JJVapes Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 I've watched the tutorials online and done everything they have done. I have 30g ni200 wire doing 10 wraps on a 1/8 drill bit rounding out at 1.2 for dual coils. All I keep getting no matter how many coils I build is temperature protected. It's driving me nuts. HELP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Temperature protected isn't an error, it just means that the DNA is reducing power to keep you from overshooting your temperature setpoint. You can turn the message off on the Themes tab in Escribe if it bothers you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJVapes Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Yea but I'm firing it up and the watts are jumping everywhere. The highest they are hitting is 37 before it shoots to 0 the. 9 then 0 ect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTMRider Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Sounds like you have a short or hot leg in one or both of your coils. Are they contact coils or spaced? Spaced seems to be much more reliable for Ni200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJVapes Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 I've done both spaced and tight and got the same results. Do I heat up and squeeze out the hot spots on the nickle with a normal mod or no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwaindablane Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 I prefer space coils IMO there just more stable, I personally use the atomizer monitor when I'm having difficulties obtaining a stable resistance. You may also find some attys have poor connection and/or static resistance that will effect temperature control, My SQuape Reloaded is an example of being absolute pants for TC therefore I only use it with Kanthal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJVapes Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 dwaindablane said:I prefer space coils IMO there just more stable, I personally use the atomizer monitor when I'm having difficulties obtaining a stable resistance. You may also find some attys have poor connection and/or static resistance that will effect temperature control, My SQuape Reloaded is an example of being absolute pants for TC therefore I only use it with Kanthal. I've tried it in both my twisted messes and velocity rdas. I'm going to spend some more time trying to get it built today. I know it's me messing up something I just gotta figure out what. =( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gm111 Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 JJVapes said:[QUOTE=dwaindablane]I prefer space coils IMO there just more stable, I personally use the atomizer monitor when I'm having difficulties obtaining a stable resistance. You may also find some attys have poor connection and/or static resistance that will effect temperature control, My SQuape Reloaded is an example of being absolute pants for TC therefore I only use it with Kanthal. I've tried it in both my twisted messes and velocity rdas. I'm going to spend some more time trying to get it built today. I know it's me messing up something I just gotta figure out what. =([/QUOTE] You need your screws too be not loose but not tight, if you use the atomiser analyser to tighten down the screws this should help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsidab81 Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Could you share a shot of device manager with you firing? Is your non firing resistance fluctuating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsidab81 Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 There wattage should throttle down as you hit temp protect target, but I've not seen mine go to 0...like it was said before hot legs, odd coil connection, etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueridgedog Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 I suggest you build a really great and stable single coil first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTMRider Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 blueridgedog said:I suggest you build a really great and stable single coil first. I was thinking the exact same thing as I was reading these posts. Start with a simple single spaced coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Here's my single coil build 32 gage .2ohm and a vertical coil 30 gage .2ohm for my nonrebuildable kanger coil head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJVapes Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 dsidab81 said:Could you share a shot of device manager with you firing? Is your non firing resistance fluctuating? I will after work. What size screw should I use? 1/8 20? I made some twisted pairs at work I'm going to try installing when I'm home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJVapes Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 I got everything going thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
combatwombat Posted August 15, 2015 Report Share Posted August 15, 2015 I use a machine screw #6 which is 3.5mm and it helps to give you perfect spaced coils. I triple twist 32gauge and 9 to 10 wraps for each coil for dual coils around .1 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector Posted August 16, 2015 Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 I have a question about coils also, so im new to building coils, i have an aspire triton tank. I used 30 gauge ni200 around a 3.5mm rod for 8 wraps. When i fire it, the positive leg seems to short (burn), sometimes it even melts the wire. Then when i do get a coil to not burn it seems to get to temp control real quick (450F), also the vapes are real cool through out. I have it on 25w with pre-heat at 200w for 1s. Is this normal and any advice to prevent the shorts or what ever is happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueridgedog Posted August 16, 2015 Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 What is the resistance you get with that build? The short could be due to insufficient tightening of the wire under the screw. Unreliable TC function is typically an atomizer with variable internal resistance or a coil with the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector Posted August 16, 2015 Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 I get .24-.28 ohms. Most likely not the insufficient tightening issues, might even be too tight as i go all the way to where it almost clips the wire(comes off with one twist). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueridgedog Posted August 16, 2015 Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 Your initial resistance is about right for the wire and coil you describe. A hot leg is almost always a short of some sort to the atomizer...after I build a coil I put a rod through it and lift/move it looking all around for possible contact with the atomizer, and keeping in mind the cap that will go on as it will short to that if you raise it to high.The weak vapor is frequently the result of varying resistance in the atomizer (base screw or spring in some models). A firm 510 pin is a big help as it pushes hard on the atomizer. So my only advice is to look for shorts, try with smaller coils in case you are running out of room with the cap and check the atomizer (testing different screw positions). I have six identical atomizers and two are finicky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector Posted August 16, 2015 Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 Yea it prob is shorting against the tank walls. I just ordered 32awg wires to test out, if not i might need a bigger tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inconceivable Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Been running a Kanthal / Ni200 Clapton that performs OK using a Ni200 profile within eScribe. Using Steam Engine I "think" I built a Kanthal / Ni200 profile, however no amount of fiddling will make it work anywhere near as well as the standard Ni200 build. Very lethargic regardless of settings, reaches temp very quickly. So my question is, what success have others had building coils such as this ? And maybe more importantly, what settings are you running ? Thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Podunk Steam Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 I'll share. I was working on a single core Clapton earlier but kept snapping the 28 gauge Ni200 core while wrapping on 32 gauge kanthal. I resorted to another means to try and extend the life of the 900 Mah Lipo cell being my first coil on a new device was clocking in at 0.04 ohms for test purposes. I'm calling this my "Hangover Coil" being the thought "I'll never do that again" kept coming to mind. Two strands of 30 gauge kanthal twisted with one strand of 30 gauge Ni200 wrapped on a 2.5mm mandrel in the Zephyrus. My 80 watt coil heat punch is about to get knocked down a bit, hooking up to EScribe right now. Jury's still out on the Hangover Coil. Edit: 50 watt coil heat for 2 seconds is way more suitable and somewhere around 420 F at 35 watts seems to be dialing this in nicely. Just like any good hangover it's bound to happen again sometime. Oh yeah! Tutti Frutti oh Rutti....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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