John

If we did this, we'd be more likely to make it manufacturer specific with a flag (we already have this capability) so that mods that ship with a high voltage pack are the only ones that can enable it. Unless we know that it is specifically being built into something with a battery that supports it, the increase in capacity isn't worth the additional risk to someone using a standard battery. Not that 4.35 volts will cause fires, but it WILL trash batteries that aren't designed for it in VERY short order.

Feklar, if you go to "Options" in Escribe and un-check "automatically check for updates" that would make it work. But of course you have to have the software launched to do that... We should add a timeout if it can't communicate with the server after 15 seconds or something. Good catch, onto the "to do" list.

Bern if you use atomizer analyzer on a cold coil, what does it read? What does this coil read for resistance on other mods? 350 is pretty low for most tanks, try it at 450 and see It is clearly reading some change in resistance and it is reading a temperature, so either your cold ohms is wrong, or your juice doesn't do anything at 350, or the TCR curve for your material is wrong. Is this Nickel 200 wire or something else, like a titanium? What atomizer? Can you set device monitor up with just power, temperature, cold ohms and live ohms, and then hit the record button and post the CSV file of a couple puffs? It is detecting temperature control (or it would fire at your 25 watt setpoint rather than temperature limit low enough you aren't getting vapor) so this should be totally possible to diagnose.

Those are really only good for about 5 amps continuous and 10 amps peak, so unless you never intend to go above 100W I would go with something beefier.

We use four 50 watt, 1 ohm power resistors in parallel for a total output resistance of .25. I don't know of any for #2 yet.

Warranty error means that the logic voltage regulator is running out of spec. That could be due to a soft short circuit somewhere in the logic circuitry, a total battery voltage under 4v, or similar. Basically it means the output isn't going to be correct, and often the root cause will cause firing or charging issues as well.

Yep. Graph the live resistance. That way we can see what's going on.

Hey, that is a slick idea! Diodes or a double pole switch would be necessary.

You would have to talk to opus for that, I know nothing about where he has the parts of the opus made or by whom.

Yes, go to device monitor, and then select the check box next to "live ohms"

You have to have the main leads and the balance leads connected for it to read properly. Otherwise it doesn't really have a ground. So this is the expected behavior.

If you turn temperature control off, does it work normally? You can fire nickel coils with temp mode off too. If so, can you post a graph of the live ohms from device monitor?

The plan is to have at least a few of the button cap sets on our website next week. With the equipment we have, the buttons take nearly as long to make as the case itself, so there could be a touch of sticker shock involved, but they will be available. They take about 6 minutes per set to do on a $140,000 lathe. Engraving with a max spindle speed of 6000 rpm takes forever. A screw machine would be much faster and more cost effective, but I haven't got one.

Yikes! That does look cold. On the 200, we have to run the boards through the line inductor side first, and the second pass through the oven they're just held on by solder paste surface tension, so we lose a few here. This one probably was loosened up by that, but held on just long enough to get to you and be disappointing. If you want to try to solder it back on, you're welcome to and if you break it send it in and we'll fix it. If not, just send it in and we'll fix it.

Well, we also need a CNC machine operator. If you're an experienced press operator now I could teach you to to run CNCs instead in probably two weeks. Can't hurt to PM us a resume.

No problem. PM me your address and We'll get a pair out to you.

Ah crumbs. Okay well we will figure out what we broke between 7/14 and 7/16. Thanks. Keep testing 7/14 to make sure it doesn't pop up there. There isn't a big difference between the two.

Huh? https://my.evolvapor.com/sncheck If the serial number checks out, it is a DNA 200. Or at this point, if it talks to Escribe. There's no "over 150 watt" mode on a 200 and certainly no pulsing mode. Are you sure you're not thinking a snow wolf?

There are plenty of drop in connectors and solutions for this type of 3 cell pack. Many brands of power tools now have an option that is 3 18650s with a drop in connector. Certainly there will be a learning curve, but it is not insurmountable.

Yep. If you look in the upper right corner, there are components that got knocked off. PM me your address and I'll swap you for another.

Yeah load 7/14 firmware onto it and see if it goes back to cooperating. Or even 7/9

The charger only steps voltage up. The board only steps voltage down, and the internal logic needs at least 5v to run. If you run from single cell, which is 3-4.2v, the charger will not be able to control charging, because it can put out a minimum of 4.5 volts. The board would only be able to put out 3v, and at any rate neither system would turn on. I'm not saying it isn't possible. I am saying this board can't do it. The reference design, with a 3s battery in it, is significantly smaller than a classic Hana, so you don't have to get particularly big to get the feature set. You can even turn the max power down and run a 3s battery that is smaller than an 18650 if you are so inclined. You just can't do it from a single cell with this particular board.

Could be. Picture of the board in question?

Is that stable as you screw and unscrew your connector? Which connector? Any chance the connector center pin is stuck or otherwise making poor contact? Is this the .2 ohm or the .3 ohm build?

Not really, no. The whole board is built around using a 3s lithium. I mean, sure, we could detect it, but we couldn't... do... anything with it, couldn't charge, etc. We COULD conceivably run from 2s in a degraded (probably 120W or so) fashion, but once you go to 2s and taps, there's very little extra cost or difficulty to go to 3.