TorturedZen

Як діють закони про вапінг в Україні?

Ok that is what I thought. Thanks for the reply. By the way, your replies always show up in a foreign language and I have to get them translated. I don't know if it's this site or my browser.

I'm assuming the power should be set before Saving the puff for Replay, but does changing the wattage on-the-fly have an effect on the mode ?

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It asks if you have installed a new coil because there has been a change in the resistance from what you are locked in at. With temp sensing materials like SS316 or Ti1 there's no reason to ever lock your ohms in, unless the atty being used is all jangly and ohm readings are unstable. Locking the ohms in with temp sensing materials will become a problem because the nature of those materials allows for temp fluctuations. You're confusing the DNA chip and defeating the purpose of Temp Control.

This happens on both my Mirage 75C and Drone Squonker 250C. But here's the thing...if the batteries are switched out quickly the devices will retain the clock settings. OTOH, if the batteries are removed and not replaced in a timely manner (I've never actually timed the "cutoff") then the settings will be lost. So it helps to have some fully charged spares ready to go when you do a swap. Give that a try and hopefully that will help.

Technology. Who da thunk!

Hey thank you very much!

Once Theme Designer is opened, one of the 5 tabs that we see is Indicator Light, a function which allows you to modify the colors that will be displayed on the little LED. In some themes I've seen that the indicator colors can be modified to show a gradient effect within the color. I have tried (in vain) to figure out how that's done but nothing has worked. There are little boxes with a "+- x-<-" The Plus symbol obviously adds a color, X removes it but the arrow symbol has me confused. Is that what is needed to do the gradient...and if so, how? If not then how are the gradient colors accomplished?? And what does the arrow symbol do? If anyone knows how this works can you share your knowledge please?

Got it. I'll check my Drone for that issue.

So you're saying the mod is showing a different room temp after you come back 20 min later? How much difference are we talking here...2-3 degrees?

Ok, well it seemed to work for what my settings were. I have dual fused SS Claptons at 0.09 on a Wotofo Flux. Drone set to 65w and 430F, preheat set to 100w , target temp 300F and Punch set to 5. It was ramping up quite slowly but after seeing your post it occurred to me that maybe my preheat settings were too low. Edit to ask: Is there some general rule of thumb for preheat setting based on the other parameters?

So glad I stumbled on to this topic. Seems I've been using my Preheat settings way below what it should have been. Followed @Wayneo's setting and Holy Crap, my Drone just came alive!! Thanx @Wayneo

Kanthal is not a temp sensing material. Replay mode requires temp sensing materials so get yourself some SS316L or Titanium 1.

REPLAY mode only works with temp sensing materials like Stainless Steel, Titanium, etc. Kanthal is NOT a temp sensing material. It will not work with REPLAY. Really surprised none of you knew this!

Why are you being so defensive? This isn't an argument in any form whatsoever. My questions were merely out of curiosity, which is on the opposite end of the confrontational spectrum. Yes, this has nothing to do with your original question, but you are claiming to be able to look at your screen while vaping. To me, that means it is at your mouth, you are pressing the firing button and you are inhaling. Am I correct? If so I would simply like to know how that is accomplished so I can try it also!

Not understanding this thought process. How can you possibly see your screen while puffing. Even if you hold it at some weird angle and strain your eyeballs you can just barely see it. Unless you've got a really tall atomizer or a curvy drip tip it doesn't work. Least not for me. Do you hold a mirror up in front of the mod?

I can't imagine having to to go through that much BS. I have the Lost Vape Mirage DNA 75C and I have not had a single issue you describe here. I can throw any kind of temp sensing coil at it SS316, Ti, SS430 spaced or not spaced, simple wraps or advanced claptons,,,and my Mirage will happily fire it up. Your post is a few months old as of this reply so I'm hoping you got Replay mode figured out by now. It isn't rocket science.

Here's my screenshot. Atty is Augvape Boreas V2, spaced SS 316L dual fused claptons...

Correction on those numbers. I meant to type 0.1 - 0.2 My apologies...I was tired when I posted last night. I'll get a screen shot up here later today.

All my builds are SS316L using a TCR of 92. Average ohms between 0.15 to 0.20. Coils are always cold/room temp. I usually set temps around 400-420, 60-70 watts no preheat. First couple of hits are excellent. Then TC kicks in, cuts the wattage and compromises my vape. No matter which atty I use or what build, it still hits TC way too soon. Tried lowering wattage, raising temp thresholds... same thing. So now, when my Therion hits TC I'll remove the atty then quickly put it back on. It detects new resistance since the atty is still hot (usually only a 0.01-0.02 difference) asks if it's a new coil, so I tell it YES. (hope this is making sense so far). I then lock the new ohms detected and the vape goes back to normal, without TC kicking in. I understand you shouldn't have to lock ohms unless the atty is wonky but all mine are solid and I've always double checked for loose leads etc. So what the hell am I doing wrong? Or not doing? And please don't say SS316L is a crap shoot. It works fine on other devices. Thank!

I could be misunderstanding you here but alien wire, claptons and such aren't anything special in terms of build profiles. Your quad-trak alien barbed wire laser etched coil made from SS316L is still going to have the same TCR properties as a single round wire 316L coil. Even if the coil consists of differing materials you can pull a custom CSV from Steam Engine, upload it to your Vaporshark and give it a name. Pretty basic like Sam said. In terms of atomizer profiles that's more a personal thing. The DNA chip doesn't care what atty you're using as long as the connection is solid.

This might be a stupid question but in Escribe, on the Mod tab, have you configured the correct battery type in terms of capacity and watt hours?

Thanks for replying. The last time I worked with a ZIF socket was putting CPUs onto PC motherboards. What's the difficulty level should I have to replace the screen?