BillW50

Yes it looks like the battery chip on the DNA250C board is bad. Maybe someone else might have something else to add.

Does the lipo balance plug plugs directly into the board? And this is a 3 cell lipo and not a 4 cell right? Also check with EScribe software and check whether it is set for the correct cell lipo. If you don't know where it is in EScribe, just ask.

When a DNA gets too hot, I'm pretty sure that is set to 100°C. And it doesn't lower the wattage, but just displays Too Hot error and refuses to fire. Oh works fine with .37Ω? Oh I tested with a .4Ω Kanthal coil. I don't have anything built right now at .15Ω (which is weird since I commonly do). But I am positive I have many times even on a DNA100C and its not a problem. But that does tell me the problem is at the final stage on the board (which is no surprise really, as there was better than a 50% chance it was there anyway). I'm glad you found out everything you did. Because that really narrows it down perfectly. Bummer getting a faulty board though. That is super rare.

I'm running the International firmware version, same for you? I'm trying to think of a reason for your experience outside of a problem with the board itself. But everything externally looks fine in your screenshots. A faulty board could cause this i.e. temperature sensitive faulty chip or a cold solder joint. In either case, it needs to be replaced or repaired. Is it less than a year old? If so, Evolv covers it under warranty.

Does it happen at 50 watts too? Chain vaping here at 50 watts I got the board reading over 130°F and power out is solid. The battery is only a 15A battery (so 50 watts is pushing it) and the battery is at a low charge and the battery voltage drop is at 2.9v (not surprising) when firing. Running SP55.1 here.

Ok, I'm going to try duplicating this on one of my DNA100C.

Sorry, so you want to fire at 100 watts and have to wait for the board temperature to fall below 40°C (104°F) between firings and then it works perfectly right?

What troubles me is why are you firing a DNA100C for 60 seconds? This isn't what the rest of us are accustom to using our DNA100C for. And to handle such abuse, you're probably going to need heatsinks and possibly fans.

To be honest, it sounds like a bad board. If it is still under a year old, the board is still under warranty.

Officially I never heard why they went with a 24 hour timer for deep sleep. Although from an engineering standpoint, I would guess they went to 24 hours to prevent excessive writes to the flash memory. They can only handle being written to so many times and they are done. And I am thinking that the flash memory is only written to only before it enters deep sleep (or firmware updates). If that's the reason, I think they are just over protective.

Hi Peter. Yes that 5 clicks to lock is something else entirely. That just prevents the buttons from doing anything like accidentally firing or changing the settings while in your pocket for example. The deep sleep timer is totally independent from the lock screen. And the deep sleep timer gets reset to zero every time the screen lights up. The up, down, and select buttons does nothing if the board is in deep sleep mode. If you have trouble finding SP33, let me know. I'm sure it is here somewhere. And don't quote me on the subversion numbers, but there is more than one. Something like 33, 33.1, and 33.2 I think. But all of them deep sleeps in an hour. Yes, as far as I know... all DNA75C and DNA100C firmware versions enters deep sleep after an hour.

Say Peter. I've heard this complaint about the DNA250C many times. And I have tested the DNA250C boards many times. I have 25 DNA250C mods and 5 spare boards. And I get the same results every time. Here is how they work. If using any firmware higher than SP33.xx, the board will take 24 hours before it goes into deep sleep. And every time you wake the screen up, the 24 hour timer restarts back to zero. So if you just wake the screen up just once every 24 hours, it will continue to drain the batteries at a high rate. Because the board will never enter deep sleep. Now if the screen doesn't light up after 24 hours, the drain will stop since it is now in deep sleep mode. You will know this by pressing the up, down, and select buttons and the screen doesn't light up. If it does light up (you didn't wait 24 hours) and the deep sleep timer starts allover again. How much it drains the batteries depends on the battery capacity. But for most, it drains about 4% in 24 hours. Want to instantly put it into deep sleep? Here's how I do it. Disconnect the batteries for about 10 seconds. Then reconnect them. The board will be in deep sleep mode. Press the up, down, or select button and the screen won't light up. And the batteries won't drain. Or wait 24 hours and it will also be in deep sleep by then. Don't like this 24 hour wait? I sure don't and neither does Vaperz Cloud who sells the HOG DNA400C (it's using a DNA250C board). As they sell all of them with SP33 firmware installed. And all of my DNA250C mods, I too only run SP33 firmware. As SP33 only waits an hour then it enters deep sleep mode. This drains the batteries 24 times less in 24 hours. I've left some DNA250C mods with batteries installed for years and I check them about once a year and the battery charge is still fine. By the way, nice finding a new Dovpo Riva DNA250C. I have two of them myself and they are a very nice mod. I haven't seen anybody have any in stock for at least two years now.

