Reuleaux DNA 200 Screen Ribbon Fix Yes/No

[Kraken1210]

One thing I noticed after trying for the first time was the locking tab for the ZIF connector was in the open position. I hope to god I haven't screwed up the board.

[Spector NS5 RD]

the zif zocket latch latch will come open cause of the sticky side of the foam tape pulls it open when lifting the screen just snap it back down and see if yer screen is workin again.

[JeffH]

Are they all this way or is it just the first batch?

[Spector NS5 RD]

every one of em have the ribbon touching the fire button.

[VapingBad]

IMO the fix shouldn't need removing the screen, I can't be 100% as my Reuleaux is still in the postal system, but from the pictures you could just put a thin bit of plastic between the button and the screen cable, perpendicular to the board, maybe attached to the dark outer housing.
 

[Bigsman]

Did mine and also had the ZIF socket open up!  Took me a while to realise I'd done it and initially thought the little bit sticking up was just to sort of hold the screen/foam..doh!
Anyway...eventually worked out it was the ZIF tab..pushed it back down and did the ribbon fold then put the screen back in place.  Fingers crossed it lasts but it is working right now.  Not a hard job by any means but fiddly and definitely felt the pressure of breaking my favourite mod when it had no obvious problem in the first place..good luck to those who give it a bash!!

[Kraken1210]

I need to keep my insomniac fiddling limited to coil builds and do this type of stuff in the morning after ive properly read and digested the instructions with some coffee in me!
Turns out I've snapped the top section of the glass under the epoxy because I hadn't seated it 100% correctly before attempting to put the front back on .
Also explains why half the screen was working after the first try. It still connects to fine to Escribe and vapes great but Ive cut the ribbon back and put electricians tape over it to prevent any shorts to the main board just to be on the safe side.
Looks like im waiting patiently in the que for screens from stealth vape when they come back in stock, found a detailed guide that recommends gently bending the ribbon with a credit card in specific points to make installation easier. 

 

[Spector NS5 RD]

^^^^^^ooooooooohhhhhhhh noooooooooooo.......  kraken, that sux major balls. i'm sorry your screen broke. they are super delicate. if it's any consolation, i've cracked my fair share cranking down face plates wondering "why hell is this thing going on crooked? and hard to tighten down?...CRACK..CRUNCH!   DAMN IT. i hope you find a new screen with a quickness.

[Kraken1210]

Thank you! Good to know that someone else has shared the unfortunate situation and its not just my clumsy ass! It's quite a humbling experience breaking something that's fully functional whilst trying to modify it to prevent another issue. You live and learn though, until now I was used to simple mech mod's that got abused daily with minimum maintainence. I've ended up with the Lavabox and a Reuleaux in the space of a month and its like riding a pushbike for years and then settling into a 1000hp Bugatti for the daily commute. There are big screen DNA 40 boards available at a local vendors website and I'm tempted to get one just for the screen but think I'll hold out... For now

[TBCAmor]

Been following this and some other threads lurking so far around here. Thanks so much for pointing this out. I don't have Facebook, so the pics were very helpful. VapeNW, early order with the stacked coupons, mine was under the button. For all who are apprehensive, the plate is easily removed with little blue atty screwdrivers. Once open, you can at least see if yours is faulty. I'm awful at fixing anything non mech, but is pulled it open just to check, and see my comfort level from there. It took me a tad more time than most, but I fixed it. Again, I mess up stuff when boards and wires are concerned, but I was fine doing this. All,who are apprehensive, I suggest at least checking your fire button. That much is simple, the rest is pretty easy, just a bit nerve wracking. All should at least open it up to see where they stand in my opinion. Then, stop if it's too much.

[VapingBad]

Why risk taking your screen out and putting more folds in it , as I said earlier just put a bit of plastic between the cable and the button, I just got a Reuleuax today I did some pics.
 

I gently worked the plastic in between the wire and the switch from the direction of the arrow then trimmed the excess off.

[Spector NS5 RD]

IMO the tuck is simpler and you don't have to worry about a plastic shim floating around your mod. and if that plastic shim moves, and yer ribbon goes back under the button, how are you going to know? whatever works to keep the ribbon away from the button, thats what counts. folding, plastic shim, getting yer nephew's uncle's cousin to do it, whatever it takes. guess what? chicken butt.

[Furgy667]

I just did mine. I told my coworker that I would wait until the screens were available , but after seeing this thread I couldn't stand it. Every time I went to fire I would think about that tiny cable flexing . We tore it down at work but the board was cold and the tape seemed really stuck. Plus my hands were cold . Pro tip ! If your going to attempt this use the mod. Heat the chips up. I have built a couple DNA 20s & one 30 ( busted one 20 display) , so I was fairly comfortable with this. Still it should be said that bending that cable was a white knuckled job!! You have to put more force into the actual bending than I would like. Took 5 minutes and all is well .

