PLANETGETLOW Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I just built 2 spaced (6 wraps each) that ohm out around .14 Using the V3.5 and it workex great for 3 hit, then switched to watts mode Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLANETGETLOW Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Rebuit another parallel, 5 wraps each @.12 ohms 55watts 420 temp So far, so good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Just build twisted 28awg using ud ss316l..build at kayfun..5 wrap 2.5mm diameter..and will became 3.0mm due its too springy and will get around 0.71ohm...use default profile from efusion made by evolv...fire at 30watt and tc set to 400f..i find my sweet spot.. Just to share..u guys can give a try..i can fell the flavour like i drink it..lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harassment_panda Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 omar said:Just build twisted 28awg using ud ss316l..build at kayfun..5 wrap 2.5mm diameter..and will became 3.0mm due its too springy and will get around 0.71ohm...use default profile from efusion made by evolv...fire at 30watt and tc set to 400f..i find my sweet spot.. Just to share..u guys can give a try..i can fell the flavour like i drink it..lol...I tired this and OMG flavor. what is a good way to get the springiness out of the 316l? i spent most of my time trying to keep it from springing back into the center posts. and my coils looks like a newbs. this is not my first coil build i have done soo many claptons and fused claptons that i cant even count them anymore. but man twisted ss316l has to be the most springiest thing in the world , even when compared to flubber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Margucci Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 You can try torching it after straightening the wire with a drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLANETGETLOW Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Settled on a dual vertical parallel (Stream Crave) atty. 2.5ID, 10 wraps @ .19ohms. 55 watts, 520 degrees Nice cool vape, good dense cloud. Satisfied with this build Used the V2 profile listed above. Ive noticed with SS you either need good spaced coils or REALLY good contact coils. Took me a minute to set it up but worth the hassle. This coming from a strictly TI user. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaquith Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 PLANETGETLOW said:...This coming from a strictly TI user.Amen. SS is something to mess around with or at least SS316x .. long-term .. maybe you. Lower gauge with big coils, SS is okay. Just my opinion.Now I'm looking at SS430 and Pt wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLANETGETLOW Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Jaquith said:[QUOTE=PLANETGETLOW]...This coming from a strictly TI user.Amen. SS is something to mess around with or at least SS316x .. long-term .. maybe you. Lower gauge with big coils, SS is okay. Just my opinion.Now I'm looking at SS430 and Pt wire.[/QUOTE]I have 24 gauge, any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaquith Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 PLANETGETLOW said:I have 24 gauge, any suggestions As in what exactly? The Profiles I've posted for UD SS316L seem to work as long as you disable Preheat. My preferences are V3 and V3.5 which seem to be working. Otherwise, my go to wire is Titan Wires 24g. Just for kicks I was going to Clapton 24g UD with 34g Kanthal, but beyond that I have no other plans for SS316L. The SS430 and Platinum are my next venture expanding my TC trials and tribulations, but wow Platinum is CrAzY expensive $70 for one frigging coil. LOL it looks just like SS but it doesn't oxidize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalcide Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 My 28 gauge UD 316L SS arrived and there is no significant difference in behavior (good, bad, indifferent) compared to the 316 (non-L) unbranded fasttech wire I had before.I'm using the default SE profile at the moment.Not a very steady vape if I set the wattage higher than needed. My workaround is to set the wattage about 1 watt above my desired level and bump the temp up until it nearly matches it, but still offers some TC. Doing this, everything smoothes out on the graph (and vape).I may as well just run in power mode, but this at least allows me to control the pre-heat punch.Ni200 on the same atty works perfectly even when the wattage is far above where I vape via TC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Margucci Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 I am a big fan of the flavor of twisted coils. However, I find that they are far too springy and low resistance for building or TC. It seems that the best results come from simple, larger, high resistance builds. Although the 0.04ohm quad twisted parallel build was pretty hilarious when people saw it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndb Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 subscribed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj6404 Posted December 4, 2015 Report Share Posted December 4, 2015 Here you go David. 