Podunk Steam

Personally I'd even up the length of your charging leads, you're going to get a greater resistance from the blue wire. Edit: Another option would be to splice a larger wire onto the blue wire to even up the resistance.

In my non-warrantied cracked up crystal ball I see fabrication of a 510 puller in my near future. Thanks for the input!

I'll share. I was working on a single core Clapton earlier but kept snapping the 28 gauge Ni200 core while wrapping on 32 gauge kanthal. I resorted to another means to try and extend the life of the 900 Mah Lipo cell being my first coil on a new device was clocking in at 0.04 ohms for test purposes. I'm calling this my "Hangover Coil" being the thought "I'll never do that again" kept coming to mind. Two strands of 30 gauge kanthal twisted with one strand of 30 gauge Ni200 wrapped on a 2.5mm mandrel in the Zephyrus. My 80 watt coil heat punch is about to get knocked down a bit, hooking up to EScribe right now. Jury's still out on the Hangover Coil. Edit: 50 watt coil heat for 2 seconds is way more suitable and somewhere around 420 F at 35 watts seems to be dialing this in nicely. Just like any good hangover it's bound to happen again sometime. Oh yeah! Tutti Frutti oh Rutti.......

The 510s negative connection I'd have in question, it's been my only concern as I have one of the Hotcigs too. I originally intended to change out the 510 connector but didn't find need after opening the device up. I've personally been running below spec just to see if anything goes South early on, 0.04 ohms resistance coil but only pushed at 30 watts so far. This has been in an effort to see how the questionable negative contact at the 510 would hold. Pics for reference. Hotcig #0113

You might try texturing the the area around the screws and using JB Weld, the JB Kwik isn't what the JB Weld is. Edit: If you want to get real serious with it this stuff's got band-aide beat. This is not the same Plastic Steel as found in the tubes, the tubes I wouldn't bother with.

The project is still moving forward, at about tectonic speed. I got a coat of epoxy on the battery holder to keep the print filament together when it gets drilled. The back side will have an aluminum wrap that will come up the sides of the battery holder slightly and serve a few purposes. The silicone on the transducers will be removed and the aluminum wrap on the battery holder will be Arctic Silvered to the transducers. Kind of hunting with a Howitzer if you want to look at it that way but I doubt I'll have any regrets. Edit: Although tricky I think I just figured out a way to hand crank a 2 for the 200 watt version, this should be interesting!

It wasn't the shiny part that looked different, the protrusion top and bottom of the buttons isn't as pronounced in the picture of the anodized mod because of background colors and the size of the photo.

Sure looks different than the prototype posted. Edit: Sorry the angle of the photo changed the look.

Will the buttons protrude any more than the prototype? Any photos of the interior? Battery size? I don't do FB and don't have plans to any time soon. I've just realized I was right about my personal feelings for the Lipos, 900 mah doesn't last very long at all. Hope Hot Cig gets the dual 18650 packs out soon or this thing's likely going the way of the Dodos. I've even knocked the cutoff down to 3V. I guess I could bring my ohms up. I'm at .04 according to the DNA200 with a twisted 28 gauge Ni200 wrap on a 3.5mm mandrel, I'm hitting it with 30 watts.

They didn't do too bad with these. I'm fairly impressed and that doesn't happen easily with me.

I generally like a little more head space but my thoughts have been the Samsung 30Q could be a nice battery for a 133 watt build. HG2s have been pretty much neck and neck with the Q other than voltage favored to the Qs, this is why I thought they might be just a shade better. Any thoughts?

A couple more steps done anyway. What used to be the back of the box is now the front. The door which is now the back. I might set that 1 in a little deeper when I go back in the shop again. Had to even up things being I didn't want to mill through the USBs hole, space is at a premium. It worked out for a location for a little label. Being the mod does 133 watts that's what is going to be put on it, the 3s will be in the bar button controlling up and down features. Clean up the display and milled edges and this will just about be ready for coatings.

Looks like my Ti wire dry hit had nothing to do with the DNA 200 or its settings. The short portion of wire basically fell off the rest of the coil when I took the Lemo2 apart.

I posted this in the wrong thread but it's related to the topic so I left it. I still have the interior parts to mill but here's the general idea. Edit: I'll finish up with this one first and do a 200 watt later, should be room for either in the 1590A box. Routing the wires and connectors would be the trick for the 200. I would have started with the 200 but hand cracking a 2 on a mill, I'm just not at that skill level and if I ever get there I'll be surprised!

KTM Rider mentioned a round tooth pick in the hole nearest the connection point on the ribbon. I've tried it and it works well.

This is going to be seriously tight!

My guess is there was a sharp point on the solder and the battery wasn't anchored with a velcro strap or two sided tape so the point on the solder worked its way through the battery's shrink wrap. Something between the battery and circuit board and anchoring the battery would have made a difference I'd think. Just a guess. Edit: The Zippy line of batteries are not the highest of quality either but I call them as I see them.

Blame the battery?

Check your presets for wonky settings?

Oh good, glad I could help. Now I just have to figure out this Stream 7 and the loading process for my TCRs and such. Too many pots on the fire!

I was leery of the Lemo 2 before I bought them because of the originals positive connection and looking at the pictures. Hard to beat the fill method though. Too many tanks out there with more parts to the + connections than needed in my opinion as well, just about everything with pre-built coils. Edit: Just got my first Ti wire dry hit, don't bother with the Lemo 2 on TC! Ok, I haven't downloaded and installed from Steam Engine yet but have been running 100F shy of intended temp. Not sure I'll be trying that again! Ignorance bit me on that one! Touch screen is a whole new ball game for me and this tiny Stream 7 I haven't got wired yet.

Open up your Lemo2 and push the insulator and + pin out of the 510 threaded area. Reinstall both through the inside with the large part of the + pin toward the interior. The insulator has to go in very straight. For me this has fixed fluctuating resistance as well as others that have tried it.

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Thanks Blueridgedog! That's a different beasty and looks a lot more manageable with 12 gauge than other 510s out there. Oh boy, I snaked a display from a board for a repair being I ordered another display, hope they aren't out too long!

When you put a new atomizer on make sure its at room temp as well as the mod. Click the fire button, click yes to new atomizer, click five times again quickly to put the mod in lock mode. In lock mode press both the plus button and the fire button for a few seconds to lock in the atomizers resistance. Click the fire button five times quickly again and you're good to go. This locks in the atomizers resistance.