mactavish

If you buy the 99.9% copp er plug as I did, I was advised to use the actual resulting resistance reading. In my case the Vaporshark DNA200 was ".05", or 005, don't remember after I plugged in the number. It was low! /topic/66031-topic/

Exactly, folks keep thinking the "temp protect" message is a warning, better to think of it as CONFIRMATION that you achieved the temperature you set your device to! If you like a cooler vape, lower your temp, but set your wattage to at least obtain it. I can't speak toward the possible connection issues, as I would correct one issue at a time.

I wrote to djlsbvapes a week ago, inviting him to this thread if he cared to respond and explain his tests and temperature results. Guess he's busy.

Agreed, a CSV file should be more accurate, but that's the contention here, that in this reviewers findings, they are not. I do know the difference between both types. I've watched a few of his review videos, he seems quite knowledgeable, and handy with his mod breakdowns. On his website,, he lists his temperture results (I'll paste them below for easy access), and while I do not know what temp sensor he uses, or its accuracy, if one assumes he does each test exactly the same, with the only difference being a CSV or TCR input, that's what makes the theory interesting. Sure, the atomizers and builds would have to be stable etc. But this guy is no dummy in my opinion. Without a sensor, I can't duplicate his tests, one could only try making two presets in Escribe, and then try and feel if one can detect a temperature difference in the vape, switching between the two. I mostly use Titanium wire, he claims a 26 degree higher temperature in the CSV file over the TCR, that's quite a bit higher, should be noticeable by feel, if true. When I get some free time I'll attempt it myself, on my Vaporshark DNA200. But I don't think this guy is just making things up, would serve no purpose, he seems pretty serious about his reviews, which why not quite as detailed as PBusardo's, they are certainly more technical then most other reviewers. ------------------------------------------------------------- PASTED FROM REVIWERS WEB PAGE: Here are my findings on the DNA200: Regarding the temperature, in my opinion if you setup your Temperature Control profiles with the TCR of each type of wire, you will have an more accurate temperature and more stable vape as you can see on my testing below: DNA 200 TC Tests: (TCR is using each wire TCR added on the "Special" Button under each profile on Escribe Software) (CSV is using the CSV files downloaded from Steam Engine) All tests where conducted with the temperature of 400ºF NI200: TCR: 397ºF CSV: 389ºF Titanium: TCR: 403ºF CSV: 429ºF 304SS: TCR: 401ºF CSV: 395ºF 316LSS: TCR: 404ºF (0.00100 instead of 0.00092 DNA200 doesn’t allow that TCR) CSV: 387ºF

I was asking "watcher64". Assuming he tests exactly the same with his temperature probe, he does publish different temperature results with TCR Versus CSV inputs. Guess I'm going to have to write and bother the SteamEngine author again, maybe it's the holidays, but surprised no official response from Evolv, they really need to either hire more help, or get some product experienced moderators here to help out. This entire forum is getting like the Apple site, just end users helping each other if they can, and little input from the source!

When a new update is made public, it will show up when you start EScribe. Should show up on the bottom left corner in a new box.[/QUOTE] Waiting for approved, tested firmware updates in the Escribe software is the "approved" method, but if you want to try the latest BETA versions then you will have to follow the first post in this thread, and download and install manually. The last beta has been out for a LONG time, and works well, giving many more advanced settings, not sure why it has not been made available via Escribe. While I like the DNA200, and supporting a USA company, I get the feeling their overall company budget does not allow them to hire as many software developers as let's say a Chinese company like Joytech that has pumped out firmware updates, every few weeks, now adding manual TCR input on a $40 mod, vaping right now on both my Vaporshark DNA200, and EVic VTC Mini, very comparable, other then the huge price difference. It seems so far since I've owned my first Evolv product, that they are short, personal wise, the programmers to keep up, and I hope they get it together! My example is the overwhelming demand for the simple swapping of being able to set temperature on the main screen instead of the fairly useless wattage mode for TC vaping. This has been requested for a long time, both on this site, and made a bit of a joke, by almost every online reviewer. Joyetech updated its mods firmware in a few short weeks, with some complicated programming, but we still can't easily change the temperature setting, on our advantced temperature controlled DNA200 devices. Evolv, please hire some more experienced programmers, or lose potential sales to these far less expensive Chinese boards that other then extra software options, still deliver a high quality vape!

