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Dna 250C ohms readings wonky.


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So i just got a newly finished 4s lipo box mod with a dna 250C chip in it.  when i put an rta on it it reads the coils at 0.37 ohms. wich is wrong. i know for a fact they are 0.22 

when i go into the diagnostics menu on my mod and fire the mod there the ohms read out 0.26 which is much closer to the truth.  so im wondering can i use the ohm readings in the diagnostic screen for the front screen in wattage mode by editing the theme in escribe ? or is there a way i can get the ohm reading to just be accurate to begin with?

Thanks for any help you can offer me.

0.37.jpg

diag.jpg

0.26.jpg

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Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. If you use atomizer analyzer in escribe it will show that. The ohms should be steady with very little fluctuation. Like maybe 1 or 2 milliohms.

 Put another atty or coil, ideally simple single coil and see if that’s steady. If it’s not you need to look at your mod build connections (grounding and 510) all 4 of them 👍

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19 minutes ago, Wayneo said:

Are you sure it’s nichrome?

 Looking at your diagnostics picture I can’t believe I’m seeing any value for temp. Yours shows 232C. 

Yes, i made the coils myself. using nothing but nichrome.  I re soldered all the connections, except for the grounding wire for the 510, as i dont have a 510 tightening tool at hand. but im getting one in the mail from the uk soon hopefully. so i  can open it up and re solder it and tighten it firmly again. until then ill just use my other mods. bummer. paid 400 dollars for a mod, and cant even use it. thanks for all the help tho. oh and i did use 3 different attys, one was single coil. and still it showed the same wrong ohms. they all did. 

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Is this your first DNA Color mod?
Can you post a printscreen of 'Atomizer Analyzer' also a printscreen of escribe with the profile you're using. And a third printscreen of 'Device Monitor' while firing, with cold ohms and live ohms checked.

1 hour ago, David B. said:

..........oh and i did use 3 different attys, one was single coil. and still it showed the same wrong ohms. they all did.

Was that a simple single wire?

Each/every time you changed the atty, did you measure the Ω before firing the coil? 

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Ситуация просто смешна, это разные параметры на разных экранах, на первом экране - горячее сопротивление, на последнем экране - холодное (возможно так же при очень заниженной комнатной температуре)

Все это исправляется в Theme designer

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7 hours ago, zark said:

Ситуация просто смешна, это разные параметры на разных экранах, на первом экране - горячее сопротивление, на последнем экране - холодное (возможно так же при очень заниженной комнатной температуре)

Все это исправляется в Theme designer

Ok. как это исправлено в дизайнере экрана?

Ok. kak eto ispravleno v dizaynere ekrana?

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14 часа назад, David B. сказал:

Ok. как это исправлено в дизайнере экрана?

Ok. kak eto ispravleno v dizaynere ekrana?

Пишите на родном языке. 

Очень трудно и долго объяснить роботу в Theme designer, мы говорим на разных языках через переводчик, но 

необходимо открыть Вашу теме в дизайнере

найти экраны на которых Вы хотите исправить настройки, найти соответствующие поля и сравнить их, тогда Вам станет понятно почему мод дает разные показания

Мой совет попробуйте тему другого автора с хорошей репутацией

Печать.jpg

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Yeah si now i have a single 0.22 ohm alien coil in the mod, its reading the wrong ass ohms, as you can see in atomizer analyzer. But live ohms is correct. does this matter? is it stil "working" correctly or is there any danger to me or my mod or both? all i want to know is if i can stil use it? or is it vital that i get it fixed?

Screenshot (53).png

Screenshot (54).png

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I just discharged one of my 4s lipos on using my lipo charger, got it to 40% and tried doing the case temp calibration. and noticed the usb is not steady at 0.000 amps but is charging slightly between 0.001-0.009 wich is heating up the board and runing the calibration.  This was the worst buy ever. 

Edited by David B.
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1 milliamp at a nominal 4.1 volts is 4 milliwatts.  Not exactly heating your mod to any measurable degree.

 

Stop blaming the board.  You apparently have a bad connection between the board and the 510 or a bad 510 connector.  Start looking at that for a bad solder joint on the board, the ground lug not being tight enough or a bad solder joint there, or a weak center pin or a bad solder joint there.  Given that your problem is occurring with multiple, different, atomizers the problem is, more than likely, a bad connection to the atomizer itself and not a problem with the board.  The board only "knows" what it "sees" and it isn't seeing a solid, good, connection.  I have, and many, many people have, multiple 250Cs and have no problems with incorrect resistance readings.  I'm not saying it's impossible but I am saying it's extremely unlikely.

 

What gauge wire did you use between the board and the 510?  Is it silicon insulated wire?  I believe 14 gauge is the recommended gauge.

Edited by awsum140
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17 часов назад, David B. сказал:

But live ohms is correct

Я возможно не все правильно понял из перевода но

live ohms= 0,223 Ом, при этом cold ohms= 0,315 Ом, мне кажется, что это либо бред, либо Вы используете разогретую катушку при замере cold ohms (я не думаю, что Вы меняете показания cold ohms вручную, возможно Вы прогреваете атомизатор при замене или при фиксации данных), возможно Вы используете некорректный TCR, либо у Вас очень принудительно сильно занижена комнатная температура.

Я более склонен к тому, что у Вас есть проблема с плохой проводкой либо плохой контакт.

Печать.jpg

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I have personally re soldered all the connection points, the only thing i havent done yet so far is re tighten the 510 and the ground lug, as im waiting for the tool in the mail from the uk. Thanks for all your help. i just wanted to make sure it was the only thig left it could be and not an issue i could have fixed in the evolve software, as it gives the right live ohm readings. ill wait until i get the tool and try to re tighten it and see if that fixes it. 

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16 minutes ago, awsum140 said:

Don't forget to check the 510 itself.  A weak spring or bad center pin,not enough travel or too short, can give you real headaches like this.

Fuck man, i think you might be right, i tried to press the centre pin in using a tiny bit of pressure, with a screwdriver and even just nudging it with the driver the 510 makes a slight clicking sound. before it has even movced down 1-2mm. i never thought that might be it, but it kinda makes sense if it was.,

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Don't forget the atty, so many have a centre pin that screws in which after lots of heat-cool cycles loosens and lets in dirt, try loosening a tiny bit then tightening all threads in your atty that are part of the current path.

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7 hours ago, VapingBad said:

Don't forget the atty, so many have a centre pin that screws in which after lots of heat-cool cycles loosens and lets in dirt, try loosening a tiny bit then tightening all threads in your atty that are part of the current path.

AS you can read earlier in the thread, ive used 3-4 different attys on it and they all are showing the same problem. so its not that.  The voltrove v3 35mm im using right now is brand new anyway.  but thanks for caring enough to recommend something.

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Read thru this thread and wonder if you have tried this basic exercise.......

Have you made a single wire spaced coil (not alien) and tried that.  Use wire Material such as Kanthal, SS316L, etc. Check the ohms reading with an ohm's reader before using (reading would be the cold ohms). Device is at room temp and atty at room temp before firing as a new coil?  Fire device and select "New Coil"

What reading do you get for Cold Ohms?

What reading do you get for Live Ohms?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks all for your imput. After i got another dna 250C 4s lipo device. it allso had the exact same issue. but luckily the 510 tool arrived in the mail shortly after. i tightened the 510s on both of the mods and now they both work perfectly. alls well that ends well.

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