Gm111

What's your preheat set at?

Okay so I know this isn't a new thing any more, but after just over 4 months my board has gone and thrown up the warranty service. I've tried everything I can think of, soft and hard reboot, changing the firmware and tonight I've tried re soldering (although I think my soldering before was better) and tried a brand new battery. The battery went from 3.10v 3.11v 3.11v down too 2.80 2.82 2.82 fast. My bandgap is 0.762 and my modeled temp is 66.99f. I'm just about too submit a ticket too the help desk but would rather get it working again than go through the hassle of sending it too the USA from the UK. Any help will be much appreciated..

Save settings as a file from one and load settings when your other device is connected. Then upload to device.

Mines been doing this, I noticed that the fire button was touching the ribbon cable slightly when pressed, not squashing it inbetween the tactile switch but the screen would go blank without the tactile switch clicking (just slight pressure).

So yesterday my battery weak message come up at 19% @9.3v and now it's at 5% @10.8v (message hasn't come up yet but noticed it was low so put it on charge)? Could this be a chip issue?

Will you please take a look at this video and would this work for Neil? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ceW0MEK-Z4w

Just curious if you could offer any suggestions on getting the solder to stick to the 510 threads? Do you have any pics of your job? I got the wire soldered to the ground plate nicely. I'm using 18ga non copper wire.[/QUOTE] Just tin the 510 and your iron and solder away, you shouldn't be using 18 gauge either, 16 is the minimum and recommended is 14 gauge.

The board has a fuse as said above so there is no point.

If you've entered the csv file from steam engine you should be able to run it too what ever temperature you normally vape at, you only use different temp on yihi chips because it doesn't know what Ti is.

It will still vape the same with the message Glen, your not doing nothing wrong, it's just telling you it's reached your temperature.

will you post a screenshot of device monitor with mod plugged in.

Right so nothing is coming up in escriibe as the usb isn't working obviously, the only thing you could do is speak to one of the evolv guys and see if they've had any problems in the past, if they havn't then they will most likely want you to send the board back to them and send you a new one or send your mod back and swap for a beta box. They should be online in a few hours.

Have you tried a different use cable? Had the same issue, the first usb I used worked fine tryed it next day nothing.. Tried a different one everything has been good since.

I give up haha, my battery reads fine so it's no problem just wanted it to be more accurate. Maybe I will get the drill out tomorrow and give it a stretch to see if I can get rid of the springiness.

I had the shorted problem a few times but I would check my coil once I had it, even though everything all looked good gave them a tap and all was good again. I always found it was after the device had been too sleep, since using 8/5 firmware I haven't had it.. I hope someone can come to a conclusion for you about this.

ahhhh this stuff is too springy, ended up doing 15 wraps around a 30ml bottle for it to just go to the other side of the room when I let go

For some reason I was under the impression that you had to use a resistor but I take it this is just the way you done it John, I've got some 18 gauge kanthal laying around somewhere, what would be the best way to go about doing the battery analyser on an atomiser? would dual coils do or would quad be better? Also what would be the best coil resistance and wattage to use? Or would I have to make my own resistor as blueridgedog says above?

You don't have to use the same one just try and find one the same size.

Have you changed the battery curve?

Anything rated over 23 amps, an XT30 is ideal for positive and negative but you will need the jst-xh balance plug on it

Yes the equation you need to work out is Mah * capacity / 1000 = amps Soo 2200 * 20 / 1000 = 44 amps

That battery is not good enough, recommended above 23 amps. I used a Turnigy nano-tech 1000mah 45c (74x35x19) battery soldered positive and negative straight to the board and it fits perfect just to let you know what size can be used .

I've tried it in both my twisted messes and velocity rdas. I'm going to spend some more time trying to get it built today. I know it's me messing up something I just gotta figure out what. =([/QUOTE] You need your screws too be not loose but not tight, if you use the atomiser analyser to tighten down the screws this should help

I'd imagine it would fit.

Yes James!! Your a star .