John

How many dollars do you require to work here?

I don't know what you mean by "metric" in this context. A line is two points, two segments are three points, etc.

Yes, you can pull the actuator cap off the buttons quite easily if you need to. The buttons are, however, much harder to de-solder than the DNA 40 fire button, due to construction differences.

Or... is it? *magic*

Is the titanium atomizer cool when you switch back to it?

Wick yours was a clearance issue as far as we can tell. Still dissecting JiPhone's today.

You can already turn off the temperature protected message. It is a setting in Escribe. You can also make it show the temperature in the main display.

If you are switching between profiles with the Ti coil installed, it shouldn't ask you if it is a new coil, or if it does (because it is hot or whatever) Is the coil resistance it reads in atomizer analyzer different after switching between profiles? We'll take a look.

Define "without success" if you don't mind. What did or didn't it do, and what TCR curve or value were you using?

Probably, so add live ohms to the device monitor graph to save and post when it is doing it. With that we can know exactly what is going on. Also, what firmware version?

It definitely should not say it or limit you with a nickel coil. That would be a bug. Can you post a device monitor plot of a hit where you are temperature controlling and it limits to 100 watts? Plot the output power and the temperature. Thanks John

But they only swell if given the space to, and they only swell across their thickness.

Has your DNA 200 mod recognized other coils properly? That certainly looks properly built.

It isn't going to happen on the DNA 200, the system is far, far too close to finalized to add a major feature like that, and it would make the board larger and more expensive. So don't look for it this year, but if the price for bluetooth connectivity continues to fall and the modules continue to shrink, I wouldn't rule it out as a built in feature for a late 2016 or 2017 model.

It needs to be 70F, but realistically if you normalize around 68 you'll only have a few degrees worth of error. It is only Escribe. If you right click on the data point in the graph editor it will show you full precision. Internally it is 16 bits below the decimal point. That's increments of 0.0000152587890625 I'll let James answer about the internals. I know there is a limit just due to storage space (remember, we carry one for each profile) but I'm not sure what it is.

To disable usb charging: Go to Device Monitor, then click on Diagnostics, then click "Set USB Current Limit" and type in 0 amps When you're done, do the same thing but click "Reset USB Current Limit"

In normal operation, the board runs somewhere between 100 and 150F. This is the foam tape we used to hold the screen in the beta mods: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7109a31/=y3hy2a It is probably overkill, but it works nicely and you don't need much per unit.

You can use a chassis ground. Make sure you have good electrical contact to the mount pads.

By default, if it sees more than a 25% difference between the resistance at which you locked the atomizer and what it is reading now, it will assume that there is a new coil and lock to the new ohms. We do this because otherwise, if you had something with a .5 ohm cold resistance locked, and screw on a .1 ohm without unlocking it would try to preheat (possibly at 200W) to something like 1 ohm. Which would be several thousand degrees. Suboptimal. However, if you have an atomizer that is making terrible contact or shifts around significantly, you can make it consider a wider range. The setting is in Mod, under Electrical, Ohm Lock Range. Try setting that to somewhat wider, maybe 40% for your particularly shifty RDA

Yup, that wouldn't cause any problems

Well, like Brandon says, we are always working on new things.

No reason you can't use a right angle connector solder through the holes, rather than a straight connector surface mounted. Or use an extension cable soldered into the holes. The battery taps don't carry any fast data signals or anything like that, and the max current is 40 milliamps, so you can pretty much move or wire them willy nilly and as long as they're making contact you're good to go.

The switches are onboard the DNA 200. The solid models for the cap actuators are available on this forum. They 3d print okay, or you can machine them. We machined them. How many do you need?

Yep, that will work fine. The notch is important, otherwise if you drop the device the cable can get jolted out, and nobody wants that. John

Correct. There is also a newer one in limited testing that will be going up publicly tomorrow. See if you get this same results with 6/26, and if so then try it with the new one.