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Mod Crate 1590A CNC


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I thought I'd share a build option being it just showed up today. The Mod Crate 1590A looks to be a very respectable housing.
I have to acquire another 200 for this build as the one I have is ear marked for a 3D print that should show up tomorrow.

I've contacted Mod Crate and mentioned IGES file availability in this forum so we'll see where that goes. 

So mean while or nice while which ever way you'd prefer to verse it here's a pic.
[IMG_20150903_184538_zpsromzmhnp]

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They may ship cross the pond but I don't know for sure. I've started working on my second mod before the first now, yeah I get bassackwards often. One customized 510 connector.
Flat milled mount surface, shortened the 510 threading at the back because the copper center pin was too low, bored out the plastic for a larger diameter spring, soldered up the 14 gauge. That much is ready anyway.

The edges on the 1590A could use a rounding mill, other than that what I have here is sweet. No magnets needed, almost a press fit putting the lid on.
[IMG_20150904_034224_zpspurxmf1b]  [IMG_20150904_035641_zps19vtqzln] 
These boxes buff out pretty nice too, a little way to go with this one yet but getting there. I did create some extra work for myself with the rounding mill, got a couple thousandths deep so I had to clean it up.
[IMG_20150904_094754_zpsu03wr0vw]  [IMG_20150904_061949_zpsmj4uylkj] 

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I got mine in today from modcrate. There 1590A version is great. Like you said the lid is like press fit but I still got the magnets for it coming. I also got a mamu faceplate with metal buttons and a boxer faceplate but not sure which I will use yet.  Unfortunately I have only drill/dremmel/file to work with for making the rectangular hole for faceplate.  I am going to take my sweet time with it and get it perfected this time.

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It's a nice box, I plan to mill an inlay with standoffs for mounting the 200 although it will have to wait. I just recieved my 3D print I've been waiting on for almost a month now, thanks to a print company that isn't as good as Sculpteo is. It looks awesome, button actuators slid right in, battery contacts are the right distance apart. I guess I'm a decent Blender hack. B|
[IMG_20150904_115033_zpss8oltbam]  [IMG_20150904_121436_zpsku28oaaz][IMG_20150904_123831_zpsi14kkemq]  [IMG_20150904_131343_zps47egaxkk] 
[IMG_20150904_140418_zps7oqi0ix9]

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Thanks! My partner and I worked up the design, it makes for quick easy battery changes with no parts to get lost or any need for tools.
Here, you may have seen this though.
[com-video-to-gif_zpsrqko2uqu] 
I've haven't done the dip coatings yet although they do look pretty cool. Are there different finishes, I mean like glossy, semi gloss, flat.....? Mating patterns on a full 360 coat could be a trick I'd think. 
The epoxy paint on the 3D prints almost has a leather, kinda grippy feel, my favorite coating so far. 


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Mod crate has the reference case buttons in stainless steel for $7 for the set of 3. I am guessing they are the same size as the original reference case as well.  Also they are going to be doing mamu 3D printed faceplates, flushed mounted into there cnc cases with flushed mounted 510 as well.  So it's going to be good kit for some modders and you won't have to make cuts plus the cuts they are making are more precision then I am capable of doing with the tools I got.

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I'm very much a function before form person although when possible I can dress a mod very nicely. 


The 3D prints have an odd texture that absorbs the paint for the first few coats and if patience the texture can be smoothed through multiple coatings of paint and sanding between coats. Coating the 3D prints has been a work of trial and tribulation for myself, others have done much better than I have so far.





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Podunk Steam said:

I'm very much a function before form person although when possible I can dress a mod very nicely. 


The 3D prints have an odd texture that absorbs the paint for the first few coats and if patience the texture can be smoothed through multiple coatings of paint and sanding between coats. Coating the 3D prints has been a work of trial and tribulation for myself, others have done much better than I have so far.







I have gotten amazing results with acetone, acetone based nail polish and CA.
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Thank you and yes it does look a little better in person. I've been debating wire sizes, 510 pins and customizing of, charging cuircut wiring orientation..... Or this would have been done by now. This model originated as an entry level build kit utilizing the SX350j its a very simple build. The DNA 200 steps it up a few rungs on the ladder.

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Russ the 1590 A with the milling I mentioned in the other thread just hits home with me.

This has been a day of trial and tribulation for myself. The SX350J Bootlegger is a cake walk build, add the extra wires for the DNA200 , non-mounted display and it takes a little talent and friendly finessing. 

I fit the DNA200 Bootlegger together today and botched the display somehow, had to happen sometime, this is my first. :( 

It's vaping as it should and hooked to the Escribe I can see adjustments I'm make I just can't see them on the mod.

Has there been any issues with the IGES mod files and displays being damaged with them? Reason I ask is I hacked the IGES files with Blender to make this mod incorporating our previous designs.
When the display is in its recess the structure forces the ribbon to be bent right at the displays edge. The fire buttons location is very close and the ribbon does have to be bent pretty close to the display to not be in the way of the fire button.

Anyway I have to acquire a new display if it would be possible.

[IMG_20150906_023228_zpsxzsvj4bq]

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  • 2 weeks later...

A couple more steps done anyway.
What used to be the back of the box is now the front.

The door which is now the back. I might set that 1 in a little deeper when I go back in the shop again.

Had to even up things being I didn't want to mill through the USBs hole, space is at a premium.

It worked out for a location for a little label. Being the mod does 133 watts that's what is going to be put on it, the 3s will be in the bar button controlling up and down features.

Clean up the display and milled edges and this will just about be ready for coatings.

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The project is still moving forward, at about tectonic speed. ;) 
I got a coat of epoxy on the battery holder to keep the print filament together when it gets drilled. The back side will have an aluminum wrap that will come up the sides of the battery holder slightly and serve a few purposes. The silicone on the transducers will be removed and the aluminum wrap on the battery holder will be Arctic Silvered to the transducers. Kind of hunting with a Howitzer if you want to look at it that way but I doubt I'll have any regrets.
[IMG_20150925_130851_zps9kog6r03]
Edit: Although tricky I think I just figured out a way to hand crank a 2 for the 200 watt version, this should be interesting!

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