newby questions

[scottkoblitz]

I'm working on my second DNA200 MOD and second boxmod period. The first one works but I'm new to temp control so I'm not sure how good it works. Only temp control coil I have is a .15 mini subtank coil which I believe is nickel. It always reads higher then that from .22 as high as like .35. Now I read that when things heat up the ohms change but I wonder if it's enhanced by the fdv v4 I used? I've read that the evolve is suppose to be a lot better for temp control devices. I already have a few different fdv 510's and would like to use them if I can. I want this build to be a quality MOD and if the evolve 510 is that much better then I'll hold off and order one I guess. If I use the fdv is there really any point in cutting threads to mount it in my alpinetech box? Doesn't seem like much material to tap there. I don't have a tap that size but again if it will make the box that much better I'll buy one. I just drilled the first one out so if fit pretty tight but I do notice it turns sometimes when removing an rda. I was thinking maybe a dab of epoxy would remedy that and probably wouldn't effect the connection. Last but not least I ordered xt30 connectors. I have always used deans connectors with lipo's in all of my rc land, water, and air vehicles but I thought I read someplace that xt30's are sufficient and are a lot smaller. Is that what most people use?

[BillW50]

scottkoblitz said:

I'm working on my second DNA200 MOD and second boxmod period. The first one works but I'm new to temp control so I'm not sure how good it works. Only temp control coil I have is a .15 mini subtank coil which I believe is nickel. It always reads higher then that from .22 as high as like .35.

Yeah reading differently is normal as very few of them are right on the money. 0.22 is a bit high though and 0.35 is super high. If it is a 0.22 ohm room temperature coil and heated it reads 0.35 ohm is perfectly normal.

scottkoblitz said:

Last but not least I ordered xt30 connectors. I have always used deans connectors with lipo's in all of my rc land, water, and air vehicles but I thought I read someplace that xt30's are sufficient and are a lot smaller. Is that what most people use?

Yeah lots use X30 connectors. They are good up to 30 amps and that is all you need. Nice to met another RCer.

[retird]

The fdv 510's are pretty good and I've used them over the years but the Evolv 510 IMO is the best I've ever used...  

Here is a link to an Evolv 510 so you can review it...has optional mounting hardware if you don't want to thread your enclosure...

http://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-510-connector/

[scottkoblitz]

retird said:

The fdv 510's are pretty good and I've used them over the years but the Evolv 510 IMO is the best I've ever used...  

Here is a link to an Evolv 510 so you can review it...has optional mounting hardware if you don't want to thread your enclosure...

http://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-510-connector/

Do you know off hand if the hole size and threads are the same as the fdv? Wondering if I can install the fdv and still have the option to upgrade without replacing the whole enclosure.

[VapingBad]

No they are different the Evolv connector is half inch 20 pitch (1/2" UNF in the UK) and IIRC the FDV is 10 mm 1 mm pitch (not 100% sure of the thread pitch of the FDV).

[retird]

scottkoblitz said:

Do you know off hand if the hole size and threads are the same as the fdv? Wondering if I can install the fdv and still have the option to upgrade without replacing the whole enclosure.

I don't have the specs on the Evolv 510 but you can probably contact the link I gave you.... he should know as he builds them into his devices....

 

[scottkoblitz]

VapingBad said:

No they are different the Evolv connector is half inch 20 pitch (1/2" UNF in the UK) and IIRC the FDV is 10 mm 1 mm pitch (not 100% sure of the thread pitch of the FDV).

Correct me if I'm wrong but sounds like the mounting hole is about the same or slightly larger for the evolve. The evolve has the option of fastening it with the 4 screws. I'm thinking if I used a fdv for now to get up and running I shouldn't have to worry about a sloppy fit if I upgraded to the evolv. I would just have to bore it out a little possibly and then drill and tap the 4 mounting holes?

[BillW50]

Huh? It is a tiny board! What would make you happy? 50 damn screws?

[scottkoblitz]

BillW50 said:

Huh? It is a tiny board! What would make you happy? 50 damn screws?

Huh? I wasn't complaining about anything. Did you read the posts? I'm confused

[BillW50]

Yes I did. You want four screws, maybe more.

[scottkoblitz]

BillW50 said:

Yes I did. You want four screws, maybe more.

Lol I don't want anything. I was just trying to figure out if I can easily convert from a fdv to an evolv 510. I don't care how many screws it has or if it has any. I was just seeing what it would take to go from one 510 to another.

