mactavish

Thanks, Thought there might be a quicker way. At least now I understand those numbers more fully. I get most of my values from SE, but I find some CSV files now and then with no mention of their TCR value. Guess if I had to, now I now how to!

Wondering if this is even possible. A bit of reverse engineering in a sense. There are a lot of CSV files for given wire types shared online. Other then loading them, uploading to your device and trying them, I'd like to know if just by looking at the CVS file itself, if it's possible to figure out what TCR was used to create it? Hope I'm being clear?

Nah, you are well RESPECTED! At least in my book. It's something they should consider improving. Since the latest versions of Escribe know you set it for temp dominant, the software should allow you to select wattage in the drop down menu for that field. It's just logical. I'll go beyond saying its counterintuitive, and say it's incomplete code, not a bug, but certainly could be smarter. I've had to spend a lot of time rebuilding my settings from my DNA200, to the new SMY DNA75. At first I thought I cheat and load the 200 profile in, but all the mods settings for the electric parts, mod resistance etc. are different, as well as new settings for the LED button light etc. The good news was you can open two different setting screens in Escribe, side by side, and duplicate the fields you want. You still have to load custom screens etc. and I'm now glad I didn't get too crazy modifying all the 200 screens. Thanks for your help as always!

Thought you were crazy at first, counterintuitive, so I went back and opened my 200 settings, and you are RIGHT! Thanks!

With my new SMY DNA75, I am trying to duplicate most of the settings I have on my DNA200. On the mods main screen while in TC mode I like to see: ON RIGHT: TEMPERTURE ON LEFT COLUMNS: OHMS "material" WATTAGE In Escribe settings for the 75, I can't seem to find the "wattage" setting in the drop down menu. I like to set temp dominant, but it's nice to see the set watts as well on the main screen. Works that way on the 200. What am I missing? Thanks!

Thanks, I'll try it today! Installed, ran fine, sees all my saved DNA200 settings. When the new SMY DNA75 comes, I'll be ready. THANKS!

So I would NOT be able to just simply install over my current 1.0.42 version, that sucks. Didn't really want to roll back, before installing the DNA75/200 version. I may try it anyway. Thanks.

For my DNA200, I'm running "2016-02-29 EScribe 1.0.42". This was the last test version, running well. With my SMY DNA75 coming, I wanted to install the latest version of ESCRIBE, that works with both the 200's, and 75's. "MikePetro" says: "However, make sure you are not running the DNA200 2016-04-25 firmware (which was beta FW). If you are then please roll back to the 2016-02-23 firmware. The most recent "released" version of DNA200 FW you that you should run is 2016-02-23". Wondering if I can install the latest Escribe DNA75 version "1.0.56", OVER my current "1.0.42" version, and NOT lose my previous settings, or is it absolutely necessary to roll back further to the older "2016-02-23"? Or am I confusing Escribe versions and firmware versions? Confused!

Only thing that has worked for me is to make the Kayfun's 510 screw/pin SUPER TIGHT! It's been over 24 hours, including an overnight were the VS DNA200 was asleep, still holding ohms and has not drifted even 0.01 ohm. Still don't get accurate readings on my CoilMaster 521 Tab, I believe on that ohm reader/coil building station, the female 510 is a bit too low for the SHORT 510 pin on the Kayfun v5.

I believe he was just suggesting it to see if I was making a good connection as my Kayfun has the shortest 510 pin of every atty I own, that in conjunction with my low VS DNA200 female 510, is not ideal. Hopefully what I did in the post above is the cure. SUPER TIGHT on the Kayfun 5, bottom 510 pin. As a side note, when I first received my VS, most of my attys, like stock Kanger SubTank mini's, etc, were NOT sitting flush, the worse one was my Morph tank. I had read of others with the same issue, so since it was under warranty, I returned it to VS, along with the Morph base, asking them to make it fit flush. When I got it back, everything was flush. Now I'm wondering how they did it? Since it's no longer under warranty and this ohm issue was making me crazy, I opened the VS up myself. A YouTube video showed how easy it was, 3 screws. BUT, unless they changed 510 parts, I see no way to raise it up, there are no adjustment points, the wire and caps just thread together, and the 510 block sits in a slot. Guess I'll have to call VS to find out. Seeing as I do see a connection, perhaps it's just enough.

All I have so far is a 510/510 adapter, didn't help, those threads are short as well. Before totally losing my mind, I remember days a go I took the 510 pin/screw out of the bottom of the Kayfun v5, on this new model, all it does is hold in a bottom plate/cap. Put it back, and the ohms were good for awhile, then slowly began creeping up again. So I dismissed that as the problem, and went on to measuring 510 lengths thinking it had to be that. So after my first post earlier in this thread, I thought I'd take it off again to see if there was any juice under the bottom plate, nothing, and the 510 pin "seemed" tight. This time I made it really TIGHT, It does not have a lot of threading, non adjustable, but enough to hold the bottom plate/cap in place and of course make the positive connection. So far, after making the Atty 510 pin/screw SUPER TIGHT, the VS DNA200 is once again reading the proper ohms. It crept up from 27 to 28 ohms, which could be "refinement". Perhaps the flathead screw slot on the attys 510 pin is getting backed out a tiny bit whening screwing on and off devices. I'll reserve judgement until I see no ohm drifting for a few days. I'm praying this is the issue as after opening the VS, which is quite easy, I see no way to adjust the height of the mods spring loaded 510 pin. BTW: Totally agree on not locking the ohms on a DNA200 if at all possible. If one really has an ohm or connection issue, it seems that with locked ohms, the problem could be disguised from the user. Thanks dwcraig1, you have always been helpful.

