James

Could you please post your EScribe settings? I wonder if there is anything special about them to cause this. When it is in this state, does Cold Ohms change? As far as hardware possibilities... One time, I did have a dodgy connection (I had just mashed the wires in for testing) whose Ohms would occasionally bounce to random values (it was losing connection) and the DNA would assume it to be a different coil. 9/30 should lock in the notion of TC after firing though. Does it still show a temperature, or does it switch to the Kanthal display of volts?

Hmm. 0.007 sounds very reasonable - many 510s are around this. Do try setting it to 0 to see if it helps stability though. It probably will not, but if it does that indicates the mod resistance was too high. I am surprised 0.90 Ohm did not help.

eziotroito, does your mod have a mod resistance set? If it *is* set but incorrectly and too high, it can cause control instability like this. Of course, if it is too low that can affect the accuracy of TC. It is much more important that your mod manufacturer set this accurately for SS. (If not, you can do it yourself, if you know/can measure it.) Nickel is less sensitive. You may get a better result with a higher-resistance coil, as that reduces the effect of mod resistance being set wrong. It isn't a given that this is the problem, but certainly something to make sure of. Also, do you have alternative wire you can try? The problem with SS is that (1) its resistance does not change as much as Nickel, and (2) it is an alloy and is not graded by electrical properties. That means not all SS is identical, so the curves may be off.

The battery discharge curve is based on unloaded voltage. The cell soft cutoff is based on loaded voltage. When a battery gets very low, it can still sustain voltage, especially if all it has to power is the screen, but as soon as you want it to push 50W, it's really much too drained. Think of it as bench pressing 2 lb vs 200 lb when you're incredibly fatigued. One of the two, the bar is going to stay up. Soft cutoff reduces the power the battery is being asked to push so the voltage doesn't drop fast. Try monitoring the battery cells while firing in EScribe. You'll see the effect there clearly.

It is safe. The hard cutoff (not configurable) is around that voltage to ensure safety. However, by setting it at that level you may not get meaningful soft cutoff. With soft cutoff at 2.8V, when the battery gets very low/weak, instead of the DNA dialing down the power so you can extract the last 10% or so of battery life, it is just going to say Check Battery. And you will have to dial down the power manually. It isn't what I'd do. But, to each their own. I'd make it at least 2.9V to get the battery-extending of the soft cutoff. People often misunderstand the nature of soft cutoff. If you look at a battery discharge curve, with lines for 1C, 5C, 10C, etc., it isn't saying Check Battery at that voltage. Instead, you'll notice that the lines tend to crater in voltage at a particular mAh. What soft cutoff does is, when the battery is about to fall off at that voltage, it instead goes *horizontally* on that curve, to the right, toward lower C value curves that end at a higher mAh. The battery can't give full power at that point much longer, and if you try it's about empty, so soft cutoff kicks in and gives you a power level it can keep going on. For total battery life soft cutoff is your friend. Maybe we should have given it a better name...

The voltages are different between USB and the battery. It's best to use watts and watt-hours where possible, because of conservation of energy (watt-hours). To estimate charge times: Battery: 0.9Ah x 11.1V=9.99(A x V)h=9.99Wh. Basically a 10 watt-hour battery. USB: USB is 5V. At 500mA, 0.5A x 5V=2.5(A x V)=2.5W. That's about a four hour charge. At 1A, 5W will take about two hours. It will be a warmer charge at 1A, yes. Two things make the charge slower than the estimate above: (1) USB is nominally 5V at the charge port, but your USB cable may have some loss. If you look at USB Voltage in EScribe while charging full speed vs. not charging you can see this - the drop is proportional to USB current, V=I x R). This isn't something talked about much -- charging 1A with a lower quality cable that delivers 4V to the device will be 20% slower than a cable that actually gets 5V there. The other 20% is going to heating the room. (2) Once the charging voltage of the LiPo reaches 4.2V at any cell, the charger will lower current so as to ensure it does not go over 4.2V while charging. This occurs in the last 20% or so of the charge, and is for safety.

