mattman75 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 I was wondering if anyone on here would sell a 1590a already milled out for the 200. Or anyplace to purchase. Thank you Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xevape Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 I think this would be my area...Instagram.com/xevapeTake a look... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattman75 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Looks great! I'm just looking for the enclosure though. Would you sell just the enclosure? P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xevape Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 I have a front facing enclosure that fits tactile buttons is this what you would want? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattman75 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 I would prefer side mount using the onboard buttons with the threaded mounting holes. Can you do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 They are quite easy to mill with a dremel and tidy up with a needle file and fine abrasive paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattman75 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 That is what I am wanting. Just don't trust my filing skills!! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I'm no craftsman, alu is hard enough that as long as you haven't taken out too much you can just take your time and get OK results, like the straight edges I get them close with a file then tidy with 600 wet and dry paper warped around a bit of old credit card cut to the right width. I posted some details here on the build. Oh and it started looking like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattman75 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 That is s great post!! I might go ahead and give it a try. Thank you Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Thanks Matt, just take your time, check everything at least twice and have a practice soldering the thick wires if you are new or rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vape_Like_A_Boss Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Shapeways and places like that offer milled and 3D printed components for the DNA 200, I don't know if it's for the 1590A but I think mamu has some machined enclosures on shapeways and I think xevape might have mentioned having his designs somewhere similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jiphone Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Nice job! I worked for a machinist...as a machinist years ago, his test to new apprentices looking for work was to make something...whatever weird shaped piece he had laying around with only hand tools, a grinder and sand paper. It's amazing what can be done with skill and patience.VapingBad said:They are quite easy to mill with a dremel and tidy up with a needle file and fine abrasive paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLIT Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I envy your filing. Never thought about using a credit card measured out to keep it even when sanding. Thanks for the write up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 VapingBad said:They are quite easy to mill with a dremel and tidy up with a needle file and fine abrasive paper.Diggin that screen!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junianius Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Did you use a screen cover? Ive made my way to the point of dremmeling a hole for my screen and have no idea how i want to do it lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junianius Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Also when charging from board will it stop when batt is full or am i going to kill my batt if i leave it on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 The board will stop charging the battery when it's at full charge, if you leave it plugged in for some time after it reaches full charge the screen will pull it down a little, then the board will kick back in and automatically start charging it again. You can leave it pulled in forever and it won't over charge.You could use a screen cover if you want but it's not needed, I just attached the screen right to the box using 3M double sided adhesive tape that's used to hold screen's on ipod touch, you can get it for a few bucks on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Full-Adhesive-Apple-iPod-Touch/dp/B005ZG9X34Tape is clear, look closely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 junianius said:Did you use a screen cover? Ive made my way to the point of dremmeling a hole for my screen and have no idea how i want to do it lol.I used a bit of mobile phone screen protector cut with scissors and stuck (no extra glue) to the screen before fitting this time as the case was thinner and the screen wider than my previous builds, so don't need to do anything special to the case. Usually I don't bother the oldest DNA I did is 20 months old and the screen is still good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueridgedog Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 junianius said:Did you use a screen cover? Ive made my way to the point of dremmeling a hole for my screen and have no idea how i want to do it lol.I have used covers, only for aesthetics, not function. On my personal builds I use a lexan sheet that has been fit to the opening, then coated with blackout (designed for lights...allows light to pass in one direction). From there I remove the film covering on the factory screen (carefully...again carefully). The end result is a pitch black display area that really shows light through it.This is my beater that has blackedout lexan...it has also opened a few cases of beer bottles: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mandro Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 I've always cover the screen in my DNA builds. I started with Hammond boxes and used pieces cut from a CD case. These days I use 3mm aluminium enclosures so I cut a piece of 3 mm Perspex. Like blueridgedog, it's mainly for aesthetics, but it does keep the dust out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junianius Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 I really love that blacked out look it would go perfect with my box. Thank you so much for the battery info aswell that was really bugging me as i have battery direct to board (no room for connectors). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junianius Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 also i cut the hole for the usb a little to big any ideas on how to make that look a little better i was thinking a rubber gromet but im not sure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junianius Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 junianius Do you have enough room to set the board deeper and bring the usb port flush with the face? I made stand off posts, used six short self tapping screws, three from the back side of the board into the posts then three through the face of the box into the posts. The screws are 1.6 and fit nicely in the square aluminum stock, you can squeeze the stock to make the screws fit tighter if needed. I filled a notch in the back side of the jaws on some small needle nose pliers near the tip, then wrapped 28 ga kanthal around the jaw so there was a little protruding bump on each jaw, without the filed notch the wire would slip right off. For my final assembly after mock up I squeezed the flat sides of the square stock to create a tiny dent give more bite for the screws. The stock I used was from K&S Engineering stock#83010 3/32, got it from a local RC hobby shop for less the $2 You can cut it with a razor knife then final trim to length with 320 sand paper http://www.ksmetals.com/25.html NOTE: I would not trust these posts to carry B- (ground) alone through the case!After I set the board back, the back side of my buttons had a lot of clearance, I found some tiny o-rings to slip over the buttons to set them back further. They worked perfectly, giving a very slight preload on the switches, no rattle and a short and lite clicky throw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 My other thought if you don't want to go with stand off posts, you could use J-B Weld and build up a ramp around the usb, sand it and paint the epoxy. I would whittle a dummy usb port, wrap it in tape or coat it with wax or some kind of release agent so the epoxy doesn't stick to it, get J-B Weld on or in that usb port and you'll have fun removing the board or plugging it in again. It would be nice is someone created a 3d print file, a tiny face plate to go around a protruding usb port, guys.... hint... hint... LoL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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