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giz_60

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Everything posted by giz_60

  1. Yes, you can do that for any website, but most will require it to re-open the browser...
  2. I'm sure alot of you DNAer's out there know about this, but not having found any info in the forum about this thought I would just throw this out there & share. You can save Steam Engine to a home screen on your mobile device & it only takes a few seconds. I only have Android devices, so can't verify if it works on Apple or IOS devices. If someone can chime in to let everyone know if it works on those devices as well... The pictures I have attached will show you where to perform this task... Open the browser on your device & head to www.steam-engine.org. At the top right of the screen, you will see the 3 vertical dots (more link)...tap on that...about 3/4 way down the list, you will see 'Add to Home Screen'...tap on that... A widget (icon/link) will be added to the next available spot on your home screens. You can actually set it to go to the page of your choice on Steam Engine..for instance...the screen I use most often is the 'Wire Wizard', so, whichever page you are on when you create the widget is the page you will be taken to. You can still navigate to the other pages as well. Also, it will not utilize your devices browser & can actually be opened when not even having internet access...
  3. Have you tested to find your internal mod resistance? It might not sound like much, but a milliohm or 2 can make a major difference with the DNA devices when it comes to TC. So, it is very important to get an accurate reading on the internal resistance of your device. Even devices of the same model, manufacturer, etc... will have different internal resistances. My Therion 166 is set at .006...the highest of any of my devices. As for your resistance fluctuation, when you run a mod resistance test...no atomizer attached, you will see if the problem is on the mod side or atomizer side!
  4. Hi, I don't use TCR values, but use .csv files. What TCR value are you using for 316L? I have seen the TCR for 316L listed anywhere from .00088 to .00105. I do believe that UD claims that the TCR for their 316L wire is .00094. The .csv file from Steam Engine works good for me on my Therion 166. You should have a stable resistance in the analyzer with your atomizer attached & screwed down snug. Have you doubled checked all your screws & connections on your deck? What is you Mod Resistance set at in the 'Mod' tab? Make sure the threads on the 510 connector on the mod are clean...best to wipe down with a cotton swab wet with Iso Prop Alcohol.
  5. I already check the atomizer in the analyzer & it seems to very stable. The deck on this atomizer screws directly to the 510 on the mod...no contact points to transfer resistance between the coil & the mod...when re-wicking a few minutes ago, double checked all screws on deck & they are all tight, no hot spots on the coils...everything as it should be. Always clean the 510 on mod & atty with IPA every time I remove an atty my mods...It has done this with other atty's as well....but now it seems to be working as it is supposed to be... I can understand the diagnosing over the net thing...
  6. Nope...no fluctuation in power mode at 100w...fairly consistent fire...but then again, it seems to operating normal now...working like usual in TC mode now too....
  7. No change while spinning the cells...after reviewing the chart farther back, for some reason sometimes cell 1 takes a dive at the initial fire & then they both start sawing & at other times cell 2 takes the dive before the sawing...but now both cells seem to be running pretty much together... Edit...almost forgot...only screen I am getting is advising about temperature being achieved...no check battery or imbalanced cell
  8. This particular setup is single wire, contact coils...but have had the same thing happening on spaced coils as well...
  9. Ok...Cell soft cutoff set at 2.85 now.... and uploaded to device...
  10. On the left side of this screenshot is the previous 10 sec. puff using device monitor & on the right side is me pressing the fire button
  11. Here is new screenshot...10 sec. puff using the puff function in Device Monitor...not even touching the device & everything is looking normal again...haven't changed any settings.. .
  12. ChunkyButt200...those 2 screenshots are of the sag when firing...2 different fires but they fit on the same screen so took 2 screenshots so that I could move the marker from one fire point to the other... Wayneo...haven't changed anything yet...but now the device is firing normally again...
  13. Ok...haven't changed any settings & now it seems to be back to normal...this is about how this seems to happen. This is longest it has acted like this, was never able to get screen shots before. Here is a new screenshot ...
  14. Not sure about the Kanthal limit setting...never use power mode except to burn in coils...always use TC. Here are a couple of screen shots showing 2 different fire button presses but in the same frame...
  15. Cell cut off is set at 2.91...attached screen shot of mod settings. Changed out with fresh batteries...screen shot of device monitor after battery change out
  16. Hey guys...have noticed a few times that I could feel the pulsing of the device & temp rising & falling. Was finally able to catch it on Device Monitor. Seemed like every time I tried before, it would clear up. This is on a Therion 166, 250 chip, SC Aromamizer, dual coil, 24g, 316L, about 6 or 7 wraps & clocking in at .09 ohms. In the screenshots attached, you can see the fluctuation when at 350F, but when I cranked it up to 375F, the fluctuation stopped. The third screenshot shows when I cranked it up to 375F. Every thing bounced around with it except for the cold & live ohms. Atomizer analyzer showing stable build. Checked all connections, etc... Any ideas? Edit...It has happened on different atty's as well, not just this one
  17. What type of device & batteries are you using?
  18. I have several of the Smok TFV atty's & have found that because of the floating pin in the base, it will cause lots of problems with the DNA devices, because of fluctuating resistance. Non DNA devices are not as sensitive to the resistance, but because of the refinement of the DNA chip, a slight variance in the resistance can cause the chip to think that a non-TC wire is being used, hence causing the device to show 'OFF' & drop into power mode.
  19. Here is a link to a calibration tool to set your mod resistance....http://smokefreemods.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6619269
  20. You need to get a fairly accurate reading on you mod's internal resistance...running a jumper wire across the post on you build deck would be better than a screwdriver. Before I got the plugs, I took the base of an old carto, shorted it out with some solder...it did read slightly higher than the plug though
  21. Just for giggles...re-set the mod resistance value at about 0.005...upload to device & check your temp situation. I used a 510 install tool to check mine...https://www.motleymods.com/collections/510-connectors/products/510-connector-installation-tool-box-mod-part-diy-motley-mods-fast-shipping.
  22. That seems high...have you run a resistance test on the mod? I have several DNA mods & the highest is set at .006.
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