John

Well, your bandgap looks okay. Can you graph all three cell voltages and fire it? Would be interested to see what the cells are doing loaded.

Does it run normal speed if the DNA 200 isn't connected?

Well, that's a bit exciting, but it doesn't sound exactly like a blown fuse per se. Will it turn on when not connected to USB? If you turn on the debug options (go to help... about... then left click on our logo seven times) and then open up device monitor, what does the bandgap read?

Well, then it is definitely not the update process. Are you running proxy servers or unusual antiviruses or anything like that?

BlackouTT, try installing the newest version we just put up in the thread "Early Firmware". That won't try to update, so if the problem is update related, we'll know.

Well, with a 2s pack the max output voltage is 6.0V The max output current is still 50A

If you want to come by the Akron shop tomorrow or the next day, we'll get you straightened out. I work approximately 2pm to 4am, so you wouldn't put me out if you stop by after work or whichever. I haven't dissected one of the new Hanas yet to see how they are being built, but they are pretty closely based on our reference design, so they SHOULD work. There are nuances to it, though, so it would be interesting to see what's going on, and if you're here I can't hold your mod hostage for weeks.

Minimum, no. Maximum, yes.

Last temperature is the average temperature for the entire last puff. If you graph temperature and last temperature it in device monitor, you'll probably see a temperature rise as the puff goes on.

Are you an hour from Ashtabula or Akron?

Also, if you fire the mod from inside device monitor (Puff button, then select 2 seconds or whatever) does it dim out the same way, or is it just when you hit the physical fire button?

Any chance you could post/link a video of what it is doing?

Yes, absolutely plan to. We see 2s replaceable battery mods being more common than 3s replaceable, just due to form factor.

Well, it definitely took physical damage. Whether that happened here (by a robot, most likely) after programming and test, or while being cut apart, or in packaging, or shipping, or device assembly I couldn't say. But PM me your address and I'll get another out to you.

Looking at it more closely, the capacitor on the edge is crushed too and the copper is exposed. The board unquestionably got crushed by something at some point after functional test. Did it ever read a battery correctly?

How are you able to charge with the fuse blown? Or is this an old screenshot? Also, how are you able to charge at .974A connected to a standard USB port?

If you've used a Kick 1 you've used a DNA 12. Same board, different shape.

If you want to increase cell life, you are better off switching from "Maximize Puffs" to "Maximize Recharges." That will double your cell life at a cost of about 14% run time.

Ah. Your charging brightness is 0% Set it to 50% and you should be good to go.

This is becoming an upsetting trend. Before you send it to Opus can you connect it to Escribe and take a screen shot of the device monitor?

Hard is actually 2.85. There's very little extra energy below 3.1, you'd be talking a few minutes extra run time at most, and you'll lose maybe 10% of your usable charge cycles. Whether that trade-off is worth it is up to you.

Windxrunner if you save your settings file and post it here, we can probably figure out why charge fields aren't cooperating for you.

The control loop is different between the DNA 200 and the DNA 40. The 200 will control around the set temperature (using up to the set wattage), whereas the 40 will avoid the temperature limit at all costs. The 200 should be much more resistant to the pulsing that you could get with a 40 if you had a high setpoint and limited airflow or other low power requirement situations. It should be smoother, but the control error will be distributed on both sides of the setpoint rather than strictly below it. Do you have a charging brightness set above 0%? Try setting it to 50% and they should show up. It is important to remember that the charging fields only show up after the active time and the idle time have expired, so a bit more than a minute since you last pressed a button by default. What kind of builds are you running? It needs to see a rise from its cold resistance to 150F (at the set wattage) in order to kick over to temperature mode.

I'm making a new thread for discussion and testing of the new support for 2s batteries here. The firmware update to allow it should be posted shortly. To use 2s mode, you have to make taps from the battery as usual, but because there is no third cell, the tap connection labelled 3 must be connected directly to the tap connection labelled 2. This can be done in the wire harness or by jumpering the connections directly on the board. This is the ONLY way that 2s batteries will work and balance correctly. Other than that, it is just a matter of selecting 2 cell rather than 3 cell in the battery section. You can use 2 cells with lipos, LiFePO4 or cylindrical lithium ion. The max power and max preheat are 133 watts when running from 2 cells. Attached is a battery curve for a 2s pack of LG 18650 HE2 cells. This is probably a good starting point for high drain 18650s. The measured capacity was 15.5 watt hours. LG18650HE2.zip

Sure, you could do that. Just make sure the batteries can supply 25 amps.