mikepetro

That would work.......

But, but, but, but..........

My hands are way too big, and my eyes way too old to solder inside of that 1 inch box.

If you were to create a 40w coil, most attys couldnt dissipate the heat generated by this test. I recommend a power resistor attached to a heatsink. One, or even better - both of these hooked in parallel, would work nicely. http://www.amazon.com/Mounted-Aluminum-Housed-Wirewound-Resistors/dp/B008IDAD76/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1445189600&sr=8-4&keywords=100w+1ohm+resistor Here was my approach, a bit overkill for just doing one bat, I wanted to be able test multiple brands.

TGT base, crimp on spade connector with a 2mm hole drill for the screws.

I am interested in the response to this. I have 10 degrees higher even after running case analyzer.

Was wondering if Evolv would be willing to share how they safely installed the boards once the battery was soldered (hard wired) to the board on the Reference Mods. The thought of NOT shorting something on the board to chassis while maneuvering it in there is a challenge for me.

Gonna pull the trigger on this, similar specs to John's but 60% less in price. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JU1VEQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Yes, read that before, but what, if anything, does the "board" do with this information? This blurb from the docs merely states the intent of each field, I am wondering if the board actually uses it, or is it just a design aide. I just brought an enclosure to market, and my values are dramatically different than most I have seen. Just trying understand the implications of it.

Yes, I am really curious about this too. Does the board do anything at all with these numbers? What are guidelines as to what good or bad number might be, and what are the consequences? My numbers are bit different than the first post, but then I am using a big hunk of aluminum.

0.25 ohms works as long as they are rated for enough watts.

You can change the buttons in eScribe as well, ie swap +/- buttons. I dont think the board has an accelerometer .

How long depends on what wattage. Only running the one resistor I wouldnt go above 40w. I dont have any experience running at that wattage. Testing a 1300mAh at 100w took about an hour all said and done. BTW, are you sure your resistor is 100W? Those big ones in my photos are only 50W.

No, it doesnt matter.

No problem, here is a better shot of the way I rigged mine up:

From the scrap metal bin at work. Search "surplus heat sink" or similar. You can get one for a few bucks on ebay most likely.

Really it all depends on "why" you are running the battery analyzer. If you just want to set your own battery once and forget it then go as cheap as you can. Really, the wH calculator comes pretty damn close for casual use. If you are going to be doing it multiple times then you might want to throw a proper heatsink at it. I mounted mine to a 3lb aluminum heatsink, but then I want to be able to test multiple battery brands without waiting forever..

I would assume so. I think it will be heavily influence by what that resistor is mounted to. If it it just in open air then it will probably get pretty hot. If it is mounted to some substantial metal then it will be better.

Four resistors spreads out the heatload. One resistor will get pretty hot unless you use low watts. I used 100w and they got warm but you could still hold them comfortably. 4 resistors in parallel is more akin to the attys we run, but I dont know it makes much difference. To me it all about heat dissipation and being able to run the test much faster.

My stab at a battery tester....

The Reference Mod's bigger 1350mAh brothers:

Was wondering what conditions cause the welcome screens to display? Latest 9/3 firmware. I have a beta unit, recently it has started displaying the welcome screens in as little as 30 minutes. Its just like the reboot that happens when you load new settings via escribe. I dont recall it doing that before. This seems different than simply sleep after inactivity. For what its worth it seems to happen more frequently in cold ambient conditions.

Never warmed up to squonking, and I have given it several tries. When GDEAL designed the DNA40 squonker I built a couple of them. Loved building them out, loved the whole concept, but migrated back to tanks before all was said and done.

Imagine an atty where you set the wattage based on how strong a hit you wanted, and the temp was a closed loop controller tied into an active juice delivery system. As temp sagged juice flow would slow, as temp reached setpoint juice flow would speed up. Of course this would also require a coil capable of handling the upper range of your wattage while fully saturated.