giz_60

What do you mean by intermittently detects the coils?...not properly identifying the installed materials?

Well, that at least that verifies that the wire was the cause of the down/left button to act like it did. It would appear, now this is pure speculation based on info available, that there was an issue in the past of the down/left button not working, so someone tried to remedy the issue by adding the wire to connect the switch direct instead of through the board circuitry, and soldered it to the wrong pin. If you have a meter, you check continuity between the switch...where the wire was soldered to...and the #4 pin.

Hope this helps.... DNA200 Fuse.pdf

No offense taken...you should be able to tell if the wire has been added by the solder joints. Also, there are no other wires coming from the other switch either. It's possible that there was some kind of issue & someone added the wire to get the down button working & soldered it to the wrong pin...at this point, it is a guessing game, since you got the device second hand...Good Luck!!

I didn't see the second board in your picture till I blew it up...if the #5 pin on that board is connected to the #5 pin on the DNA 75 board, then the down button on that board is connected to the 'up' circuit on the 75 board. Judging by your picture, that wire appears to have been added on...Remove it at your own risk, but that's what I would try.

Sure doesn't look like a 75 board...check the difference from this picture off of Evolv's website... Button layout is completely different, as well as components on the board....markings on the board, etc...you may have a cloned board. But it appears that the black wire has been added & connected to pin #5 is probably why the down button is also activating 'up' as well. You might try removing the black wire & see if that fixes your issue.

I have run battery analyzer (Escribe) on every brand of battery that I have owned (analyzing an IJoy 26650 at this moment)...all when fresh...and have found that the Wh calculators values, perfect situation, are always slightly higher than the the actual, real life, values. Everyone may get a slightly different Wh value depending on the load used during the test, wiring in the device, etc. The value I actually got on the 30q's was 16.9...thankfully, this value has no ill effect on the battery performance or to the quality of ones vaping experience & is only to improve the accuracy of the battery indicator, to the actual level of charge left in the battery. So, you can use whatever value works best for you... edit: A few feet of Kanthal,a build deck & a house fan are what I use to run the test...supplies needed

Judging by the picture you posted, it appears that the #6 pin has never been soldered on...indicating that the board has probably been replaced & whoever installed it, has wired both of the switches to the same circuit...double check the wiring from the switches to the board!

Battery analyzer...

Sony_VTC6.csv

2 X Sony_VTC6_Battery_Curve.csv Wh is 18.78

According the person who posted that .csv file, the Wh's for those batteries is 29.19..post #2 of this thread

Open the zipped folder...copy the file & paste it to your desktop...then try loading it into Escribe

Is the file you are trying to open have a .csv extension on it?

I just checked it & the .csv file will load in Escribe. Move the .csv file to you desktop & load it from there

that is a .zip folder....the file is inside the folder

Try downloading this one... 3-Sony_VT6_18650.zip

What kind of atomizer are you using?

You would think, but its kinda like a computer...anything not saved to a storage device, will be lost if power is disrupted...profiles etc. are written to the eprom & the res readings are on the fly..ram

That happens on my 75's as well, unless I plug in the usb so as to not lose power to the board. If I forget to plug in the usb, it will take a bit for the refinement to readjust to the original res. I believe its actually reading the res of the atty when you insert the new cell...

If the LED is giving you a indication that it is charging, then the board is receiving voltage from the usb cord. Are you stating that it is not charging due to the % on the battery indicator on the device screen? If so, it could be because the battery profile is incorrect for the type of battery you are using, which can throw off the indicator. You can either run the battery analyzer (recommended) or plug in the profile attached... Samsung_30Q.csv

That option isn't available on the 75...

It's a reboot...not a reset..if you are wanting to reset to defaults, use the "Restore Defaults" under the General Tab