Hana V200

[Tomr1088]

KTMRider said:

I have no love for Hana, especially after this last experience with them but you guys seem to think that the 510 is somehow inferior to a FDV or VT. I love VT 510's and have them in all the mods I build and keep a few spares around. They all work great with no issues in resistance at all. My only experience with the FDV is the v4 and that just sucks. The spring is weak and really easy to fck up soldering. An installer can also weaken the spring further by applying too much heat while soldering the 510 pin. 

So it's installed wrong or badly which is causing a faulty 510 connection. Wouldn't you agree? What would you call it then? Have you checked the ground connection from the board to the case? 

I was just trying to help, going on what you posted but if you're gonna act like a candyass about it, send it back to Hana or Evolv and let them fix it. Or did you just want to post your problem just to hear yourself btch about it?

I don't know why there are any hard feelings. I keeps saying o love the 510 and I would rather have this one than a fdv. I don't want an fdv. But I'm saying I'm pissed that I'm having a problem with the perfectly good 510 design due too Hana putting there mods together horribly. And mine is on its way too evolv anyways. I'm only sharing my findings on why my mod was reading resistances al over the place. And I'm hoping the reference mod showing tommorow is better.

[Tomr1088]

And I hope your not confusing me with the other person who installed a fdv 510. And yeah my case to board ground is solid with my meter. It's strictly anywhere on the 510 to case or board ground that has huge resistance. So there's gotta be something in the outer 16mm threads. I even scratched at the seam inside the case and the resistance jumps all over. If I had a connection problem with positive I'd be agreeing with you on the weakened spring and heat and whatnot. The case sadly is just negligence and I'll never buy from Hana again

[MikeTheVapeDude]

KTMRider said:

I have no love for Hana, especially after this last experience with them but you guys seem to think that the 510 is somehow inferior to a FDV or VT. I love VT 510's and have them in all the mods I build and keep a few spares around. They all work great with no issues in resistance at all. My only experience with the FDV is the v4 and that just sucks. The spring is weak and really easy to fck up soldering. An installer can also weaken the spring further by applying too much heat while soldering the 510 pin. 

So it's installed wrong or badly which is causing a faulty 510 connection. Wouldn't you agree? What would you call it then? Have you checked the ground connection from the board to the case? 

I was just trying to help, going on what you posted but if you're gonna act like a candyass about it, send it back to Hana or Evolv and let them fix it. Or did you just want to post your problem just to hear yourself btch about it?

I'm not someone who sends his stuff back to others to fix it, I'm not listening to myself talk, feedback is nice in any form, but you're so busy praising this 510 you seem to fail to realize you are one of the FEW who seems to have gotten a good one. Most of us didn't, and I've had wonderful FD and VT experiences. You're letting your own opinion rule your words here, if I want to replace my 510, I'm going to replace it, and you telling me it won't work and then giving an invalid reason for why it won't work isn't going to stop me. Then you bold out letters at me like I don't already know that, and it's like either you don't understand my plan or forgot that I'm leaving the stock 510 in the box completely, drilling through it and using it and the mod itself as a ground, then soldering the positive wire from the board to the pin in the new 510. I'm pretty good with electronics and I know them pretty well, and I have experience with box mods.


I have no idea why you're so angry, just because you like your 510 and have had good experiences with it doesn't mean everyone else is in the same boat, and most of us don't want to send a $200 device out to let the people who SCREWED IT UP TO BEGIN WITH hold it hostage for maybe a month to fix it and maybe not even really fix it. Some people trust themselves more than companies, especially when said company is the one who F'd up.

Sorry dude, but you need to calm down.


And the reason I'm replacing my 510 is because the threads in it CAME OUT OF THE BOX, thin and like long-worn threads would be, but they were clearly new, two of my addy's and one of my tanks will just sink down past the threads (which I've fixed temporarily with my solution additive) and as they keep wearing my other devices will follow. When it gets bad enough, I'm drilling through the 510 already in the box, which obviously clearly has a solid ground going for it, and if needed I can make my own, and going from there. This WILL work, there's no reason it shouldn't, and I'm prepared to do it when the times comes and I will do it, I'm not asking for further input, I'm just hanging around in the thread to see if anyone else runs into new issues I might need to look out for and here you are telling me my plan sucks and I need to send my device back to the people who messed it up to begin with and wait for them, god knows how long, to MAYBE fix it and send it back. Sorry, nah son.

[KTMRider]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

Sorry dude, but you need to calm down.

