giz_60

According to Steam Engine, that coil setup should be in the neighborhood of .15 - .18

Hold on...your cold ohs & live ohms are the same...looks like the coil may have been warm when you set the cold ohms into the device...looks like the cold ohms are .180...you can go to the Atomizer Analyzer on the General tab...click override ohms...enter .18...close the analyzer & upload to device...then try it...

You must be using a TCR value... .00092...you may have an unstable connection somewhere... I would check all your connections on you atty....deck screws etc...make sure the 510 pin on the atty is good & clean...clean the 510 connection on the device with some iso alcohol & cotton swab...

Also...a screen shot showing that wire setting in the Materials tab...

Ok...can you post another screenshot of Device Monitor with the cold ohms & live ohms selected...

Can you post a screen shot of 'Device Monitor'...it will give better insight as to what may be happening...

A screen shot of your wire profile the 'General' tab, 'Mod' tab & Device Monitor, while firing, would be very helpful!

I too, like CB, have the HG2's, 30Q's & the VTC6's...among a few other, but of those 3, I am getting the best performance out of the VTC6's...I use them is all my 75's & the HG2's in my 250's... Edit: I have 75's that will also take the 26650 & have both the Efest green & the Ijoy, but have found that having to change a battery once a day anywho's, IMHO, it's not worth the extra weight compared to an 18650...

PM sent with file attached...

Device monitor is showing 3 cells & that is a 2 cell device. Try going into the 'Mod' tab in Escribe & set the device to 2 cell in the battery settings...then upload to device....see if that gets it working

That's probably true with 316L, but I have found that with Nifethal 70, which I use exclusively & which has a much lower resistivity than SS, if I lower the SET power below the preheat power, it takes slightly longer to reach temp. On the these screenshots, the preheat in all puffs is set at 75...but I could be missing something & it wouldn't be the first time... The last screenshot is changing the preheat power settings... CHANGING POWER (WATT) SETTING CHANGING PREHEAT POWER SETTING

Personally, I use mostly Steam Crave attys & also have a Merlin Mini that I use on my VT75 Nano...and the Ammit...

Being that you are using a 3 core clapton, thats alot of metal to heat up...you might want to change the settings in your profile... Power - 167 Preheat - 167 Punch - 11 Time Limit - 3 secs. This will get the coil up to temp quick & then the board will do its job & throttle back the wattage to maintain temp. In the Mod tab, at the top, there is a 'Kanthal Power Limit'..if you set this to a wattage you are comfy with, if it drops into Power mode, it won't cook yer lips...

When I switched to DNA devices, I quit using my Avacado because of the multiple joints that the resistance has to pass through to get to the mod...on all the attys I use, the 510 pin on the deck makes direct contact to the 510 center pin on the device...but thats just me...

You might want to unscrew the 510 pin from the Avacodo & check to make sure that the screw that connects the pin to the build deck is tight as well...

Anytime you see fluctuating ohms, it's most likely a resistance stability issue...only need to run case analyzer once, accept the values & then upload to device...

Nice catch Wayneo...

Not a problem...glad to help & great that you got it working...stable connections are extremely important in TC on the DNA devices... You will need to run the case analyzer sometime to get the proper values for your device...just make sure your batteries are at least 50% discharged, if not more...will take awhile...I usually start it before I go to bed...

You would think...the only LV mod I have that came with case thermals set was the Triade...Therion & Skar had Evolv defaults...

Yes it does...mine did as well...

And when you get a chance, what I was asking for, as @Wayneo so pointed out, was a screen shot of the wire profile/settings for the 316L in the 'General Tab'...power,punch, yada yada...

If you look at the screen shot you posted of Device Monitor, you can see the live ohms, while firing, are fluctuating, which usually means there is some sort of connection issue. I would double check you screws as well because metal can expand & contract & cause the connection to become loose...along with cleaning

When you changed the temp protected to show temp, are you sure you uploaded to the device...I just changed it on my Therion 166 & it doesn't show the message if I change it to show temp...