Temperature Control not working at all.

[millersd95]

My DNA200 is having issues with Temperatue Control, with no regards to type of wire. I've tried a couple of different atomizers and disposable coil heads for a couple different tanks. I will either get no read out of temperature (as if I had attached a non-temperature sensing coil), or one that is incredibly off, such as firing at 0.1W and reading a temperature of 800F, while the coil is cold. The resistance reading also seems to be off. If I install a coil into one of my tanks that has a resistance of .12, I'm getting a reading of .30-.40 cold. Could this be a short/ground or something to the 510? Can I fix this myself, or do I need to get it worked on? Is it the board? The device works fine in normal Kanthal power mode. But I've had very little success with temperature control on the device. Is this something I can fix myself?

Lately, the device is not recognizing temperature-sensing wire at all. It seems to think everything is Kanthal.

[VapingBad]

Has the mod resistance on the mod tab been set to the wrong value, if it is set make a note of the value and then try it with the mod resistance set to zero.  It's on Mod tab in Escribe.

[millersd95]

Well, I talked to Nick with customer service at Evolv, and he's saying it sounds like a 510 issue. I'm going to contact Flawless, who made the box, and see what they say or can do to help.

Also, the mod resistance was already set to 0.

[latexyankee]

Same issue, tried 10 or so builds, brand new device. TC has not worked yet with ni200 or TI everything fires as kanthal regardless of profile set. Caught fire in my mouth at work, these seem to be pretty shabby boards.

[blueridgedog]

latexyankee said:

Same issue, tried 10 or so builds, brand new device. TC has not worked yet with ni200 or TI everything fires as kanthal regardless of profile set. Caught fire in my mouth at work, these seem to be pretty shabby boards.

Can you give an example of a build that won't work in TC mode?  What wire, starting resistance and atomizer?  Typically TC mode failure is usually the 510 connection or atomizer.

Though it has been stated many times on this forum, if your 510, its associated wiring or your atomizer has a substantial initial resistance, and your build is very low resistance, then the change in resistance the mod sees will be small as a percentage and therefore it will assume the wire is non-TC wire.  

[speed4mee]

I think you've made something wrong. You use a Reuleaux that i can see from ECF.
Be sure to run the latest EScribe Software and load the latest Firmware according to:
http://www.wismec.com/product/reuleaux-dna200/
You can also load the setting file.
First you can control the resistance of your atomizer with Atomizer Analyzer.
If you change settings don't forget to klick Upload Settings to Device.
Another method is to go to Device Monitor to control your Settings.

Try it and be Patient, it's worth  

[latexyankee]

blueridgedog said:

[QUOTE=latexyankee]Same issue, tried 10 or so builds, brand new device. TC has not worked yet with ni200 or TI everything fires as kanthal regardless of profile set. Caught fire in my mouth at work, these seem to be pretty shabby boards.

Can you give an example of a build that won't work in TC mode?  What wire, starting resistance and atomizer?  Typically TC mode failure is usually the 510 connection or atomizer.

Though it has been stated many times on this forum, if your 510, its associated wiring or your atomizer has a substantial initial resistance, and your build is very low resistance, then the change in resistance the mod sees will be small as a percentage and therefore it will assume the wire is non-TC wire.  


[/QUOTE] Any build that is not Kanthal. Lets see... Single 28g ni200 Single 26g ni200 Dual 28g ni200 Dual 26g ni200 Ni200 clapton 26/28 Ni200 clapton 28/30 Cci triforce prebuilt coil head at .1 ohms, tried 2 of them. For attys using a velocity clone and a Alliance.

[latexyankee]

speed4mee said:

I think you've made something wrong. You use a Reuleaux that i can see from ECF.
Be sure to run the latest EScribe Software and load the latest Firmware according to:
http://www.wismec.com/product/reuleaux-dna200/
You can also load the setting file.
First you can control the resistance of your atomizer with Atomizer Analyzer.
If you change settings don't forget to klick Upload Settings to Device.
Another method is to go to Device Monitor to control your Settings.