I am calm. I have low tolerance for stupidity. 

Let me hold your beer while you try it. 

[MikeTheVapeDude]

KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=MikeTheVapeDude]
Sorry dude, but you need to calm down.

I am calm. I have low tolerance for stupidity. 

Let me hold your beer while you try it. [/QUOTE]

Then I don't know how you stand yourself, and I don't drink. You're telling me using something that already has a solid ground as a ground won't work? If it doesn't, then I can make one. There's no flaw in my plan here, it's like you think it's impossible to make a ground. I'm working with METAL, and the 510 in the box is already solidly grounded, so I can ground the new 510 to the remnants of the old 510 (since I'm just drilling through it) and there you go. You'll be the first person who sees it when it's done, I promise.

[Tomr1088]

just received my evolv beta and also sent out my hana today. i must say i almost prefer the evolv in every way. no more button spinning. attys screw down flush. if it was black then id leave the hana in the trash. but besides that its identical minus the huge improvements in craftsmanship. imagine that. the one who makes the chip also makes the better mod. if your gonna copy it and sell it for 200 it better be better than what i got

[Skrotten]

Got my Hana last friday, and it took only 3 hours before the display went black. Everytime I reboot it it comes back, but then it goes black again when I push the fire button. Sent a mail to Hana and they replied pretty quick, asking me what atomizer, ohm etc I used on it. I answered them and asked for a solution. Now, they wont reply. No answer at all. What ??
Any suggestions?

[Tomr1088]

Make sure you have the latest firmware that improved glitches and screen problems due screen ribbon movement and other wore movement. I know it solved a lot of people's problems. And also check your firing brightness and other screen brightness settings in escribe.

[Tomr1088]

Just saw this. If anyone wanted to see how the production model looks. Looks way better but not worth the risk to me still. Idk. If I can sel my fixed Hana and I see the new one isn't problematic and it's not more than 250 I'll buy.

[Tomr1088]

Looks like they meant it when they said the faceplate will be the only difference. Looks like they made it better and used better buttons. Wonder if they made a better 510. Wanna see that and what the sides look like.

[zinc]

after 5 days of using my hana the 510 base stripped out from the aluminum housing.

[DonnyX]

I've had my Hana V200 for about a week and today I've notice when I hit the fire button the screen goes black until I let go of it. I can slightly see the screen but not enough to read it. I've hard rebooted restored defaults and still goes black as I fire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Tomr1088]

DonnyX said:

I've had my Hana V200 for about a week and today I've notice when I hit the fire button the screen goes black until I let go of it. I can slightly see the screen but not enough to read it. I've hard rebooted restored defaults and still goes black as I fire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Your having the popular screen issue everyone has discussed. The screen ribbon is getting pinched between the fire button.

[Chriskucharik]

I just wanted to say I got my Hana v200 a couple of days ago and i registered it on escribe and then I started using it. I didn't change anything or mess around with the profiles. So it has been a few days now and everything seems to be good. I am very happy with the way that the new Hana 200 is built because I always loved the Atlas and that was made with the same billet box. No screen issues make me so happy because I had so many with all of my DNA 40 devices. I like the direction things are heading. Hope everyone gets all of their devices fixed and vape without problems.

[Arbegust]

I know this may not seem relevant to this string, but does anyone know if the issue involving the 510 connector to remain depressed has been addressed with the Hana? I have also heard the atomizers don't fit flush the unit. Expecting mine tomorrow. Appreciate any feedback!

[Tomr1088]

Arbegust said:

I know this may not seem relevant to this string, but does anyone know if the issue involving the 510 connector to remain depressed has been addressed with the Hana? I have also heard the atomizers don't fit flush the unit. Expecting mine tomorrow. Appreciate any feedback!

the issue with the 510 remaining depressed im not sure on and mine never did that. but yea alot of atties with longer 510 pins wont be flush due to the space inside the enclosure and the 510 design. the 510 does not have much travel. and if you force it the battery will have the 510 pin pressing into it too hard

[Arbegust]

Well that's kinda crappy, but as long as functionality is good I guess I'm okay. Thanks!

[Kevinl86]

Personally, I'll be selling mine and snatching a Vaporshark ASAP. I've opened it up and remedied most of the issues the original batch had but my atomizers still read 0.3-0.4 higher than my other mods so something is off.

[Tomr1088]

Kevinl86 said:

Personally, I'll be selling mine and snatching a Vaporshark ASAP. I've opened it up and remedied most of the issues the original batch had but my atomizers still read 0.3-0.4 higher than my other mods so something is off.

