Podunk Steam

My luck hasn't been so good with verticals other than of Fogger build a while back. Seems the wick moves away for the coils with the liquid popping, beside them being a bit warm for my taste.

24 gauge Ti wire was giving me a bit of an issue with contact coils so I started making mock contact coils (little spaces in between coils) and they are working well for me so far. Lemo2 11 wraps 24 gauge on a 3.5mm mandrel ohms tested at .47.

It's a nice box, I plan to mill an inlay with standoffs for mounting the 200 although it will have to wait. I just recieved my 3D print I've been waiting on for almost a month now, thanks to a print company that isn't as good as Sculpteo is. It looks awesome, button actuators slid right in, battery contacts are the right distance apart. I guess I'm a decent Blender hack.

Some 510s use a smaller diameter spring than others that can be a real challenge to get over wire as large as 14 gauge is. I just bored out the plastic in a 510 and used a large enough diameter spring it slid over the 14 without any hassles at all.

These are pretty nice!

Very nice!

They may ship cross the pond but I don't know for sure. I've started working on my second mod before the first now, yeah I get bassackwards often. One customized 510 connector. Flat milled mount surface, shortened the 510 threading at the back because the copper center pin was too low, bored out the plastic for a larger diameter spring, soldered up the 14 gauge. That much is ready anyway. The edges on the 1590A could use a rounding mill, other than that what I have here is sweet. No magnets needed, almost a press fit putting the lid on. These boxes buff out pretty nice too, a little way to go with this one yet but getting there. I did create some extra work for myself with the rounding mill, got a couple thousandths deep so I had to clean it up.

I thought I'd share a build option being it just showed up today. The Mod Crate 1590A looks to be a very respectable housing. I have to acquire another 200 for this build as the one I have is ear marked for a 3D print that should show up tomorrow. I've contacted Mod Crate and mentioned IGES file availability in this forum so we'll see where that goes. So mean while or nice while which ever way you'd prefer to verse it here's a pic.

Springs this small don't have much metal to them so they will heat readily although the carbon content in quality springs is likely higher than cheap spring steel. I have seen springs that have lost temper being heated with soldering irons in this same manner and I'm not the first. Granted these I've seen were cheap Chinese springs, it does, has and likely will happen to someone again. I'm sorry you're mistaken, I'm not the slightest bit hostile or there'd be no question as to my state. I honestly don't consider it good practice to heat springs in the process of soldering. I own it, my opinion, you're welcome to yours as I am mine. Nothing to be hostile about here. Salute

I had to go check on this and it all depends on the metallurgy, 1400F sounded very high to me. Cheap spring steel you might as well sign off at 250F. Most springs temper is lost at 700F or less. Annealing of metals happens at much higher temperatures than Tempering of metals.

I'm referring to the heat on the spring and the diameter of the cups hole being so close to the springs diameter.

Sorry I don't like it.

Although I don't remember the connector manufacturer this is 14 gauge high strand count silicone coated wire. A bit of a trick to get this far with it. I pulled the insulation back on the wire, cut the wire, slid the insulation over the end of the wire, cut the insulation at an angle, fed the insulation through the cup and than the spring.

So you're saying the spring will fit over the insulation of a 12 gauge wire?

So you heat synced the wire in order to not over heat the spring?

Sounds as though not heating the spring might be a trick

Besides milling a custom 510 pin the 12 gauge looks like a real trick to me, a little easier if real copper wire could be found anymore.

Sounds pretty redundant when you say it like that. I'll go work on my tooth pick some more I guess.

Soldering heat syncs are a good thing, a little fiberglass tape on the other side of the board helps to not transfer the heat through the sync too.

This has been my flavor for a while now although the price has probably gone up a fair margin. Anything with a higher silver content would have me fearing overheating components. Yeah there'd likely be little difference in conductivity the way I try to solder anyway. I try and use alligator or some form of pressurizing clips to hold wires in place while soldering to get as substantial a mechanical bond as possible while soldering, splaying wires if possible.....

My first build is still in the postponed stages although looking at the board again I was wondering what the make up of the solder would be on the board at the contact points? I'm just a fans of the silver bearing solder is the reason I ask. I've been lead to believe that silver bearing solder can lend up to 15% more conductivity than other compositions of solders. Yeah I could over engineer a tooth pick.

Maybe moisture in the 510?

I think you need some more stuff in that box, like AIR! That is tight in there! Then it looked like the poor tube mods guts were strung out all over the place, seriously taxing my emotions I tell you! Glad to see it worked out for you!

Should there be concern with battery swelling the way they crammed the battery in there? I'm with the understanding these Lipos can swell to + 15% resting size. Edit: If you have the tools a threaded bushing could be a reasonable fix for the 510, even a good press fit with the anodizing removed should fly.

Pretty sure the fuse type is on page 10 of the manual, if memory serves me anyway.