Podunk Steam

Very nice!

They may ship cross the pond but I don't know for sure. I've started working on my second mod before the first now, yeah I get bassackwards often. One customized 510 connector. Flat milled mount surface, shortened the 510 threading at the back because the copper center pin was too low, bored out the plastic for a larger diameter spring, soldered up the 14 gauge. That much is ready anyway. The edges on the 1590A could use a rounding mill, other than that what I have here is sweet. No magnets needed, almost a press fit putting the lid on. These boxes buff out pretty nice too, a little way to go with this one yet but getting there. I did create some extra work for myself with the rounding mill, got a couple thousandths deep so I had to clean it up.

I thought I'd share a build option being it just showed up today. The Mod Crate 1590A looks to be a very respectable housing. I have to acquire another 200 for this build as the one I have is ear marked for a 3D print that should show up tomorrow. I've contacted Mod Crate and mentioned IGES file availability in this forum so we'll see where that goes. So mean while or nice while which ever way you'd prefer to verse it here's a pic.

Springs this small don't have much metal to them so they will heat readily although the carbon content in quality springs is likely higher than cheap spring steel. I have seen springs that have lost temper being heated with soldering irons in this same manner and I'm not the first. Granted these I've seen were cheap Chinese springs, it does, has and likely will happen to someone again. I'm sorry you're mistaken, I'm not the slightest bit hostile or there'd be no question as to my state. I honestly don't consider it good practice to heat springs in the process of soldering. I own it, my opinion, you're welcome to yours as I am mine. Nothing to be hostile about here. Salute

I had to go check on this and it all depends on the metallurgy, 1400F sounded very high to me. Cheap spring steel you might as well sign off at 250F. Most springs temper is lost at 700F or less. Annealing of metals happens at much higher temperatures than Tempering of metals.

I'm referring to the heat on the spring and the diameter of the cups hole being so close to the springs diameter.

Sorry I don't like it.

Although I don't remember the connector manufacturer this is 14 gauge high strand count silicone coated wire. A bit of a trick to get this far with it. I pulled the insulation back on the wire, cut the wire, slid the insulation over the end of the wire, cut the insulation at an angle, fed the insulation through the cup and than the spring.

So you're saying the spring will fit over the insulation of a 12 gauge wire?

So you heat synced the wire in order to not over heat the spring?

Sounds as though not heating the spring might be a trick

Besides milling a custom 510 pin the 12 gauge looks like a real trick to me, a little easier if real copper wire could be found anymore.

Sounds pretty redundant when you say it like that. I'll go work on my tooth pick some more I guess.

Soldering heat syncs are a good thing, a little fiberglass tape on the other side of the board helps to not transfer the heat through the sync too.

This has been my flavor for a while now although the price has probably gone up a fair margin. Anything with a higher silver content would have me fearing overheating components. Yeah there'd likely be little difference in conductivity the way I try to solder anyway. I try and use alligator or some form of pressurizing clips to hold wires in place while soldering to get as substantial a mechanical bond as possible while soldering, splaying wires if possible.....

My first build is still in the postponed stages although looking at the board again I was wondering what the make up of the solder would be on the board at the contact points? I'm just a fans of the silver bearing solder is the reason I ask. I've been lead to believe that silver bearing solder can lend up to 15% more conductivity than other compositions of solders. Yeah I could over engineer a tooth pick.

Maybe moisture in the 510?

I think you need some more stuff in that box, like AIR! That is tight in there! Then it looked like the poor tube mods guts were strung out all over the place, seriously taxing my emotions I tell you! Glad to see it worked out for you!

Should there be concern with battery swelling the way they crammed the battery in there? I'm with the understanding these Lipos can swell to + 15% resting size. Edit: If you have the tools a threaded bushing could be a reasonable fix for the 510, even a good press fit with the anodizing removed should fly.

Pretty sure the fuse type is on page 10 of the manual, if memory serves me anyway.

Yeah you're best testing. I don't know what kinda of induction that low a volt and current would create in a loop but I doubt it would be significant. Edit: Too many variables to play with, different wire insulation, shielded, non-shielded wires... That could be a thought too, use some Belden shielded or similar.

Couldn't you treat it like an AC parallel feeder circuit and even up the wires lengths?

Pretty cool lookin chimp

Just tell Trump I voted for him when he wins. Seriously, thank you for the efforts made for all of us.

Very much appreciated, thank you! I recently got ahold of an Istick 40TC and charging's making me crazy is where my question was based from. It's been long enough since I used eGos I'd forgotten one of my own prerequisites. The power delivery I very much enjoy but the charging has me sending it off to my partner, not before I get measurements off it for a little tweaking though.