It's the 510 not making connection to the case. Same thing with mine. Would read .3 higher than normal lol

[Candles]

Had mine a few days or so, after the just the first 24 hours it now just refuses to fire. No matter what I have on there be it nickel or kanthal it always reads as shorted or says check atomizer. Fiddling with escribe and updating firmware did nothing to help. Sometimes screwing things on there results in a higher ohm reading than it should, although most of the time it reads correctly despite not being able to fire. Even if it fired properly (Or at all) I'd be quite sketched screwing attys on an off, I've never used anything as poorly threaded as the 510 they went with. I submitted a ticket to evolv and I'm hoping to get it swapped out for a beta unit or at least get it working. 

As for the build quality though I can give them a point for that. The unit feels solid and although the buttons spin, they don't really have a rattle to them and IMO they feel nice so I don't mind them. If it wasn't ruined by a shitty 510 and a lack of firing it would be my dream mod given it's size and features.

If anyone is reading this thread from Hana here's some advice for the production unit; either fix the buttons in place or use blank ones if that would make them rattle, and CHANGE THE DAMN 510. The new faceplate someone posted earlier looks awesome. Also I've heard stuff here about battery connectors and and screen pinching, those should be so obvious that they shouldn't even be in a pre production. Little things like spinning buttons are fine for that, but if you're still selling a device for $200 it should at least have a screen that won't be killed from normal use and be able to handle the current it needs.

To those reading this thread trying to decide on shelling out $200 for their pre production, don't make the same mistake I did. I read about all the issues and thought those people were very unlucky and bought one anyway. Just be patient and wait for the other DNA 200's to hit the market. If you have to get a Hana wait for the final release and then wait for the reviews before even considering throwing money at them. It's ridiculous that Hana is even selling these with how sloppy they are, and even worse how little support they're giving. It seems to me like they knew that would have the market for non-DIY DNA200's somewhat cornered for a while by rushing out a fully assembled device as fast as possible. And they did it by throwing together a solid looking box and ignoring all the potential (and even painfully obvious) issues that could go on inside.

/rant

TL;DR 
Feels nice but mine (And many others) doesn't work and the 510 sucks anyway so don't buy one

[lawenforcement222]

Maybe someone can help since Hana's customer service blows. I've had my pre production Hana V200 for five to six days. Was working fine until today. Original build i had on my velocity was a dual nickel clapton coil and read .04 ohms. It was going up to 800 degrees, I saw that and thought what the hell. Would automatically go to temp protect. Put a silo beast with a triton .4 ohm coil and it read .62 and was firing it extremely high to 100 watts on escribe. Took that off and put a dual nickel build at .08 ohms on velocity and was reading it at 2.21 ohms. Made sure connections were tight and everything. Fired it and it said ohms too low. Took that build out and redid the same exact build. Same thing happened and kept firing it at 100 watts with no temp protection activating. Then it read it at .10 ohms and fired it normally not in temp mode. I have soft and hard rebooted my device and done everything i can think of. Not sure if i have a faulty chip or the 510 is faulty. Thanks in advance anyone who helps me out.

[blueridgedog]

The increase in resistance (even on multiple atomizers) would lead me to think that the 510 has a resistance issue (poor solder join or poor outer contact with the case/ground).  If you put a large solid wire in the atomizer post mounts and run "check atomizer" you will get an idea of the resistance it has.  Do that and wiggle the 510 wire and see if it moves around.

[Rich Smith]

Candles, I could not agree more! If only I waited and read your post I would not have this $200 pos and feel like a neglected lab rat. I've spent a fortune on Hanas and dealt with a few minor issues with mediocre customer service that were eventually resolved. Never again.

[Tomr1088]

blueridgedog said:

The increase in resistance (even on multiple atomizers) would lead me to think that the 510 has a resistance issue (poor solder join or poor outer contact with the case/ground).  If you put a large solid wire in the atomizer post mounts and run "check atomizer" you will get an idea of the resistance it has.  Do that and wiggle the 510 wire and see if it moves around.

With mine it wasn't the positive connection even tho the solder job was junk. The 510 doesn't ground to the case. They used glue or prob didn't remove anodizing when installing the 510. My resistance was all over the place and if I jumped a wire from the 510 base squished under the atty to the inside of the case everything became normal. Try it.

[Arbegust]

If I may ask something unrelated, I just got my v200 and noticed the battery rattles some when the unit is shaken. Is this normal? Appreciate any help!