VapingBad

The confusion may come from the DNA 75 having an 18650 and a LiPo setting, but for the 200 and 250 you need LiPo for the battery type. The battery type is mainly for the charge characteristics, both LiPos and 18650s etc charge to 4.2 V. The discharge curve is for the battery meter and while not necessary nor causing no damage not having one for your batteries you will get a more accurate battery metre.

You are not getting close to the temp limit you have set in that screen (450 F) and just vaping at 30 W, it could just be that the cold res had not refined when you got the message earlier. Refinement is a process where the board tracks the coil res against the board temp as the coil cools during idle to get a more accurate base resistance reading.

I think it takes a few minutes before the back end system copies your privileges over, try again in 10 mins and pleas let us know if that worked.

Yeah depending on the brand etc cotton starts to scorch in the low 400 F range, I vape around 400 F with 100% PG that has a lower boiling point than VG, actually I have a cold ATM and one build I have turned down to 333 F. I find sometimes adding a wrap or two to the coil rather than turning the temp up, this spreads the heat more and can give you more vapour if you are vaping at the temp limit. Twisted coils also give more vapour for their size because they have more surface area, just like Claptons etc, but much simpler to make. We are all different and what suites me may not suit you, but IMO sufficient coil surface area is often overlooked YMMV.

I get great results with 26 AWG SS316L dual 2 mm ID 8/9 wrap coils and the built in profile up to about 50 W, but twisted handles higher power better and IMO gives better flavour due to higher surface area. With temp limiting and especially SS you have to be very careful to get dual coils balanced extremely closely because the resistance changes the device tracks are so small and of course very good connections. My favourite SS build ATM is dual coil triple twisted 0.2 mm, 2.5 mm ID 8 wraps, twisted 0.3 mm is almost as good.

Check the cells are balanced in EScribe, all at 4.19 - 4.2 V, if not leave it charging for a long while after it appears to have finished charging for it to balance charge the low cells.

That is exactly what it should be doing, it only asks when the values are close, with those values it can be reasonable sure it's a new coils. The only way it could be the same coil is if it was very very hot Ni, Ti or NiFe.

Personally I find the built on 316 profile great, according to http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?r=0.41&hfnw=30&awg=26&id=1.12&ll=0 your coil would need to be 1 mm inner diameter for that res with 6 wraps and only good up to about 12 W so I doubt it is SS316L wire. You can make a custom material in EScribe and put in the TCR that works on the YiHi for that wire. You will find a difference between the DNA and the YiHi, the Evolv will be smoother it regulated by varying the voltage and the YiHi regulate by varying the length and gaps of higher voltage pulses. I found I had to set the power and temp lower with the YiHi boards.

It is not meant to ask every time, only when it is not sure.

It should work with both versions of EScribe (SP3 is an EScribe and DNA 60, 200 & 250 FW update, but SP4 is ESCribe and DNA 250 fw update).

It only ever asked if it's not sure if it is a new build or not, so if it is getting the resistance right then it is more like an improvement than a bug.

Charging by USB is fine on all the DNAs, I fine the 250 charges so fast I just top up charger for 20 mins about 3 times a day (10 Wh LiPo), with 3 18650s it would be roughly equivalent to 0.8-1.0 A free-standing charger (10 W / 3 cells). If you have your battery capacity set too low it will reduce the charge rate to 1 C. I am not sure if you are saying you don't get enough current with your wall wart or not, I get lower rate from USB3 PC ports, but wall warts and power banks I always get 1.95 A or more with a good cable.

Do you have the latest firmware (V1.2SP3), you can see the version in the bottom right had side of device monitor.

They use

1 You now need to set Options - User Interface - Advanced to see AA button. 2 yes that's correct

Moved post into that topic

I would check it is heating up evenly by getting to to glow dimly in power mode, I wouldn't make ss316 glow bright orange it start to disintegrate.

Are you using the latest fw V1.2SP3, if not that is the first thing to try, I looked on Steam-Engine and the TCR is the same as their TCR for 316L so you could try the built in 316 profile.

What is your mod res set to? Try zeroing it.

150 or when it gets close to temp depending on the value of punch, punch 0 = within 160 F of temp, 11 = within 10 F of temp IIRC

Looks like the battery has worn out and needs replacing.

This is a sort of wild guess, something worth checking anyway, with an external fire switch it needs to be isolated completely from the body (ground). I would take the batteries out and use a multi metre to check neither switch wire has a low resistance to ground when pressed.

It is the retails responsibility, then maybe the mod makers, Evolv are going above and beyond here trying to help you when they don't have to.

It's not that bad I have sent one from the UK before and they pay the return postage.

They recently unified the fw and EScribe version numbers, so there may not be a fw version for every board with every release, there hasn't been so far 1.2SP3 has the latest release of EScribe and all firmware, but some of the fw will be lower numbers. 1.2SP4 has 250 fw & EScribe update. From my installation the latest fw versions are: DNA 60 1.2SP3 DNA 75 2016-06-05 DNA 200 1.2SP3 DNA 250 1.2SP4 (early release)