taps on the battery pack with a four position JST-XH connector. The balance connector is made by JST and is part number B4B-XH-A. Ensure that the battery to be used has a matching XH series connector. If it does not, procure an appropriate connector for the board or battery pack. LiPo's swell. The original battery dimensions usually dictate the mod dimensions. I would not purchase a replacement with a bigger dimension without serious consideration. LHV/LiHV (High voltage LiPo's that charge to 4.35V will also work) Many battery positive and negative connectors might come with an XT30 connector which looks smaller than that Tamiya connector. The thinnest would be a bullet connector, or even directly soldered directly to the board.

Open a Help Desk ticket and report it. ⬇️ Link in my signature line. ⬇️

That top picture is the evolv default landscape theme. You can dumb it down using 'Theme Designer' all you want and make it look exactly like the old. Most users want more features/options available on the mod, not less.

Not on the 80C, and probably not in a future update. It would require chipset updates.

@Truzty It's hard to believe you have a 10 year old spool of UD wire

In escribe, if you hover over many/most fields you will find a quick definition. You cannot harm your mod or void the warranty. It might operate a little wonky but no harm. Some, like the original of that one tries to be uber clever but it has 2 issues which you might not notice. It uses 'user defined' toggles which do not get wiped out when you install another theme, AND the logic is flawed when using TC/Replay. There is a find and fix theme written by CMK that identifies toggles used. Under the 'mod' tab is where you need to be most careful. 'Device Monitor' (if you enable/click) on relevant parameters shows you live how your mod is operating. Garbage.

If you're wearing polarized sunglasses you'd have to turn the mod sideways outdoors, but certainly should be visible in a dark environment. Or perhaps a 'cleaner' theme for better clarity. The theme I use has no 'wallpaper' so it's solid black background. Have yourself a good Sunday also.

On my mods I can notice a slight change between 5 and 10. Mine are not Dovpo. Also, on mine there is nothing extra covering (over) the screen. If the front screen area is perfectly flush with the remaining body there might be a darkened cover over top. All four buttons on the mod are exactly the same on a bare board. Welcome 👋

Success best practices. Ni200, Ti, SSxxx, NiFe or any TC capable material (wire) as your core wire

NO. The USB port is lower on the 100C. Open a Help Desk ticket and tell them these details. They might have a base. Failing that I have seen a 3D printed inner part that you need. Don't remember where, just a public site. Link in my signature line.

@Jooki Looks like you got lucky with your San AIO and they updated it after the issues identified here (pretty much the same as with your Parsons).

Describe your coil like he did. Looks like Kanthal to me.

That post is now hidden. What's wrong with the door?

Here you go, in 2 screenshots. 1st one opens up battery details, 2nd maximize puffs (4.20V) or Recharges (4.1V). Followed by Upload settings to device.

I can see them all charged up in your first pic. In your 2nd you see cell 1 is 4 hundredths of a volt lower than cell 2 and 3. I'd say that's fine for that battery. Nothing new required. Earlier I said this and yours charged to 4.2V. From evolv's testing and mooch, by setting the charge limit to 4.1V you can save on battery life. You might want to make that change when you get a new battery, or I can explain now. Enjoy your mod, the search bar works, and now you know where we are.

Here you go, full specs already. IT IS a 1S1P 850mAh battery. Not even Monday yet.

Dude as 1 of 2 moderators here, yes I post a lot. Now that you have your cricket in hand, just chill. 🤣

No, doesn't prove a thing. I'll ask Jacob.

Dude, 2 digits a decimal and 1 last digit would be quicker than your post.

Dude send me a PM with the link, or every lipo spec I have ever seen shows a voltage, just tell me that. Edit: And all Lipo's eventually swell, so you need to take that into account.

Alrighty then. What are the specs of your working replacement? Link would be even better. 😃

What makes you believe it's a single cell? Can you see any markings on yours or did Evolv say so? I don't own one but thought it was a 3 cell LiPo.