Doesn't explain the differences in his temperture results between the two, did you watch the video?

Yeah, I got 005, as well, have not done the full battery test yet. How can you tell your cells are NOT balanced with the 3.09 cutoff, that's the stock setting I'm still using? EDIT: Just looked, Actually, the VS setting that it came set to is 3.05

Some newer mods, like my EVic VTC Mini, with firmware 3.0, allows for manual TCR input, but not CSV. If one or the other is more accurate temp wise, Evolv could boost their chip has an advantage. I believe temp accuracy is important, so let's see who weighs in on this subject, now that all the forum spam is gone for now.

30 views, no opinions, guess I stumped the band!

When SANTA comes down the Mod Chimney!

Anyone ever hear from VaporShark on why they use 10.22 for watt hours, when most use 9.99? Maybe that's what they got when testing a brand new battery, which is supposedly a "FullyMax FB900HP-3S, 11.1V Lipo pack", same ones sold on Evolv site. I have not tried to pry mine out of the case yet. Not a huge difference, but can effect battery readout. I usually only see a 98% when my battery is finished charging, only once did it ever show 100%. Way back in August, someone posted on ECF, that VS responded to their question on buying a replacement battery from them, and they said "coming soon". I just looked at their website and see no such battery for sale, only a send in program to replace a DNA40 battery, odd?

FROM: http://www.djlsbvapes.com/dna200/ This reviewer seems quite knowledgeable, watched a bunch of his videos, he does use an external temperature probe, I have no idea of its accuracy or his results. Just thought I would post this and see if there are any opinions on this topic, or a response from Evolv, as while both methods can be used in Escribe software, it seems that even Evolv recommends the downloading of appropriate CSV files from SteamEngine,com and importing them, and using a manual entry of TCR value when CSV is not available, or you prefer to use your own customized value. A paste from the reviewer link above: "Regarding the temperature, in my opinion if you setup your Temperature Control profiles with the TCR of each type of wire, you will have an more accurate temperature and more stable vape as you can see on my testing below:"

I was not too happy when I first ran the atomizer analizer. The threading seemed loose, I got various ohm readings, and as I tightened it down, it showed no ohms, and then untightning I got various readings, I could get as low as a .007 ohm reading between the no ohm reading, and the looser adapter screwed in position. I went back and re-read the case resistance thread, and noted: MAKE SURE TO RESET THE MOD RESISTANCE TO ZERO BEFORE RUNNING TEST!!! This of course means connecting the MOD, it downloads your current settings, then reset the mod resistance to ZERO, upload that back to the mod, then use the copper adapter, and run the atomizer analizer. (THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY FOR OTHERS) After doing this, screwing in the copper adapter worked PERFECTLY, screwed all the way till snug, gave me a reading of .005 on my Vaporshark DNA200, which came with an average setting of .007. I set Escribe to 85% (Evolve recommends using 80-90% of your test ohm reading) of my .005 result, to a final resistance setting of ".00425". HAPPY NOW! Hope this helps others!

I ordered two, will make a great surprise Christmas gift for a fellow Vaporshark user! Thanks again for taking an idea for a needed accessory that hopefully someday all mod makers will include with their mods, and GETTING IT MADE! Hats off to you!!!

