maawolfe36

Just an update to close out this thread in case anyone else has a similar issue. When I took apart the mod, the battery had a puncture on one end. Best I can tell, it was shoved into the mod too tight and pressed against the 510 which poked a hole into the battery. Either that, or maybe I dropped it and forgot. Anyway it had a hole in it which I think damaged the battery. So I bought a new battery from a hobby shop, and had to cut the lead and solder a new connector on it since the long wire wouldn't fit in the mod. But I've got it working now. I'm a bit wary of the original battery. It claimed to be 1500mAh and 20A, but when I went to the hobby shop they carried hundreds of different LiPos, and there weren't any that were more than 1350mAh that were the right size, anything higher than that and the batteries were quite a bit larger. Also, the 1350mAh 30C battery that I replaced it with seems to be lasting quite a bit longer between charges. I'm thinking the original was probably labeled with too high specs, like how a lot of 18650s aren't what they claim.

I left it to charge for several hours, and when I checked Device Monitor here's what I see. Basically, it's showing full charge when resting, but when I fire the mod, cell 2's voltage drops drastically.

Thanks, I checked and while it's not extremely low, one cell is lower than the others. Two are reading as 3.9V while the other is around 3.6V. Could this imbalance be the problem? And how can I fix it?

Hey, so I noticed earlier today that my Panzer was saying "Check Battery" even at 80% charge, so I fully charged it and it's still saying "Check Battery" even at 100%. I've never done anything advanced with eScribe, just TCR and themes, so I don't know how to run battery diagnostics or anything like that. Has anyone had this issue, and is there anything I can do about it?

Ah man, thanks again for the help! I can't believe I didn't think of twisting the 32g, been vaping for years and that thought didn't even cross my mind since it's been a while since I last used a twisted coil. I'll definitely try that, thanks!! I'm thinking I'll probably try to build it close to your builds, around 0.5-0.6 ohms, and put it in my Aromamizer. I think around 40-50W would be just right for a TC tank vape. I'll probably just keep using power mode for my RDAs since I'm a bit of a cloud chaser when I'm using RDAs, but I think the TC in a tank would be great for when I'm driving or don't feel like dripping for any other reason.

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. All I have in SS right now is 24g and 32g, bought them to make some high-power/low-resistance claptons, but with 24g it looks like I'd need way too many wraps to get to 0.4 ohms so I guess I'll just have to use this stuff in power mode and get some thinner wire for TC mode. Just out of curiosity, what settings do you use for your SS coils in TC? I'm pretty new to TC in general, and I don't really even know where to begin with setting the temp and watts, though I seem to recall reading somewhere that cotton begins to burn around 420F.

Hey, I'm having some problems with my DNA 200 mod and I'm hoping you folks can help out. It seems no matter what I do, I can't get TC mode to work with my SS coils. I started with fused claptons. But since it wasn't working properly, I decided to try just normal parallel coils. But that isn't working either. Here's what's happening: It doesn't recognize the temperature. I used eScribe's Device Monitor to check, and also fired the mod while looking at the built-in display, and on the mod it just shows "---F" and on Device Monitor it just shows "?" on the temperature. I've tried everywhere from 200F to 600F, 20W to 150W, and every permutation/combination of those variables, and it just won't read the temperature. Most of the time it fires at full power, but sometimes it will randomly decide to fire at 0.2W as if it's already hot but it doesn't produce vapor. Oh and I almost forgot to mention, I'm using UD brand 316L SS wire. Currently I've got a 0.1 ohm parallel 24ga dual coil build on it. I've also tried up to a 0.2 ohm build, using Claptons, Fused Claptons, and parallel coils, haven't tried just a normal coil yet. Maybe it's just too much material in the atomizer for it to read? And I'm using TCR I got from Steam Engine for 316L SS. Here's the TCR values: "Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity" -100,0.894808435072142 0,0.9588476571924915 70,1 200,1.0721420643729191 400,1.1702552719200887 600,1.2568175278497145 800,1.335482796892342 If anyone has any advice on how to make this work, I'd really appreciate it, and if there's any info I forgot to provide please let me know and I'll add it. Fortunately I'm using SS so I'm not inhaling nickel or titanium oxides while I figure this out, at least SS is safe in power mode if I can't get this to work, but I've been told the DNA chip is excellent for TC so I'd love to get it figured out.

Thanks for the quick reply! I guess since I'm the only one who requested it (at least to your knowledge) it's probably not something I should be expecting in any near-future updates. Oh well, it's just a minor thing anyway. Thanks for the link, I'll check it out ASAP and probably upload the one I made on there

Hey, I'm new to this forum, just got a Panzer DNA200 a couple weeks ago and I've been having a blast creating custom screens and testing all the functions of eScribe. Got a question: is there a way to customize the battery icon? I think it would be really cool to use a custom battery icon, like for example if I made a Legend of Zelda theme the battery icon could look like hearts that go away as the battery is drained, etc. Also, is there a "standard" place where most people share DNA themes, or just deviantArt, imgur etc? I've found some fun themes from Google searching but they're not actual theme files, usually just screenshots of the eScribe software with the custom theme in it.