Bobby, what version of EScribe are you experiencing this on? The newest in Early Firmware should fix a good number of locale-related problems. If it does not, that is a bug. Janggut, do you mean the link at the top or the bottom of the screen? The link at the top is to update the DNA device's firmware. The link at the bottom is to update EScribe. Thanks! James

Does your directory structure (C:\Users\name\) have Unicode (non-Roman alphabet) characters? If so, maybe try installing a newer installer from the Early Firmware thread on top of it. The older installers were not Unicode-enabled, I believe. This should not affect the ability to check for updates, only install/uninstall. Unable to launch web browser... Hmm... If you do Windows Key+R and type https://my.evolvapor.com into the Run dialog, does it go to it properly? That's effectively what EScribe tries to do.

Hello Obi, I don't speak German, but at 21:30 of your first video, I notice that the mod on the upper right table is consistently low on power. The manufacturer should have set a Mod Resistance, but if they did not, it is most noticeable at low resistances such as your 0.27 Ohm. If you set the Mod Resistance correctly, the DNA 200 will deliver extra power to compensate for resistive losses in the mod's 510 connector and wiring. You should get the correct delivered power. This will also improve the accuracy of temperature protection. If it is set to 0 on that mod right now, by your table I think it is probably about 0.008 Ohms. Thanks for these reviews! James

What version of Windows are you running? Is Internet Explorer installed? If so, are you able to visit https://my.evolvapor.com without getting certificate errors?

Could you give a link to this calibration file? If it is a .CSV file, go to Material and choose Custom, then click Load CSV on the Material Profile. If it is a .ecigprofile file, click Load Profile on one of your profiles.

Hmm. It must not have made that new Root Certificate take priority over the built-in, expired one. EScribe uses Microsoft's .NET Framework, so underlying web requests use Internet Explorer. If it can't make a secure connection it will fail to connect -- we don't override the default verification. Here's a Windows update that should give you newer root certificates. Hopefully the GlobalSign is among them... https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=26609 There was an even newer one, but it appears Microsoft has removed it in their desperately needy attempt to force people to use their new OS...

Hmm. Well, try going to https://support.globalsign.com/customer/portal/articles/1426602-globalsign-root-certificates selecting Download Root-R1 for "R1 GlobalSign Root Certificate", open the file, and click Install Certificate. I'm pretty sure that one comes preinstalled all the way back to Windows 98 though... (What OS is this running? XP without Service Packs or..?) If this does not solve it, do you get these warnings when visiting bank websites etc. as well in MSIE? Try going to the padlock icon at https://www.dimensionengineering.com , View Certificates , Certification Path. It should say GlobalSign, AlphaSSL CA - G2, www.dimensionengineering.com with paper-with-award icons.

Production Utility is the only tool that Login affects, presently. However, if you are having SSL certificate issues, this also affects USB Recovery Charging (I believe), Send Feedback, Report a Bug, Get Information and Restore Defaults. Could you take a screenshot of the security warning? (You get the error on both?) That is the reason it is failing, and if I know the exact issue I can probably give advice on how to resolve it. Thanks! James

Could you please try these two websites with Internet Explorer, and see if you can access them? https://my.evolvapor.com https://www.dimensionengineering.com The https:// is important. I am wondering if your system certificate store may not have the appropriate SSL certificate authorities. Firefox uses its own store.

Interesting! What keyboards are yall using?

You can set it in Device Monitor. It's in Diagnostics.

New Coil actually should show up in Stealth. Is it not for you? What firmware are you running? If you want to change wattage and have that make the screen bright, instead of using Stealth, you can achieve this by editing the Brightness settings in the Screen tab.

Hmm. soulvape, that video shows for the 29th? The first e-mail I received from you about translation is indeed earlier, on the 19th (but the link didn't work when I tried it, admittedly a week later - is the 23rd the same link?), and the first from miwu is the 30th. Bobby, the "Example Language File.po" is fairly complete I believe. I should probably just rename that one to en\EScribe.po

There is & in front of the D in Device: "Automatically Connect to &Device" (This is to give it a shortcut key.) We actually received two German translations. I was going to put in soulvape's, from GERMAN DNA CREW, but miwu sent me one which is exactly the same except that the credits, GERMAN DNA CREW, is instead his vendor website. He is claiming his is the original. We've not had a conflict of claimed authorship for any other language. Still haven't decided what to do. Thoughts are welcome.