Yeah, learned the hard way about preheat and thin wire. While my normal setting of 100 watt preheat and middle punch works fine for my 24 g Ti builds in a STM, the quick heat up in the squonker atties can be way too much, hot legs, and cotton fires. I also somehow suspect my hot lead legs are not just due to extra length, but the thinner wire seems to get pulled to the sides of the post screws, and not directly down on the wire. These squonker atties are CHEAP, the posts and screws, not the highest quality, but then again, many seem to report great results, so I always look to what I may be doing wrong. Most of those that have responded are using kanthal, so I'm still not sure if wire type in these type of atties matters or not. Then you have the added connections, which we know TC vaping does not always like either. To be honest, I thought for the small investment it would be fun to try the Fountain V2, and the Skyfall, but both of these devices are far too much work for me to enjoy them, if I ever got them working, and perhaps the happy reviewers are mostly using non TC modes, kanthal etc. I enjoy a challange so I may revisit them later.

I have 26. This was my build. http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?a=true&mat=ti1&s=dp&r=0.2&hfnw=25&awg=28&id=2.5&ll=10&ws=0.25

I like 24 gauge better myself, but to get the property build in this base, I had to go with 28. I can't spread the coils any further, they are already far apart.

I find Sweet Spot (Titanium alloy, it's not pure Ti) you can get red hot leads especially if they're >3 mm in length. Also most of the polished Titanium lost ~1 gauge from being polished. A 5.5 suggests 6 out and 5 in as a 'U' shape .. try making the coil a pure 6 warp with 90-degree bends (quick and dirty example): Hot legs from Sweet Spot Titanium (alloy of TiFe; note grade 1-5): [/QUOTE] I'm using G1 titanium from Unkaman in these builds. My coils are not wide enough to make the post holes. So even with a turn as you show, I have to go out left and right with bare wire leads to make it to the posts, hope I'm explaining it well.

Thought this message I left in an ECF forum pertains to the preheat settings. I have not figured out how to tame the hot legs I get when doing a build where the lead legs are long and exposed. I'm a newb in building. Turning off all preheat settings was the only current solution I could find to tame the hot legs and actual cotton fire issues I've had, on these squonker type atomizers. No issues with preheat in my normal STM builds. PASTED POST: Well I just spent an hour building a dual coil for the Skyfall, which is a pump tank below, that feeds the RDA, that sits above it, basically a tank squonker. Annealed the 28 gauge titanium, then made the two coils, slow pulsed them on the mod. Wicked with KGD. Test firing at my normal STM setting of 470f, at 25 watts, with the top cap off I could see red hot legs that are long going into the posts. Just on two, not all four. This is the same issue I had with similar build on the Fountain, which is a similar tank squonker, it uses a squeeze bottle, like a Reo. These red hot legs can and will catch the cotton on fire, as I've seen it, and of course makes for a nasty vape. I spent so much time making this build, I did not want to give up. I had a feeling the normal preheat of 100 watts on my Vaporshark DNA200, may be the cause, as that's when the leads go hot, on first button fire. Went into Escribe, and turned OFF all preheat settings. No more red hot legs! Seems to be working. I did have to lower my temperature from my normal Ti of 470f, to 350f, and increased my wattage from 25 to 35. BUILD: Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread. According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts. I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!

I use the Steam Engine site for its DNA200 Titanium TCR for both my Rio Grande and Unkamen G1 Ti, works fine.

Thought I'd create a thread where: LavaBox DNA200 owners can post their own "Case Analyzer" results, to compare. Took a few hours to run, and these were my results: CASE COOLING TIME CONSTANT: 423.64 CASE HEATING TIME CONSTANT: 736/44 CASE USB CHANGE TEMPERATURE RISE: 11.25 F 19.73 F/A

Sorry about bringing up an old thread but.... I am going to build a unitwith two 50w resisters. Actually these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087ZCYTK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary I am assuming that I'll be good to run the test at 50w without any issues. Am I assuming correctly? Thanks Mike[/QUOTE] You may find this interesting, /topic/67519-topic/?do=findComment&comment=907661

Very nice. Just a matter of making the time to make one.

If you get a chance, put up a quick photo of you wiring and this rig. Interested in how you connect it to the mod. This is affordable, but on the large size, guess it can't be made much smaller.