Try it and be Patient, it's worth  

Downloaded the settings from Wismec and uploaded the .ecig file to device before I even had my first vape. I've used the atty analyzer but i'm unsure of what it does. I thought it was more of a test, says that resistance should change on tightening. The atty does jump around so i figured it was ok, i dont remeber seeing an option to save or whatever but i was drinking and very tired. Ill check that again later. Any other ideas before i ship it off? Again, it worked ONCE on my second build for a few hours at night and in the morning using 28g dual ni200. I switched on the tank to drive to work and after that all went to hell tc has never returned. My builds are pretty solid, i can usually spot a defect on my part, post holes are tight on the velocity, stripped one of the screws second guessing myself. Been about 12 hours of frustration over the past 2 days, i am out of ideas.

[cukrus]

do simple 5 wrap single coil and dont over tighten the screw ffs, it's not kanthal... 

Before screwing the atty on, do a hard reset.

That doesnt work,warranty

[CanadianCough]

i dont know if you have figured it out or not but this is a bug that can be worked around. My friend and i both have the same issue with our lava boxes with correct settings. Its just an annoying bug that will be fixed. We dont know what causes it. SO lets get to the steps....


1. put on your atty with desired build click yes for new coil 
2. set watts to desired setting
3. fire mod for quick sec. does it display temp readout? obviously not.

this is where fixing it comes in

4. lock device and turn off temp by scrolling all the way up, not down
5. unlock device
6. fire device
7. re lock device and set temp do desired setting 
8. unlock and fire, the device should be reading your temps correctly now 

if this doesnt work, instead of setting watts to desired setting in step 2 set them to 1w and fire the continuing the process and set watts to desired setting before firing in step 8.


I have been looking literally everywhere for someone else who knows about this bug instead of just saying MOD ISSUE WARRANTY SEND IT BACK. My friend and i have not been able to figure out which setting is causing this so we believe it is just a programming bug. Im scared this bug wont be caught and fixed for a while because its so unknown, which really sucks because its f*cking annoying locking and unlocking and resetting everything multiple times. i dont really know how to explain this bug, everyone looks at me like im crazy when i say its just a bug and dont believe me and have some reason why its not. is there a point in posting to "report a bug"? im new but a lot of it seems largly just community and not the developer of the chip giving a fuck. 

best of luck and hope your DNA200 is still in your hands and not on the wind powered sail boat back to the supplier.

[Cliff]

CanadianCough said:

i dont know if you have figured it out or not but this is a bug that can be worked around. My friend and i both have the same issue with our lava boxes with correct settings. Its just an annoying bug that will be fixed. We dont know what causes it. SO lets get to the steps....


1. put on your atty with desired build click yes for new coil 
2. set watts to desired setting
3. fire mod for quick sec. does it display temp readout? obviously not.

this is where fixing it comes in

4. lock device and turn off temp by scrolling all the way up, not down
5. unlock device
6. fire device
7. re lock device and set temp do desired setting 
8. unlock and fire, the device should be reading your temps correctly now 

if this doesnt work, instead of setting watts to desired setting in step 2 set them to 1w and fire the continuing the process and set watts to desired setting before firing in step 8.


I have been looking literally everywhere for someone else who knows about this bug instead of just saying MOD ISSUE WARRANTY SEND IT BACK. My friend and i have not been able to figure out which setting is causing this so we believe it is just a programming bug. Im scared this bug wont be caught and fixed for a while because its so unknown, which really sucks because its f*cking annoying locking and unlocking and resetting everything multiple times. i dont really know how to explain this bug, everyone looks at me like im crazy when i say its just a bug and dont believe me and have some reason why its not. is there a point in posting to "report a bug"? im new but a lot of it seems largly just community and not the developer of the chip giving a fuck. 

best of luck and hope your DNA200 is still in your hands and not on the wind powered sail boat back to the supplier.

CanadianCough's workaround worked for me on a VS. My temperature control issue starts after I have been chain vaping and the next and subsequent pulls are weak and anemic. I have noted when the issue happens that the resistance of the NI200 coil decreases by .01 to .03 ohms and then stops changing. Might be an issue with how the board automatically continues to refine the resistance of the coil and how refinement affects temperature control operation. I hope Evolv issues a fix soon - work arounds are a pain; especially when you consider the cost of a DNA 200 mod.

[justchil]

I don't use temp control much (or at all because it's never been a good vape for me) but I picked up a Smok TFV4 TF-STC2 coil for kicks.  I have to hard reboot through escribe to get temp control to work at all.  It may just be this coil but at 60w temp set at 420F I don't even reach 200F.  