[Xx3dge]

At least these are replaceable. I've broken my fair share of 40's and 30's screens and those really make your heart drop.

[bobjohnson]

VapingBad said:

Why risk taking your screen out and putting more folds in it , as I said earlier just put a bit of plastic between the cable and the button, I just got a Reuleuax today I did some pics.
I gently worked the plastic in between the wire and the switch from the direction of the arrow then trimmed the excess off.

Does this actually fix the problem though? The problem isnt the button touching the cable, its the button pushing on the cable and making the cable move. If your plastic shim still gets hit by the button and causes the cable to move, you'll have the same problem. Ribbon cables are not made to constantly be flexing around, the wires inside are very very fine and constant movement is what causes them to break.

[VapingBad]

bobjohnson said:

[QUOTE=VapingBad]Why risk taking your screen out and putting more folds in it , as I said earlier just put a bit of plastic between the cable and the button, I just got a Reuleuax today I did some pics.
I gently worked the plastic in between the wire and the switch from the direction of the arrow then trimmed the excess off.

Does this actually fix the problem though? The problem isnt the button touching the cable, its the button pushing on the cable and making the cable move. If your plastic shim still gets hit by the button and causes the cable to move, you'll have the same problem. Ribbon cables are not made to constantly be flexing around, the wires inside are very very fine and constant movement is what causes them to break.[/QUOTE]
Yes, the plastic stays put and acts as a barrier between the cable and button so both possible modes of failure are averted, 1 the cable getting pinched between the button and switch and 2 abrasion of the cable by the switch. 

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I just tried to do the magic screen fix and while I didn't break anything, the screen flickered, then died. When moving it around I could get it to come back on for short periods, now it's just dead. I'd order a new screen but I'd F' that up too. Jesus, I wish there was an AT YOUR OWN RISK in big bold letters.

Also I'd like to add I examined it, the ribbon just BARELY flexed when my button was pressed. Like a small vibration. I suck balls at building regulated devices and after I botched the Hana V200 510 replacement I vowed to never take apart another DNA again. I get the Reuleaux, I have battery life, I'm happy, I see this thread, and I break my screen.

I'm ready to just, give up on DNA200's I swear. I hope the shop replaces my reuleaux, B&M down the road.


To anyone as thick headed as me. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, THERE IS A CHANGE YOU WILL F YOUR SCREEN COMPLETELY. I say not worth it, I'd rather risk it dying on its own and still have a screen for, however long that takes. Have any Reuleaux screens ACTUALLY went out yet or is this all hysteria?

I would just also like to add I BARELY even touched the cable and the screen started to flicker. I left two batteries in it just to check the screen as I did this and I wasn't using anything that could short. If I had any idea what kind of plastic VapingBad used I'd use it instead of trying the tuck. Maybe my ribbon was already going bad and me trying to tuck it in is what killed it. Maybe people are making this seem far easier than it is. Maybe I'm cursed with all DNA200 devices. Maybe this is entirely my fault because I'm an idiot. I'm not sure. I just feel people have not adequately stressed enough in this thread YOU CAN DESTROY YOUR SCREEN DOING THIS, EVIDENTLY VERY VERY EASILY. I recommend do not this, take your chances. I have steady surgeon hands, and I F'd it up in less than two seconds. I hold no hard feelings, I realise this is entirely my fault and will not put the blame on anyone else.

But.



AT YOUR OWN DAMNED RISK PEOPLE.

[MikeTheVapeDude]

Evidently the screen still works. But like. if pressed down certain ways. HOW DO I FIX THIS?

[Spector NS5 RD]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

I just tried to do the magic screen fix and while I didn't break anything, the screen flickered, then died. When moving it around I could get it to come back on for short periods, now it's just dead. I'd order a new screen but I'd F' that up too. Jesus, I wish there was an AT YOUR OWN RISK in big bold letters.

Also I'd like to add I examined it, the ribbon just BARELY flexed when my button was pressed. Like a small vibration. I suck balls at building regulated devices and after I botched the Hana V200 510 replacement I vowed to never take apart another DNA again. I get the Reuleaux, I have battery life, I'm happy, I see this thread, and I break my screen.

I'm ready to just, give up on DNA200's I swear. I hope the shop replaces my reuleaux, B&M down the road.


To anyone as thick headed as me. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, THERE IS A CHANGE YOU WILL F YOUR SCREEN COMPLETELY. I say not worth it, I'd rather risk it dying on its own and still have a screen for, however long that takes. Have any Reuleaux screens ACTUALLY went out yet or is this all hysteria?

