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Building My First Box (help wanted/needed please)


usy219
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Hi guys new to the forum just after some help and advice. Total novice to building box mods and this is going to be my first, although do have a some amount of electronics experience. 

I Have been looking around and want to build a DNA200 Box with a huge battery something I don't have to charge for days (hopefully weeks :P), something similar to vaping pixels Thor's brick or maybe slightly smaller in size although I'm not to concerned about the size of the build  (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVeGTAaTJ8k)

The case I have chosen (for now) is  the 1590P1BK Hammond enclosure
http://www.tme.eu/en/details/hm-1590p1bk/multipurpose-enclosures/hammond/1590p1bk/

The Battery I have chosen is the Turing Nano - Tech 5000mah 3S Lipo pack 45-90C
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__11956__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

The 510 Connecters is by FatDaddyVapes (v4) with the 30mm Cap
http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html

I want to use a led switch the comes on when the fire button is pressed so I am thinking of going with the 12V Black Aluminum Metal SwitchMomentary 19mm 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Black-Aluminum-Metal-Switch-Push-On-Start-Button-Latching-Momentary-16-19mm-/281131170886?var=580207455106&hash=item4174b93c46

Going to be using 18AWG SILICONE WIRE from Stealth Vapes

After some advice about the switch and how would I wire it, would I need to remove the old switches or should I leave them in there, also some advice on the battery would I need to add anymore protection? Also I have not ordered anything atm going to start of with the battery so I can make some measurements then I can go ahead and order the enclosed case and then the rest of it. Any other suggestions, maybe other battery that i could consider etc would like some feedback or someone to point me in a direction of where i should be going LOL :) 

Thanks guys much appreciated 

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Just remember you need at least 14 gauge from the "out" to the 510 and the ground out to 510 unless your grounding it to the case with board screws....you can leave the stock buttons on and still use a different fire switch....just solder the wires to the thru hole points on the side of the board

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I would leave the on-board switches there.  You may want to re-use the chip later.  Personally I recommend using them vs putting in your own.  They are really well designed and easy to work with now that they are the same height off the board.  I think the era of off-board switches for regulated mods is passing.

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scoopy said:

Just remember you need at least 14 gauge from the "out" to the 510 and the ground out to 510 unless your grounding it to the case with board screws....you can leave the stock buttons on and still use a different fire switch....just solder the wires to the thru hole points on the side of the board

I think minimum is 16 gauge. 14 is suggested no?
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digatel said:

I am also a new modder, and have been getting great advice from this forum. The question I have that is a little ambiguous to me, is do I need to add any extra fuses onto the wires coming from the battery to the DNA board? If so, what is recommended?

From what I know the dna 200 board has a prefitted fuse just above the battery solder terminals and a bulit in charger so I dont see you needing a fuse but if you have any space you can go ahead and fit them on although I wouldnt know how to wire them in :)
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digatel said:

I am also a new modder, and have been getting great advice from this forum. The question I have that is a little ambiguous to me, is do I need to add any extra fuses onto the wires coming from the battery to the DNA board? If so, what is recommended?

The board has a fuse as said above so there is no point.
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bottom pin marked c is common, no is normally open and nc is normally closed. we want a no switch so one wire to common C and one wire to the terminal above it marked NO. that's it, that will fire the mod. the - & + terminals on the left and right are for a light or led inside the switch, don't need to be used for the switch to function but if you want it to light up too then need more specs of the switch at least. that's prolly what the resistor is for but that's dependant on the voltage. not sure of the voltage of the fire circuit or the best way to get the switch to light up. there are 2 points on the board made specifically for an led so you might be able to wire the + & - to the board there, prolly the best way but again, not sure of voltage compatabilities

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Hi, I'm a new modder and can't wait to put a box around this board. I have the fullymax 10Wh battery and the fdv 510 connector, cable has just arrived as well as the xt30 battery connector. A friend of mine has a 3D printer and is making the box from the files that evolve supplied. He is having all sorts of problems getting it straight and I'm starting to wonder if a box will ever arrive from him.
As far as I can see so far, having a box milled from aluminium looks as if it would run into the hundreds $, bit hard to justify.
As a plan B, it seems as if the Hammond boxes are quite popular and they seem to be available here in New Zealand. I just can't seem to get my head around getting the correct one B? G? , would somebody be able to point me in the correct direction.
New Zealand is having it's very first national vape meeting 4th October, the closest they could get to the 5th (510 ..haha), I must have this finished and refined by then 