I tried everything but the only thing that made it kick into temp mode for me was the hard reboot.

[blueridgedog]

I too would like to see more individuals who think they have this issue describe it.  Thus far, every "out of TC mode" issue I have had could be traced back to to high or variable mod/atomizer base resistance, i.e. I was able to fix it.

[anc]

My experience on using titanium wires on my VS DNA200. My build, 24awg on a 3mm diameter bit, .28 ohms on a deck B squape. Yesterday I was using this set up on my sx mini m mod working flawlessly, halfway on my tank. I mounted it on the VS DNA 200, it worked perfectly too, so good I finished my tank. I made the same exact build, same ohms but its not firing well, temperature seems weak. I tried the procedure above just now and its now working well again.

[anc]

Celebrated too early, ain't working again

[ACWalkerII]

I'm having a similar issue. Dual coil 10 wrap each, 3mm bit, 24g Ni200, set at 400 degrees and 80 Watts.

Some times it works and works well. And then out of no where it stops working, I get the ---F no temp read out and it seems to be pushing straight power to the Ni200 coils. If I sit there and hold the fire button it will fire until the juice is all gone the coils go red hot and literally burst into flames.

The last time this happen I decided to build new coils. These new coils id have set up nearly the same way. Instead of ---F Id get a reading of 2000+ degrees and then it would stop firing for being over temp. After a few times firing it the temp reading would then go back to ---F and start firing straight power to the Ni200 coils.

Mod: Reuleaux DNA200
Atti: CCI Archon
Coil wire: Ni200 from Lightningvapes

[anc]

Tried the hard reboot, and so far my titanium build on the squape seems to be working.

[JaySoCal]

One quick way I have found if my atty falls out of temp control is vape it in non tc 2 to 3 puffs. Remove the atty so resistance shows 0 on the mod. Suck through it a few times to cool coil. Then reattach atty select old coil then it jumps back in temp control. Just make shure you don't select new coil resistance will be wrong if it goes into temp control and can make it harder to get it to go into temp control

[Voku]

ACWalkerII said:

I'm having a similar issue. Dual coil 10 wrap each, 3mm bit, 24g Ni200, set at 400 degrees and 80 Watts.

Some times it works and works well. And then out of no where it stops working, I get the ---F no temp read out and it seems to be pushing straight power to the Ni200 coils. If I sit there and hold the fire button it will fire until the juice is all gone the coils go red hot and literally burst into flames.

The last time this happen I decided to build new coils. These new coils id have set up nearly the same way. Instead of ---F Id get a reading of 2000+ degrees and then it would stop firing for being over temp. After a few times firing it the temp reading would then go back to ---F and start firing straight power to the Ni200 coils.

Mod: Reuleaux DNA200
Atti: CCI Archon
Coil wire: Ni200 from Lightningvapes

I had a similar problem , and after a while Wismec stopped working. Now it is out of warranty at the store.It seems to me that the issue of 510 there was no response from the atomizer + low backlight of lcd

[Jimithybee]

ACWalkerII said:

I'm having a similar issue. Dual coil 10 wrap each, 3mm bit, 24g Ni200, set at 400 degrees and 80 Watts.

Some times it works and works well. And then out of no where it stops working, I get the ---F no temp read out and it seems to be pushing straight power to the Ni200 coils. If I sit there and hold the fire button it will fire until the juice is all gone the coils go red hot and literally burst into flames.

The last time this happen I decided to build new coils. These new coils id have set up nearly the same way. Instead of ---F Id get a reading of 2000+ degrees and then it would stop firing for being over temp. After a few times firing it the temp reading would then go back to ---F and start firing straight power to the Ni200 coils.