Oh there is no tiny battery in the DNA60. The DNA60 does save when it goes to deep sleep after an hour if you don't press any buttons. You can check if it is in a deep sleep state by pressing the up and down buttons and the screen doesn't light up. If it does light up, you have to wait an hour for it to deep sleep again. Although your problem maybe something else, but I would try to let it deep sleep first before changing the battery to see if that corrects it. I know, you probably won't want to wait with every battery swap and I wouldn't expect you to. Just whenever you can.

Is this a DNA75C, 100C, or a 250C? Because if it is, there is a tiny battery mounted on the board that charges when you place your battery(s) in the mod. If the battery has been out for say 10 minutes or more, then that tiny battery is dead and needs to recharge which can take hours since it charges very slowly. And that tiny battery is responsible for retaining memory.

Yes you can use SS with TC without a problem. Although if you are using prebuilt coil heads, they are probably using nickel legs. Meaning that setting it to SS might not work out too well. A DNA will often kick out of TC mode and drop into wattage mode if you try. That is because SS316L uses a TCR of like .00088 to .00092 ish. But with nickel legs, it combines to be more like .00125. So this is what I use for those type of coils. Yes mesh works really well with TC too. And Ni200 isn't a problem either. Ah... double your wattage for TC thing. Yes well you can and that will vape at the temperature you have dialed in. Evolv calls this Temperature Dominant. Most TC vapers vape this way. Say you have the temperature set to 420°F. From the moment you fire, it will vape at 420°F until you stop firing. Problem vaping this way is flavor notes peak at different temperatures. And vaping Temperature Dominant you miss out on all of the other flavor notes that you would get from power mode alone. And most people who try TC, give up because they don't like the way it vapes (missing out on the other flavor notes) and go back to power mode vaping. Ah... but you can have both. Evolv expected TC vapers would vape by Power Dominant. Here you set the wattage the same as you would do in power mode alone. In fact, it vapes just like wattage mode. You get all of the flavor notes the same. And those that tried TC and quit, should try this way to see if they like it. The difference between power mode and Power Dominant TC, is the latter gives you dry hit and burn protection and won't go above the set temperature.

This is common with not only with DNAs, but most mods as well. If it can't get enough power from the battery, it drops the wattage until it can. Likely suspect is the battery. You will need a battery that can do 30A to get that kind of power out of it. A poor battery connection can also cause the same thing.

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I bet he consumed the same amount of juice in a day and half that you do (including myself) in 9 hours. Sometimes getting a second opinion really pays off. Me either to be honest. But that's not to say that the Hadron Pro is awful or anything. After all, it is a good mod and all and one of the few that can do 400 watts quite easily. And pulling 100 watt vaping like you and I vape for 9 hours is still very respectable. The longest lasting per charge mods that I own are probably my two Vaperz Cloud HOG DNA400C (it's really using a DNA250C) using four 18650 cells. With 3000mAh cells, we could vape for about 15 hours at 100 watts. It is heavier than a Hadron Pro, but shorter. And that is about the best you are going to do for battery life. Unless you DIY your own mod that is bigger and heavier.

A Hadron Pro vaping at 100 watts and lasting about 9 hours? Sounds about right for those 4 cell 1600mAh lipos. Which lasts just as long as a DNA250C using two 21700 @ 3200mAh. The fast battery drop after charging is also perfectly normal too.

The firing pad in this pic is off on the right side on the table. They break off from the plastic frame. Why they used plastic arms to act as a spring, I'll never know. Some have just glued the arms back on. But I would guess it would just break again. It might work by tossing the pad away and just using it without.

I use Frank's Theme for all color mods. And Frank's shows the cell voltages and charge rate under battery screen. It also shows charge rate if locked.

You are not going to get 2A at full charge. What are they when you believe you should be getting 2A charging? And some themes will tell you how much current it is charging. If not, EScribe's Device Manager will. But most computer's USB ports usually won't deliver you a full 2A. Some as little as 500ma. Also you mentioned that the USB plug gets very warm, as well as the XT60 connector. Which is a bit disturbing. That usually means bad connections (resistance and current creates heat). Could be a bad USB cable (like @dwcraig1 had mentioned), dirty connections, etc.

Often when I hear these stories, the DNA is almost always in balance charging mode which is super slow. Normally matched cells don't require balancing or very little at all. Thus it isn't time consuming normally. So what are the cell voltages?

That is odd @pasha_bog. As long as everything works fine, it doesn't sound dangerous. What kind of mod is this DNA100C? EDIT: D'oh! An Hyperion, silly me. Does it make a noise when you shake it? I have a few Hyperions myself and the firing pad has a habit of breaking away from the plastic frame.

I am not surprised. I bet the spring is starting to corrode. You could clean the spring, but it will be back. Best to replace that 510 spring.