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  • 4 weeks later...
turbocad6 said:

bottom pin marked c is common, no is normally open and nc is normally closed. we want a no switch so one wire to common C and one wire to the terminal above it marked NO. that's it, that will fire the mod. the - & + terminals on the left and right are for a light or led inside the switch, don't need to be used for the switch to function but if you want it to light up too then need more specs of the switch at least. that's prolly what the resistor is for but that's dependant on the voltage. not sure of the voltage of the fire circuit or the best way to get the switch to light up. there are 2 points on the board made specifically for an led so you might be able to wire the + & - to the board there, prolly the best way but again, not sure of voltage compatabilities



Thanks Turbocad6 !!! :thumb:
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Grover said:

Hi, I'm a new modder and can't wait to put a box around this board. I have the fullymax 10Wh battery and the fdv 510 connector, cable has just arrived as well as the xt30 battery connector. A friend of mine has a 3D printer and is making the box from the files that evolve supplied. He is having all sorts of problems getting it straight and I'm starting to wonder if a box will ever arrive from him.
As far as I can see so far, having a box milled from aluminium looks as if it would run into the hundreds $, bit hard to justify.
As a plan B, it seems as if the Hammond boxes are quite popular and they seem to be available here in New Zealand. I just can't seem to get my head around getting the correct one B? G? , would somebody be able to point me in the correct direction.
New Zealand is having it's very first national vape meeting 4th October, the closest they could get to the 5th (510 ..haha), I must have this finished and refined by then 



What to do is roughly layout your Dna parts (battery, board, switches, 510 connector etc) and take some measurements i.e LXWXH in (mm) then go onto Hammond manufacturing website and they have a full list of sizes for all there enclosures, Check the Data sheet and make sure the screw poles don't come in the way and if you will have enough space to fit everything in the enclosure, then you should know what you need :)
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Grover said:

Hi, I'm a new modder and can't wait to put a box around this board. I have the fullymax 10Wh battery and the fdv 510 connector, cable has just arrived as well as the xt30 battery connector. A friend of mine has a 3D printer and is making the box from the files that evolve supplied. He is having all sorts of problems getting it straight and I'm starting to wonder if a box will ever arrive from him.
As far as I can see so far, having a box milled from aluminium looks as if it would run into the hundreds $, bit hard to justify.
As a plan B, it seems as if the Hammond boxes are quite popular and they seem to be available here in New Zealand. I just can't seem to get my head around getting the correct one B? G? , would somebody be able to point me in the correct direction.
New Zealand is having it's very first national vape meeting 4th October, the closest they could get to the 5th (510 ..haha), I must have this finished and refined by then 



I build mods using various boxes so here is my advice. For a first build I would suggest using the Hammond 'B' box. It's a little on the large side but you will be grateful for the extra room on your first build. You'll learn a lot from building the first one and if you do another then you can look at a tighter enclosure.

Last piece of advice from me... don't rush it, take your time and get everything right. I know you'll be anxious to finish it and start vaping on it, but trust me you'll enjoy it more long term if it looks nice and you know it's been well put together.

Best of luck on your build, let us know how it goes :)


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  • 2 weeks later...
usy219 said:

Thanks scoopy & tomr1088, going to go with 14 awg wire, also do i soilder the battery straight on to the board?



If you've got some room in the box and can make it work, I really suggest using micro-deans or something like the XT60 or XT90 connectors for the battery. If you use connectors, you can open your mod, grab the battery and plug it into a LiPo charger. Or if you're ever in a situation where you need more power, you can keep on the lookout for a good deal on a spare battery, and just swap it when it gets low.

With a battery the size of yours, I'd definitely think a LiPo charger would be handy, with my older charger at a fairly low "C" rating for the battery can handle, I think I charge my 2000 mah LiPo in about 40 minutes.

With a battery with lots of mah like you're looking at, that 1 amp charge time from USB, and a LiPo at 4 to 8 amps or so, there will be a big difference in charging, plus the ability to swap batteries when you get more than one, or replace your daily driver and keep the mediocre one as a spare.
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