Mod: Reuleaux DNA200
Atti: CCI Archon
Coil wire: Ni200 from Lightningvapes

I am having the exact same issue, only on a Vaporshark DNA200. I have not been able to get any temp control wires to work, neither spaced not contact, EXCEPT for 316L 26g wire. I've been trying tonight to get some sweet spot titanium wire working, and am using their CSV files, with no luck still. I am going to try the fix when I am able to swap back to temp coils (decided to pop some Ni80 coils in) but am hesitant because I read on another post that the method was thought to be the cause of another user's fuse blowing on his board or something? It doesn't seem like there is anything that would cause any problems though so I'm thinking it was just coincidence? But has anyone else been having similar issues, or are there any other solutions that people have found? PS - one detail I forgot to mention is that when my resistance is locked, it will occasionally become spontaneously unlocked without me doing anything, or the resistance will change even while locked. Is this normal? What is the correct use for resistance locking, as I have read a few posts suggesting that it is not meant to be used every time you vape temp control

[Spector NS5 RD]

Jimithybee said:

[QUOTE=ACWalkerII]I'm having a similar issue. Dual coil 10 wrap each, 3mm bit, 24g Ni200, set at 400 degrees and 80 Watts.

Some times it works and works well. And then out of no where it stops working, I get the ---F no temp read out and it seems to be pushing straight power to the Ni200 coils. If I sit there and hold the fire button it will fire until the juice is all gone the coils go red hot and literally burst into flames.

The last time this happen I decided to build new coils. These new coils id have set up nearly the same way. Instead of ---F Id get a reading of 2000+ degrees and then it would stop firing for being over temp. After a few times firing it the temp reading would then go back to ---F and start firing straight power to the Ni200 coils.

Mod: Reuleaux DNA200
Atti: CCI Archon
Coil wire: Ni200 from Lightningvapes

I am having the exact same issue, only on a Vaporshark DNA200. I have not been able to get any temp control wires to work, neither spaced not contact, EXCEPT for 316L 26g wire. I've been trying tonight to get some sweet spot titanium wire working, and am using their CSV files, with no luck still. I am going to try the fix when I am able to swap back to temp coils (decided to pop some Ni80 coils in) but am hesitant because I read on another post that the method was thought to be the cause of another user's fuse blowing on his board or something? It doesn't seem like there is anything that would cause any problems though so I'm thinking it was just coincidence? But has anyone else been having similar issues, or are there any other solutions that people have found? PS - one detail I forgot to mention is that when my resistance is locked, it will occasionally become spontaneously unlocked without me doing anything, or the resistance will change even while locked. Is this normal? What is the correct use for resistance locking, as I have read a few posts suggesting that it is not meant to be used every time you vape temp control [/QUOTE]if it's dumping you out of temp control with all wires, it's most likely a connection issue, a crazy high base resistance that does not reflect the actual base res of your coil. could be anything from the atty you're using to the stability of the 510 connection to how your wire leads are trapped in your atty. if your base res shifts one way or the other even while locked it means you're no longer in temp mode and regular power mode. it will not lock your base res in power mode. find out how stable your build is by opening up atty analyzer and watch your raw ohms as you fiddle with the atty i.e. wiggle it, tap the mod, tap your wire lead ends where they tie into the atty, etc. mod resistance also should be set correctly for an accurate base res reading.

you also need to make sure you're using the correct wire CSV/or TCR value for the specific wire you are using. make sure you're in the right profile for the correct wire type you're trying to TC. 

[Thatguy]

Does anyone know if this issue was due to mod/atty high res or was it an actual bug, did it get fixed?

[Olive]

I have been also having this problem. Is there a solution for this?? I've been trying to make the temperature work for days by building new coils and trying to decipher the user manual with no use. The temperature worked once and didn't display anything after. Any advice is appreciated!!

[giz_60]

Olive said:

I have been also having this problem. Is there a solution for this?? I've been trying to make the temperature work for days by building new coils and trying to decipher the user manual with no use. The temperature worked once and didn't display anything after. Any advice is appreciated!!

You are going to need to supply some more info...atomizer type, wire, device...a screenshot of your wire profile, 'Mod' tab & 'Device Monitor' while firing the device would help too...the more info the better!!!

Edit: On 'Device Monitor', be sure to tick off the 'Pack', 'Power', 'Power Set', 'Temperature', 'Temperature Set', 'Cold Ohms', 'Live Ohms' boxes...

[Yggdrasil]

I'm having problems with TC using a Therion 133 and an authentic Goon 24. The build I'm using is a single coil, 24ga, spaced, SS316L, 8 wraps, 3.5mm ID. The ohm reading .38. When firing inTC mode, the temp with increase drastically, to the point I can't get a hit from the atomizer. It goes almost straight to temp protection. I tried setting mod resistance to zero from .006. I'll try to upload some screenshots soon.