mikepetro

Well sort of. The first part about using more wattage as temp sagged is spot on. The dripper part, not so much IMHO. In a fully saturated dripper I would use a smaller coil if I was getting too much vapor, rather than run it under temp. A smaller coil wouldnt be able to "vaporize" as many ?L of juice per second as a larger coil can, assuming both are fully saturated. As for a high flow tank, I too would love to hear recommendations. I use the same tank you do.

VapingBad has a valid point. It all depends on your build and especially on juice delivery. If you can deliver (and vaporize) enough juice 200w might indeed produce more vapor than a casual user might desire. Right now, on my standard builds I do the same thing as BRDog, I set the wattage high and let temp throttle the wattage. That works because my builds are not supplying enough juice to require more than 15-20w to maintain temp, and that yields an acceptable amount of vapor for me. If my juice delivery provided more flow/throughput, the increased juice flow would have a cooling effect on the coil and it might take 120w to maintain the same temp which would also yield a heck of a lot more vapor - possibly too much. Wattage is indeed a vapor throttle, at a given temp, but only if you have the juice delivery to support it. I think the next big frontier is going to be truly adjustable juice delivery systems that can support high wattage temperature control. Perhaps something "active" like a micro-pump or an Archimedes' screw. Anyway, I too support making it configurable, allow the user to swap wattage and temp controls.

It is in the FAQ . You might want to take a look at it, lots of good info in there.

Cant answer to their decision on size, but 0-80 screws are ready available in sizes up to an inch long. http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=yq29id

Ideally....... A Banner template that pulled a few stats from the users account. But a "live" banner, ie the link hits your server and the html image/table is generated on the fly. Not sure which stats would have the most impact, maybe total puffs (= x cigarettes not smoked), avg watts, avg Temp and of course a nice Evolv Logo. More importantly though, the Ecigstats app displays a ton of nice data, but the "My Account" page displays very little. Suck my history in and display/graph/chart it etc....... Its all fluff, but its fun fluff!

ECigStats Cool concept, if rather rudimentary at the moment. Would love to see one of those html links that displays a banner with my personal stats. My stats only seem to accumulate on my website account from the time I first connected, but the app displays the mods entire history. Would love it if that history showed up on my webpage account.

On the MOD tab of Escibe you will see: The Ohm Lock Range is what percent of resistance change will trigger the "New Atty" question. In the above case of 25%, if the atty was originally at 0.1 ohms then 0.075 or 0.125 would trigger the question. ETA, one thought is that "maybe" you have locked the ohms significantly lower than the reality. Lets say you locked it at .1 ohms, but after the atty settled maybe a screw tension changed or 2 wraps of a coil arent touching now but were, and now your real resistance is 0.14 ohms, that might cause the New Atty question upon waking the mod from deep sleep. Dont hit the atty for an hour, plug it and run Atty Analyzer and see what the true resistance is that it is reading now. Sometimes atties settle in a little different than when you first build them.

Thanks guys, been asking for that one since very early on.........

Just as an FYI, at least 5 people who just received boards that I distributed are reporting that the fuse got soldered with White Side Up. It has led to confusion as some folks thought their fuse was blown as per the docs.

The next step would be to remove the battery and measure each one of the cells with a multimeter. See if you indeed have a dead Cell 1 and 2.

This "could" happen if you have this CAPACITY value set incorrectly for your battery. Or..... if the Discharge curve for your battery is significantly different than the default curve. Recommendations: Ensure you have the latest firmware loaded, a reasonable "Capacity" in Wh set, THEN fully charge the battery. According to John, a future version of the firmware is probably going to have a battery analyzer builtin to EScribe which will help determine CAPACITY more accurately.

Can you show us a screen cap of this section in Device Monitor?

You certainly "could", electrically it wouldnt matter. It is just a space and flexibility issue for most Modders. Just be careful not bridge the "vias" next to B+ with any solder, as they are part of the charger circuitry.

This is intended as a "Community Supported" consolidated resource list, so that good stuff doesn't get lost in all of the banter etc.. Feel free to add to it, lets make it a solid resource! The Resource List can be viewed here: https://goo.gl/b33IPB New Entries can be added here: https://goo.gl/Qmr6Is Cheers, Mike

The specs allow for 20g ???

Have you tried it without being connected via USB? Can you grab a screen capture of this part of your EScribe?

You might have to wait about 60 seconds or so for it to change to the Charging Screens. First it has to exhaust whatever you have set in the "Active Time, and then also exhaust the "Idle Time" timers. By default the two together is about 66 seconds unless you changed one of them.

The large DNA40 screen is identical.

USB cables can be problematic, try several Many are not the right type, some are Power oNly and not power/data. This was an issue many have found already, try several cable before giving up.

Those "helping hands" look very familiar!

23A on the input is all that is required. That power supply would be overkill for whats needed. The 55A is the OUTPUT max, not the INPUT.

XT30 is favored by a lot of folks. Good for 30A http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65440__XT30_Power_Connectors_for_30A_Continuous_Applications_5_Pairs_.html

I just tested it on my software and it greys out the "Cell Soft Cutoff" automatically when you select Power Supply. John, is cell monitoring automatically turned off when you select this? It "appears" so.

Good point! Plus, the delta between the input requirement and the onboard fuse rating is just too tight to really make a PTC work. The range between IHold and ITrip on those things just isn't precise enough to accurately spec for this application. I wonder if some small 24A 12v automotive fuse is available. It certainly would be easier to replace, of course you would still have to figure out why it blew.

The value you care about is the "HOLD" current. Theoretically 2 of those in parallel would still be higher than the 25A onboard fuse. Just one would trip prematurely. Plus, they are large, and obsolete.