By the material: From a consistency standpoint, the problem with Stainless is that it is an alloy - a mixture, not a pure element - and graded by mechanical properties, not electrical properties. By the coil design: Because SS's electrical resistivity changes less with temperature than other metals, there is a greater need for mod resistance to be correct (something, ideally, the manufacturer would have measured and set, and many do), and mostly importantly, a higher resistance would help. Here's an example: Say our coil is 0.06, and the mod resistance is 0.02. A worst case scenario. Honestly, most mods have half or less this mod resistance. At temperature, say, 400F, the coil resistance will rise 20%. If the mod resistance is set correctly, it will read the coil at 0.060 cold, and be 0.072 hot. This does mean the full temperature range is 0.012 Ohms. That's 0.012 Ohm/330F, you're literally talking 25 degrees per milliohm. This will be very hard to control accurately. It will average 400F though. If the mod resistance is not set (that is, set to 0), it will read the coil at 0.080 cold, and a 20% rise is 0.096. The actual coil will be 0.060 cold, and 0.076 hot. This is a 26% rise instead of 20%. It will average 510F -- an error of 110F. This error in mod resistance corresponds to 70F on Nickel. Now, say we double the coil resistance to 0.12. Because this doubles the number of Ohms in the full temperature range, it doubles the precision with which temperatures can be measured. Additionally, if the mod resistance is set wrong, let's do the calculation again: 0.120 cold reads 0.140. 20% rise is 0.168, so 0.148 on the real coil instead of 0.144 if mod resistance were right. 23% rise. About a 60F error. Better. If we double it again, twice as good again... So: (1) correct mod resistance helps to avoid offset errors, which are magnified by SS's less changing electrical resistivity (2) for Stainless, a higher cold resistance would mean a greater range when it's hot, so better ability to accurately measure the material (3) even if you do both of these, SS is still an alloy so, unless you control a steel mill, you are going to have trouble getting consistent electrical properties between orders... and because of SS's electrical resistivity, even small errors in what goes into the CSV will translate into large errors in temperature. Good luck.

Keep in mind that all battery manufacturers tend to rate their batteries at very low powers (representative for consumer electronics), not the high powers used in e-cigarettes. Battery Analyzer defaults to testing at 40W, and as a result its real-world measured battery capacity will tend to be below the rated value. For instance, our FullyMax battery tested around 9 Wh real world, though its rating is 10 Wh (this is where the default 9 comes from, if your manufacturer did not enter in a battery capacity). This is true for all batteries - 18650, LiPo, LiFePO4, whatever. For instance, I found this on Google Image Search: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/Tweek_CPF/18650_2400mAh.jpg On that image, if you really wanted to vape at C/3 (3W), you might get that 18650 manufacturer's rated capacity. Also, Battery Analyzer considers the battery totally empty for meter purposes at the point when the battery can no longer sustain a 5W vape. There may be a few more puffs left in there, honestly, and the DNA will let you vape it (showing Weak Battery most likely), but them'll be weak puffs.

The actual ramp up is in the milliseconds. What you are seeing is that the screen is updated four times per second with the average values from the past quarter second. So if you start firing half-way through that quarter second, the average will be between 0 (not firing) and your wattage, and that screen update will be at a midpoint. Take a look at Power in the Device Monitor to see what I mean.

Wattage is what affects vapor production, that's true. Provided you aren't encountering the temperature protection, it's approximately proportional. Is your atomizer reaching maximum temperature even at 10W? The reason it is an error message is that the original intent of temperature protection was to prevent dry hits and/or to keep the coil temperature below the breakdown temperature of the juice components, and otherwise the vape would be identical to normal coils. Preheat was added so people don't have to wait for their juice to reach its active vaping temperature. So, if set up in this manner, you would never get that message except when it prevented a dry hit or other unsafe vaping condition. The problem is that many atomizers are not designed properly to be able to emit large quantities of vapor without getting dangerously hot. So people run into the temperature protection a lot, and have come to use the temperature protection to achieve 'absolutely the maximum possible amount of vapor for this atomizer, while keeping at a safe level'. That's fair, but it would be better if the atomizer design was such that you never needed to hit such high temperatures to get good amounts of vapor.

Does it do this with the 9/30 as well?