[BillW50]

[scottkoblitz]

BillW50 said:

The fewer screws the better as a matter of fact.

[Rob_H]

scottkoblitz said:

The fewer screws the better as a matter of fact.

I have used mostly Varitube 510's and have never had any issues. Their newest model is extremely easy to set up and can be soldered in place without disassemble. Under normal soldering heat there is no damage to the insulator which makes it all fast and easy to do.

http://www.varitube.com/VT-510-V2-Connector--Self-adjusting-Center-Pin_p_364.html

[VapingBad]

scottkoblitz said:

Correct me if I'm wrong but sounds like the mounting hole is about the same or slightly larger for the evolve. The evolve has the option of fastening it with the 4 screws. I'm thinking if I used a fdv for now to get up and running I shouldn't have to worry about a sloppy fit if I upgraded to the evolv. I would just have to bore it out a little possibly and then drill and tap the 4 mounting holes?

Yes, the Evolv is larger and you can enlarge the hole and tap to the correct thread, the 4 holes in the top are really for a pin wrench although you could use them to bolt it down

The Evolv 510 is on the rhs
 

[scottkoblitz]

VapingBad said:

Yes, the Evolv is larger and you can enlarge the hole and tap to the correct thread, the 4 holes in the top are really for a pin wrench although you could use them to bolt it down

The Evolv 510 is on the rhs
 

Is the evolv as deep or deeper then the standard fdv models. I have a new ceramic fdv and it's really shallow. My tugboat v2 doesn't sit flush on it and that's a pet peeve of mine. If it's not at least as deep as the standard fdv v4 or whatever the last version before the new ceramic ones was then I'd probably not even bother upgrading it.

[VapingBad]

The Evolv is a lot shallower than the standard FDV or VT connector, the top is about 3 mm and the part the goes into the mod less than 8 mm.



Evolv 510
The thread is 1/2"-20 threads (1/2" National Fine Thread) and requires a 29/64 hole if you tap it, or a 1/2" hole,  Pin wrench 1 5/8", 4.2 1/6" mm 0.16" pins 2.36 mm inner

[scottkoblitz]

VapingBad said:

The Evolv is a lot shallower than the standard FDV or VT connector, the top is about 3 mm and the part the goes into the mod less than 8 mm.



Evolv 510
The thread is 1/2"-20 threads (1/2" National Fine Thread) and requires a 29/64 hole if you tap it, or a 1/2" hole,  Pin wrench 1 5/8", 4.2 1/6" mm 0.16" pins 2.36 mm inner

[scottkoblitz]

What I'm concerned about is how long of 510 pins will it accept. Do you find that atomizers with long 510 pins won't sit flat?

[VapingBad]

I have never had a problem with them, but I don't think any of the atties I use are over long.  Pushing a vernier into it I get at least 5.3 mm depth, but I'm sure it would be more as the spring is so strong and the vernier depth bar is not.

[scottkoblitz]

Got another question. While vaping in my car with it plugged in because it's 100 degrees outside it said warranty service? Anyone ever seen that? It wouldn't fire until I unplugged it.

[Spector NS5 RD]

scottkoblitz said:

Got another question. While vaping in my car with it plugged in because it's 100 degrees outside it said warranty service? Anyone ever seen that? It wouldn't fire until I unplugged it.

careful with charging mods in the car. sometimes those cheap gas station car usb adapters have a dirty output signal and the dna 200 doesn't like it. i had the same thing happen to me with my VS dna 200. however, the reason mine flashed the warranty service message was because the usb cable i had inside the car was damaged/shorted. use a new or different usb cable. throw out the one that gave you that error. ambient air temp will not cause the warranty service message. 

[scottkoblitz]

ChunkyButt200 said:

careful with charging mods in the car. sometimes those cheap gas station car usb adapters have a dirty output signal and the dna 200 doesn't like it. i had the same thing happen to me with my VS dna 200. however, the reason mine flashed the warranty service message was because the usb cable i had inside the car was damaged/shorted. use a new or different usb cable. throw out the one that gave you that error. ambient air temp will not cause the warranty service message. 

Just examined the USB cable and sure enough the end is kinked and feels like it's damaged. I did get this USB part for like $4.00 too so hopefully one or those 2 things is all it is. I already had to send 1 board in (not this one but the first MOD I built was either doa or I fried the fire button somehow). Anyways I appreciate all your help.