Podunk Steam

I may very well have a Think Vape Ranger to bring up to snuff anyway. Seems to be a rare beast, just not much on it out on the wire.

I was lead to believe this would be a straight forward swap from the garbage 80 watt board the mod came with that wouldn't even adjust wattage in TC mods, not so much really. I complicated the swap a little by 86ing the Vape Cige 510 that looked pretty questionable, may hear of them failing up in here soon. 24mm is just a hair too wide on the sides of the mod so I used a 22mm 510 with a copper center pin. The greater of the challenge is in the actuators for the buttons, in the 80 they protrude on the back side, in the 60 the up and down bar is just about flat while the fire button is recessed on the back side for the micro switches body as well as the stem. Wouldn't be an easy task with rotary tools, files and such! Circuit board location isn't all that easy, UV glue can be your friend there, the display does have a good recessed area to seat into where again the UV glue came in handy. I wasn't rushing it and spent about 4 hours with the swap. It's a tight little unit now, not a hint of button rattle, USB is seated well and does what is should. Only a few pics to share, one of the - wire reroute because of the 510s locking nut and the other just showing the exterior. wire reroute Exterior .

Thanks, have you tried the VV MTL?

All good things as they say evidently.... Thanks

Are we there yet?

Vandy Vape Superfine 316L MTL wire. I've been vaping TC since the launch of the DNA 40 and this wire is about the best I've found for TC bar none. I'm no affiliate of Vandy Vape, I'm not even in the vape business anymore, I'm just sharing what I have found as it works and works very well. As a basic explanation, tension wrap your coils by anchoring one end of the wire and wrap towards the anchor point maintaining tension on the wraps, space the coils to just about the width of the wire, too close and you'll just get a bunch of popping andspitting. that's all you need to know. This coil spacing pictured would be just a hair too close although it vapes very well and works well with 316L TC it just pops and spits a bit much for some. Keeping the ohms resistance up lowers the amperage and utilizes more voltage making for a more efficient circuit demanding less from your batteries which is a safer vape. Enjoy! ;0) Edit; Pics didn't work so well, I give!

WOW! All that and I was just looking for a suggested ohms resistance for extended battery life utilizing the 75C.

Thanks for the reply! At this point I think it was the coils connections that were the issue.

First day new Mirage So far I've loaded Daniels theme ( DJLsb) Updated 316L to 0.00092 TCR Changed unlock number of clicks and sequence Single coiled my Ammit 25 with a 316L flat clapton 0.3x0.8x32 Locked resistance at 0.27 ohms And once the mod takes a nap and I have to wake it with the unlock sequence the TC is whacked. It hits Temp protect before it even heats the coil enough to make vapor. Would this be the issue I've heard of with combination wire 316L coils and the DNA 75C? Trace issues across the different sized wires in the clapton coils? Any fix applicable? I have tried searching this topic with no luck so I'm posting. Edit: If I change to Wattage, fire the coil, change back to TC the TC works again. Think I found the issue, tightened the coils connection again and resistance dropped to .23, back to Escribe with me.

Thank you!

The 75C and 250C "replay" feature will be included in the non-international firmware?

Badassedness! I haven't ran through all parameters yet although a quick check looks good on Mint 18 with Cinnamon desktop.

I appreciate the mention of the potential issues with some 510 connectors! I purchased one recently and was very hesitant so I stretched my google legs and found this thread. The press fit/swedge cut brass used to solder to was just spinning and would have really played havoc in consideration of ohms resistance, besides for atomizers 24mm and larger the o-ring seated in the deck wouldn't have sealed. It was about .015" or .020" I removed from the outer lip so larger atomizers would contact the seated o-ring in the deck. To stabilize any resistance fluctuations I press fit a piece of copper tightly onto the center pin. We'll see how this all works out eventually. Edit: Oh, I barbed and tappered the end of the center pin too. [QUOTE] Hiya Dennis,I don't mean to offend you with this, please consider it creative criticism.I bought one of your V4 Ultimate Edition 22/24 mm 510s with the o-ring seated in the deck and noticed some potential issues so I've fixed them.If utilizing a 24mm atomizer the o-ring wouldn't have contacted the bottom of the atomizer potentially pooling liquid in the catch well, this was an easy fix. I turned off about .015" to .020" of the outer rim on the lathe, no biggy.The other thing I noticed is that the brass sleeve for conductor soldering was spinning fairly freely. In my opinion this looked like a less than proper electrical connection so again I fixed it. I milled a piece of copper to press fit very tightly over the end of the center pin. A minor change I made was to barb and tapper the end of the center pin as well.Just a friendly heads up as after noticing these things I searched the net and your reputation has been faltering, whether by way of manufacturers or design in todays world this can't be much good.stay away from fat daddy vapes v5 510 - Evolv DNA Forum[/QUOTE]

Outstanding mod Wibberly! That one really hits home with me.

Bahahahaha!

I'm real curious about the construction of the VT myself, it's way out of spec IMHO and a leaky shipping crate may very well have caused some corrosion between the brass 510 and zinc housing. I like the styling of the housing but it all ends about there.

The atomizers names have not been mentioned in this thread to protect the innocent Bum de bump bump

More of a question than anything but may the zinc alloy case and press fit looking brass 510 be creating an issue. some metals just don't mix well and what I know as galvanic response could be playing in. Anybody run a case test on the VT yet? Edit: I failed to mention the brass 510 center pin that is chrome plated. Not exactly built to spec anyway.

Just happened across a vid and remembered this thread, Calix is one of them.

A new job and a cold have slowed my progress with the mods a bit but I do have some 30Qs on the way now. My guess is they should serve a 133 watt build well but it has yet to be seen, also I'm not a high watt vaper.

New job has taken priority although I'll be accustom to the new schedule soon enough. Been doing the antsie new employee thing, wake up at 2 in the morning can't back to sleep, show up an hour early for work, first good nights sleep since I started last night, might be melting into the groove.

Consider this an opinion of an arm chair engineer which it really is. I don't consider the construction the DX 200 to be stable for the long haul, it's not bad or at least mine isn't. Expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals along with galvanic response taken into account, yes, I personally say go for the 510 swap but find yourself a copper center pin that's silver, gold or rhodium plated would likely be the best direction to take. Hotcig didn't leave much room for a locking nut so thread tapping of the 510s hole and some creative work with a locking nut and better terminal ring than most 510s come with would be suggested and a little Nolox would be a good idea too. Removal of any coatings where the terminal ring would make contact would be suggested as well. The harder you push the device the more important I would consider the 510 swap to be.

Way more better start on this one! Should suffice as long as I don't botch the hand work on the ends.

Maybe the rumor I heard of a serviceable 18650 pack was just smoke some vaper was blowing than.