dwcraig1

Check battery sag with device monitor, perhaps your batteries aren't up to the task...it's a starting point. What's the ohms of the coil?

Just guessing but because of the wording used here I suspect the case on the 60 to be different than the ones for the 75 and 250 "DNA 75 and 250: Choosing Black for buttons will drastically reduce your lead time. Matte Black cases are out of stock and will drastically increase your lead time. DNA 60: Choosing Silver for buttons, and Black, Red, or Blue for the case will drastically reduce lead time. Edit: I see that I misinterpreted as saying (60) Black, Red, or Blue for the case will drastically increase lead time not reduce lead time so now I have no idea.

Yes, a 250

I ordered one as soon as they went up for sale. I have no insider information. I suspect they will be Modcrate Silo 900's. To be honest I'm hoping for that.

That's the one that I start with but make quite of few changes. Thermal, battery curve and mod resistance are as Steve set them, here is mine: Edit: I tried it....it works. My_VT133.ecig

Download it from the link above (VU) and change the file extension ".PDF" to .ECIG

The only thing that I can think of that it might be is the firmware update that flashes the battery icon instead of giving the "WEAK BATTERY" message. Perhaps you might already have that.

I use the found here one: http://vapingunderground.com/threads/hcigar-vt133-dual-18650-dna200.171476/page-7#post-1181938 The extension needs to be changed from .pdf to .ecig I think I have it here: NewUpdatedVT133.ecig

If it works, even lights up with batteries, without the data cable supplying power then it's not the fuse. Or perhaps did you mean that you set it to "power supply" Your post #3 pretty much indicates it needs to be RMA'd https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

The best way to contact them for something of that nature is here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

I'll try here, might not be exactly right but here goes. The accuracy of the temp line for example 450F is determined by the accuracy of the TCR. With TCR of 0.00138 assuming it's way off the temp even though it says 450F may be only 300F (just guessing at the difference)

I believe that the earlier firmware uses weak battery message while the later firmware flashes the battery icon instead. What is your cell soft cut off set to and what is the battery's standing voltage when this first shows?

My guess would be a poor connection from battery to sled on one or more batteries with the AWT's. Have you checked these batteries with a meter, perhaps they are as EScribe says voltage wise?

Quite a journey

You should for sure try another cable.

Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM

Did you install EScribe on your friend's computer and try using it there as well, did you get the errors too?

Use Escribe/ Device Monitor and see what your charging, pack ,cell values are.

Your post above is correct but as I stated the board will only draw 23 amps from the pack. Also watt hours are the same in both examples. Watt hours is going to be what determines how long the pack lasts before needing recharged.

Well first off the batteries capacity will be the same whether parallel or series Example: 3 2500 mah 18650's = 27.75 watt hours no matter if parallel or series. The board will only draw up to 23 amps from the batteries but because it's a buck converter it will output as high as 55 amps @ 9 volts. Edit: besides it won't work, 7.4 - 11.1 volt pack yes, 3.7 volt pack no.

Great

You might try uninstalling EScribe and reinstalling with AVG disabled.

I've been using it for quite a few years, it does a good job. I only run it on when I feel I might have "done" something.....LOL Another good utility is CCleaner, been using that for a number of years as well. http://filehippo.com/download_ccleaner/ I don't think it will help with your current problem but it's another great free program.

Are you able to pull those negative contacts out of the sled? I'm wondering if you could put a blob of solder in the center where the battery contacts. Kind of Mickey Mouse but that's what I would do. I'd use silver bearing solder preferably, the stuff for water pipes. Regular solder would work just as well I suppose, might have to clean them once in awhile.

Might try running Malwarebytes, good to do anyway. No sense getting the paid version as you can run the free one with the same results, it's just not real time monitoring. http://filehippo.com/download_malwarebytes_anti_malware/