24g UD SS316L cores, 36g KA1 fused claptons. Came out to 0.09. Using your 3.25 because I get random slight dry hits but overall I'm impressed that TC is working at all. Set at 95 watts 450 F or so with preheat disabled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikla Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Jaquith said:You can pulse at a low wattage to clean and initially remove hot spots. I don't use parallel builds much. Most of my builds are limited to 120W and on average 30W to 75W. I'll build a quad once in a blue moon, twisted 30-26 gauge, Clapton's but most are 24 gauge single and dual. I can vape a Kayfun and grab a Velocity Clapton the next vape. That said, a 3 mm ID, 7.5 wrap, parallel, dual, 24 gauge of SS316L should have an approximate resistance of 0.08-0.09 Ohm's and require 170W-180W to power. Would this be a correct Steam-Engine build for this coil?Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flem Posted December 7, 2015 Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 I usually use Celsius on my Mod, but I tried to set the temp as fahrenheit an got a much much better vape / flavor on the same coil.its a 7 wrap spaced 316L coil coming out at .05 and I was vaping this at 248 degrees celsius, but changed it to 470 degrees fahrenheit.Can that be because the chip makers standard is fahrenheit?i am running this on a Steam Crave so easy to change coils, so later I will try to make a Titanium coil and also change the profile on this to fahrenheit and see if I get the same difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordmage Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Jaquith said:[QUOTE=PLANETGETLOW]Im about to move from TI to SS....getting 28g and 24G in. I would appreciate it if the V4 csv can be uploaded so i can use itHere's the ensemble of all the UD SS316L Profiles - http://www.filedropper.com/udss316ltcprofilesAs the Version goes up, so do the temperatures; I generally use V3 or V3.5 myself.[/QUOTE]would you sir please be so kind to reupload the cast once again filedropper links dont last to long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerkai Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 I had downloaded V3,V3.25 and V4, had tried all, but preferred the V3.25 at 2.4ID, 8 wraps @ .5ohms. 23watts, 210c single coil in Le Magister and Monad attys. I would appreciate if anyone can upload the V3.5 cvs so i can try it? Had tried searching for the V3.5, filedropper links doesn't have it anymore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj6404 Posted February 20, 2016 Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 I haven't been on here in awhile but hoping I can get some advice. Been real busy lately and vaping on the same SS316L 24G fused claptoned with 36G KA1 for almost a month now. It's been through maybe four rinses/rewicks and they are pretty tan/brown now. Like the brown from oxidation? not from juice gunk. As in, I'm able to burn/rinse all the gunk off but the wires are still brown. Does everyone still think they are OK to vape on? I've asked this question before on other forums and always get a mix of answers but I still ask again and again because I'm hoping some metallurgist will see it and impart some educated advice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerkai Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 THANKS!!! Wayneo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Those were created by Jacquith. He did the hard lifting, I just posted the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insidery Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Jaquith said: wow Platinum is CrAzY expensive $70 for one frigging coil. LOL it looks just like SS but it doesn't oxidize. idk how u came up with this price, but i got my platinum wire delivery from local jewelry store 2 day agoi paid around 50 bucks(29.75 per gramm) got enough wire to make 6-7 coils with 6 wraps eachabusing google and infrared thermometer i found tcr of 0.003918 pretty accurate. overall platinum doesnt have metallic taste which im getting from nickel and its alot more accurate in tc than SS316 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adisjepan Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi, would someone be so kind and reupload those filedropper links ? Thank you so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerom Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 hello :-)have read 3 pages of the thread and didn't see an answer for my question....i use dna200 lavabox and vaporshark.1. whats the temp. in fahrenheit for SS316l - 450 ? 420?2. whats the temp for nickel?3. whats the temp. for titanium?when i switch profiles, temp. is 450 everywhere... is that correct?i've got my profiles from vaporshark team 3 month ago .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 The answer to all 3 of your questions is this.The proper temperature for each is the temperature that YOU enjoy vaping it.That 450 you see everywhere is merely the default temperature someone else configured. Both your boxes have up/down buttons that you can change that 450. Personally I'd start at say 390, and test from there. You'll find the warmth you like the most. You'll also notice that each of your juices will taste different bringing out more or less of a specific flavor at different temps.I'm usually a 420-450 kinda guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerom Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Thanks Wayneo !!! Another question about SS316L.Had some experiments with it. Made coils 0.5 ohm, tried also 0.35 ohm. 28 gauge. Spaced. Put in my favorite liquid.Seems like my liquid lost it taste with SS. I have a lot of vapor but the taste is just sweet. And with Kanthal this liquid has very complexed and good taste.Am I doing anything wrong? Tried 25 - 100 w - same result ... no taste, just sweetness..thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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