I would just also like to add I BARELY even touched the cable and the screen started to flicker. I left two batteries in it just to check the screen as I did this and I wasn't using anything that could short. If I had any idea what kind of plastic VapingBad used I'd use it instead of trying the tuck. Maybe my ribbon was already going bad and me trying to tuck it in is what killed it. Maybe people are making this seem far easier than it is. Maybe I'm cursed with all DNA200 devices. Maybe this is entirely my fault because I'm an idiot. I'm not sure. I just feel people have not adequately stressed enough in this thread YOU CAN DESTROY YOUR SCREEN DOING THIS, EVIDENTLY VERY VERY EASILY. I recommend do not this, take your chances. I have steady surgeon hands, and I F'd it up in less than two seconds. I hold no hard feelings, I realise this is entirely my fault and will not put the blame on anyone else.

But.



AT YOUR OWN DAMNED RISK PEOPLE.

your zif socket connector has most likely come open from lifting up the screen when doing the ribbon tuck. the sticky foam tape pulls up on the connector opening it, it happened to me. it's the black connector that holds the screen ribbon to the board. there's a tiny flap on top that opens and closes. make sure your ribbon cable is completely inserted and make sure it's snapped shut on both sides and report back. and it says on page 1 post 13 attempt at your own risk.

[Spector NS5 RD]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

I know. I just think the font needed to be bigger.

Also, ZIF connector is fine. If I bend the ribbon forward. Toward the screen, and bend it down onto the screen to where the ribbon right where it actually connects to the legit screen itself, if I bend the ribbon down onto the screen, right there, the screen will work. Nowhere else.

I think people saying this 'fix' (for something that isn't even broken) shouldn't be made seem like it's the easiest thing in the world, that anybody can do with little risk. That's kind of how it seemed to me, but not you. You were up front, everyone else claimed this is a 5 minute fix that's easy and painless. It is not.

I'm familiar with ribbon cables through microsoldering crap I've done when building PC's like SLI cables. I know there's tiny, tiny, tiny wires in them. I think at the base of the actual screen itself, the wires have come loose or have become damaged.

Stress to people to tuck from the bottom of the ribbon, you never specified WHERE to start tucking. The tutorial was very helpful until it got to the tucking part, then it hung you out to try with just a picture that literally shows nothing other than a stick next to a screen.

i just copied and pasted directly from facebook. those arent my instructions. but i understand what you are saying. i amended my thirteenth post anyway. hopefully it'll make people think before consulting on their warranty. i'm guessing where the ribbon is epoxied to the screen is where your problem lies. sucks man, i feel somewhat responsible for posting those help photos etc. i am sorry. maybe evolv or protovapor can get you the new screen they are shipping out with the 200 boards.

[MikeTheVapeDude]

Where do I even get a new screen? Dude at the vape shop said he'd try to get me a replacement, but. I'm starting to wonder if having a DNA200 is even worth it. I love the TC, wire curves, all that. But I've had three now and they've all had issues, but the Reuleaux wasn't, messed up. I just saw this post, freaked out and decided to take matters into my own hands. Blah.

I'm a one mod type of guy, I like to have ONE device, that I can depend on, and the DNA200 doesn't seem like that kind of device.

[Spector NS5 RD]

well i hope i don't get sniped for posting this but, the Yihi sx mini ml class is out. they have a program similar to the dna 200's escribe. sxi-q it's called. adjustable tcr, temperature compensate, and some other goodies. maybe that's more your style. i personally own four dna 200's and love em all. all work flawlessly. none go to work with me tho as i do hvac. that's where my poineer4you ipv d2 steps in. small dependable, ni and ti. does all i need for out in the field.

edit....contact evolv if your vendor fails you. they'll do what they can.

[VapingBad]

If you are going to bend the screen cable it will be a lot easier and IMO safer to disconnect the cable from the board by flipping the plug clip up and make one fold at a time rather than the 3 at one time doing it in-place.  They are not fragile when done like this as long as you don't bend it right by the screen and don't bend it repeatedly in the same place.  Ceramic tweezers or a wood tooth-pick in the hole on the cable are good to insert it back into the plug, take it slowly and don't force anything.  Though I still think the piece of plastic method I posted before is less risky if you are new to this.

How the zif socket opens, be very gentle with this, the cable comes in from the rhs of the picture.
 

[MikeTheVapeDude]

Where do I get a screen, and how to I install it? That's all I want to know.

[VapingBad]

Sorry, I don't know anywhere to get a screen ATM they have been in short supply for a while now due to a fire in a factory that makes them and mony ohter small OLED screens, a DNA40 large screen will work if you can borrow one of another device until they are available again.