I'm having a difficult time myself, with ohm creeping. First time I've ever had the issue on my VaporShark DNA200. I do single coil titanium builds, on many tanks. I have NEVER had to "lock ohms", better to let the DNA200 handle "refinement". Besides if your cold readings are off to start, locking ohms would be pointless. My first problems came with my new Kayfun v5. My build is rock solid at .28 ohms. I see proper ohm readings on 4 other mods. I've seen it at 28 ohms a few times on the K5, then it slowly starts to climb. Since the K5 reads properly on the other mods, and all my other tanks work fine on the VS, I don't get proper readings on the CoilMaster 521 Tab either. I started to take caliper measurements on some of my tanks, as well as the mods 510 connections. So far the Kayfun v5 has the shortest 510 of all my atties, and both the CoilMaster Tab, and the VaporShark, have the deepest 510 connectors. I'm thinking the connection point is just barely meeting. This is the only thing that makes sense to me at this point. BUT, I'm not 100% sure as I do get a reading on the VS and CM, and I can fire and Vape on the VS. I opened up the VS, but there is no way to adjust the 510 pin higher. And the new Kayfun v5 does NOT have an adjustable 510. So I may have to start "locking ohms" on the VS, assuming I see the correct ohms when the Atty is cold.

Just received my first Kayfun, the new v5. Teamed with the VaporShark DNA200, makes a perfect couple.

Indeed, the Cubis Stainlees Steel "316" prebuilt coils work ok on an Eleaf Pico and Evic VTC Mini, in their own SS preset, but NO vapor when used at the known TCR of 0092. Same behavior on my DNA200. Using a TCR of 0102, gets close to their SS preset. Therefore we can deduce that the coils are NOT 316 SS, and the higher TCR matches more closely that of SS 304. This kind of false product information on things we breath should not be tolerated at all. I have written them, with no response. Another reason to build your own coils, but using prebuilts is convenient at times and should be a viable option!

If it's grade #1, the TCR should be the same as any other TRUE G1. No issues here with my new Temco Titanium G1 builds, using the same TCR on all my devices including DNA200, and Evic Mini's.

Actually was an RDA. An original "Stumpy RDA", modified by Catfish Attys, for bottom fed. I already own a clone version of the Stumpy for dripping. Buy originals when I can afford to, and clones to test ones I'm not sure of. My Chalice 3, is a $140 original, most I've ever paid for an Atty. Then you have your $15 Cubis tanks, that offset the occasional pricy purchase, called "cost averaging"!

I can be lazy too, but if you don't attempt to do an alcohol wipe at least once on any new batch of wire, you wouldn't know. Even if my first sample seemed clean, I would still take the few minutes to clean every piece before I wrap my coil. Most titanium builds can last for months, with some manual or pulse cleanings and new wicks so you save a lot of time there. I just got a $130 RTA, it did not appear to have anything on it when I cleaned it. Later I wanted to install the included chuff tip, took a q-tip with 99% ISO, and was shocked at the crap that came off from inside. This was some kind of black coated gun metal used on this Stainlees steel Atty. It's just common sense these days to take the time to CLEAN EVERYTHING. IMHO

On the Unkaman site they explain that the titanium is "acid washed", that's why the wire is dull, not shiny. Then these jewelry folks tumble their creations SHINY! Does not make a performance difference to us, but some were confused when it was not shiny like some other Ti wire. I don't know how the Temco Ti wire is going to look, they deliver slow for some reason.

I didn't find the Unkaman too dirty at all, barely anything wiped off on a vaportowel after a 99% alcohol scrub, but wire can vary from batch to batch. It's sold for jewelry so I assume folks use an ultrasonic cleaner anyways, been meaning to buy one. Main problem is I had to slow pulse anneal it, as is springy. Then I found Rio Grande, another jewelry site that folks recommended, and their 24 gauge was much softer, problem there is they did not sell it in 26,28 gauge. Now that Temco, a trusted vendor is selling annealed titanium in all the gauges I use, it will be a one stop shop. Should get my first batch from them this week, used them before for all my old Kanthal needs.

Could you describe the circumstances of these ignitions? That is a scenario that I would like to avoid replicating. Thanks[/QUOTE] Taking non-annealed ti and annealing it manually so it is not springy. The end result may be uneven, and a hot spot may form when vaping...pop.[/QUOTE] That's your experience, NOT a fact. Been annealing wire and vaping on it with none of the issues you state, for a long time, as well as many, many others. And to Johan, now with Temco.com offering all grades of Titanium that is already annealed (soft), you should have no concerns.

There is no hard schedule release. If you don't want to run the latest beta version, the one before it was solid. To get the latest features you obviously need to run the latest, and so far it's working fine. Just remember you can always roll it back if you encounter a problem. Not much to lose.

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"Create new"? In what screen, what menu? Where is this missing?

I think what the OP is seeing, is on first click when looking at creating a new custom TCR, the field shows .006. I see the same thing. I assume you just have to enter a NEW number, but I have not tested it. All other new features seem to be working properly.

Doing ones homework should be mandatory or at least logical. The SSV wire has been discussed and beaten to death, do a search on the ECF site. It's NOT grade #1 titanium, hence its own special TCR profiles. You pay more and get less, but folks simply ignore the facts. However, the news that Tempco is finally carrying G1 Titanium is great news, even better that's it's ANNEALED (soft)! The Rio Grande titanium (soft) has only been available in 24 gauge, which works great, but now there are more choices in gauge with Tempco. Breath whatever you like, if I'm doing Titanium, then I want GRADE #1, nothing less, especially a hyped grade 2, with whatever else is included. Finding the proper TCR for G1 titanium on SteamEngine is quick and easy.