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Efficiency 85%??


seti5

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I see no mention of the condition of the batteries being used. How they are stored, charged and discharged and how many cycles along w/age can all have a major effect on how they perform.

FWIW, my results are here. I have repeated the results and even using a Panasonic NCR 18650PF cell, I get run times comparable to- if not better than- what I get from an Evic VTC Mini using similar TC settings and resistance.

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¡Viva Marte con Fobos y Deimos incluidos, txmonkey214!


Sé perfectamente que Efest re-etiqueta otras baterías. Por eso investigué para encontrar una buena batería que alguien hubiese verificado a fondo.
Creo que ECF y Mooch están suficientemente contrastados como para confiar en sus análisis.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/efest-metallic-purple-35a-4200mah-26650-bench-test-results-just-a-23a-battery-but-4300mah.747579/
Sony, Samsung y LG no tienen baterías 26650 de alta capacidad y que den al menos 20A.
Y, o ya no vale la Ley de Ohm, o con resistencias del orden de 0.35? no se necesitan 25A para nada.
Con los propios datos de la pantalla del chip DNA75:
R=0.39? - V=4.39 - I=11.7A en el atomizador.
Incluso suponiendo un voltaje real de la batería de 3.5v (y a ese voltaje, el mod ya indica "week battery"), eso me da 14.68A con una eficiencia del 85% --> 17.26A en el lado de la batería.
No uso coils de 0.1?, así que ¿donde está el problema?
Se que se asumen muchas cosas, pero creo haberme tomado la molestia de comprobar las que puedo.
Por cierto, en mi MOD, con EScribe, el límite de la batería está fijado a 23A.
Y otra cosa que no me gusta nada del chip es que efectivamente se calienta, pero no es por la EFEST, ¡más quisiera yo!. Es que se calienta con la VTC4, la VTC5, la VTC5A, la LG HG2... y la Efest.
Y un últimos detalle, la mitificada Sony VTC5, según su datasheet es de 30A solo si se emplea en un dispositivo que corte si se alcanzan los 80ºC. Si no tiene ese control, Sony la rebaja a solo 20A. ¡Que curioso!
-----------------------------
Google traductor, 

I am aware that Efest rewrap other batteries. So I researched to find a good battery that someone had checked thoroughly.
I think ECF and Mooch are sufficiently tested to trust their analysis.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/efest-metallic-purple-35a-4200mah-26650-bench-test-results-just-a-23a-battery-but-4300mah.747579/
Sony, Samsung and LG 26650 batteries don't have high capacity at least 20A. And, or not worth Ohm's Law, the order of 0.35? resistors no need 25A  for anything.
With own data chip DNA75 screen:
R = 0.39? - V = 4.39 - I = 11.7A in the MOD.
Even assuming an actual battery voltage 3.5v (and that voltage, the mod already indicates "week battery"), that gives me 14.68A with an efficiency of 85% -> 17.26A on the side of the batería.
No use coils of 0.1?, so where is the problem? It assumed many things, but I think having taken the trouble to check I can.
By the way, in my MOD, with write, the limit of the battery is set to 23A.
And another thing I do not like the chip is actually heated, but not by the EFEST, the more I wanted !. It is heated with VTC4, the VTC5, the VTC5A, the LG HG2 ... and Efest.
And a last detail, Sony 
myth VTC5, see the datasheet, is 30A only if used in a cutting device 80ºC are achieved if. If you have no such control, Sony rebate only 20A. What curious!




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So with all the posts to date "What has been accomplished" and "What is it you are searching for @set5"?  

Buck-Boost is not as efficient as Buck regulators and a quality battery is better than a battery of lesser quality.  Seems simple to me but I must be missing something...  no problems with battery life here on my 200's or 75's.

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dwcraig1 said:

At the red arrow...it is 3.61 volts. This is with a LG HD2. Firing for 5 seconds.
SDNA75_at_50_watts.jpg 


something I watch board temperature you are showing about 30 degrees room and running temperature difference on the board that says a lot about efficiency of the device I'm from the old school. Voltage drop amps increase along with heat and heat not being a good thing on any board just my opinion
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dwcraig1 said:

Oh I see, then it did really well considering it's elevated temperature.

yes I don't word things so well do to how I see it after using mec mods for a while to pull a good battery down to 3.6 I know I am pulling some high amps close to max or better not making fun or trying to be rude to pull LG down like that your going to generate heat
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seti5 said:


new batteries from eu.nkon.nl/  . 3 charge cycles . OPUS Charger BT- C3100 v2.2 Final charge aprox 4.500maAh, 4.2v

(
I do not know how to add text to add a photo)




I'm sure those will be genuine, they have a good reputation, but 26650 are not good for high power vaping they have too much internal resistance.  You can see in your post #31 that they sag below 3 V only at 50 W so I doubt that will ever do 75 W for more than a few puff when fully charged.  I think putting current on the plots would help you understand how much the battery is struggling.

You have to open your pics in a image editor program to add pics.


To everyone in this thread:
These Escibe screen caps would be a more informative if they had the measuring bars, when DM is paused just click the line at the point you want to show values for, if you hold shift you can have multiple sets.
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Internal resistence? Makes perfect sense. seti5, I think ETA used 26650's. Left them laying around on a pile of coins, in public places. 
Also, I have noticed that most of the complaints I've seen on the board, across DNA platforms,  are either HCigar, Wismec, or Efusion mods. Can't be a coincidence.

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dwcraig1 said:

^^^^I was trying to do that but when I click on Snipping tool they go away

Just hold [shift] while adding the bars, then [alt]+[PrtSc], then past into a post.  Paste into post didn't work as it was too big I had to paste into mspaint and save to disk then add image to post.

Untitled.png 

That is a May 2015 25R at only 3.54 V
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cobalt327 said:

His Opus charger will measure the IR among other useful parameters, I have one exactly the same. Have made a log of all my batteries (vaping and otherwise) to keep track of their general 'health'. Point being, it's uber easy/quick to test IR. 



I do that and it is very good for spotting fakes, I also would recommend a capacity test as well as IR on it's own is not so clear until it goes right up and then you know they are knackered anyway. It varies a bit between batteries but I find a capacity test is always a good test of battery health if you took one when that battery was in good shape.

EG that battery I posted the plot for I measured IR when new as 17 milliohm at 3.65 V and 14 milliohm at 4.2 V, IR is quite sensitive to charge state and probably temp to.  I also have another 25R from the same batch that measured 14 milliohm at 3.65 V and 12 milliohm at 4.2 V when new, so the variance between batteries in the same batch is also quite high.
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