Rob_H

Need to know what length the whip is first and ill see what I can come up with. Screens are sourced parts as with everything else. Here is a good place to start the search and if OP could measure the length it would help out allot. Dna200 uses MI12832DO-W5 asfaik http://www.multi-inno.com/oled.asp

You should be able to find the screen with a long whip online. They are standard lengths and available with a little searching.

Yah ive got the bug too. Mostly if they come in Hana enclosures but a couple that do not (6 that do). I want to get a couple of the 60w's going. I have one Dna200 and one Dna133, not interested in the 250 or the 75 to much.

I have not heard of anyone getting any model of them yet.

Same here, very interested in a Dna60 model but want to see what it looks like. Mostly button placement, I imagine it using on board buttons with the screen stretched out below the up/down buttons or on the side like Hana does on their mods. Either way very curious to see something.

The pinouts on the main board are listed here so it should coincide with the charger board.

I use a 40w for wiring up boards and install. I have a 30w that I use for components but that does not get used very often. The 40w I can get on and off the board quickly with good joints. I think the recommended is 30w in most cases but I find that too be too cool.

After taking a normal puff does the meter rise?

What would be the hurdle to overcome doing this? I would think you would have to go into escribe and change the watt hours for the battery being used. Other than that everything should be the same.

Kayfun 5 on my Hana and 22mm Avocado on my 133.

I did see that. Nice you were able to make it so small. Where are the buttons at? I see where the fire button is but what about the others?

Thats awesome!

Those are nice mods you did I think I may have seen these over on ECF a long time ago. Not in this picture is a Dna133 I did in a Modcrate enclosure its one page back from where we are. And a Hana V4 mini Dna40.

Thats really nice! And you gave away your Dna250!

Ok I understand thank you.

LOL I have two Dna200's and 4 Dna40's and the highest any of them are set is 35w. I plan on modding out two of my Hana Dna40's and put Dna60's in them so I can still vape under 35w haha.

I thought I had read it was a 1amp board that comes with the Dna60. You have the option when purchasing the board to get the charger or not. You need it to work with Escribe I am pretty sure.

Nice collection Got any Dna40's or just the 200's and 75's.

How did you manage getting the screen into place upon reassembly? I have to reinstall a board that was faulty in my V200. Waiting for Evolv to repair or replace the old one, they have only had it for a few days but was wondering what the best approach would be. The original screen was hot glued in place. Was thinking maybe there was a better way.

The reference mod enclosure is pretty tiny. What enclosure were you thinking of using. I would imagine they would mill the reference enclosure to accept the dna60 and use the on board buttons. And maybe make it a little shorter? Although a 900mah lipo is about as tall as a 18650 in a sled so.......

Not trying to steal the thread from OP but I have to ask. Would this work with a Kanthal core and ni200 wrap, making a custom curve or is the two different materials not something the board would deal with.

I see on the main Evolv page they are building mods now in the Reference Mod enclosure. Dna250/200/75/60 and the prices are on point IMO. I will be going after a 60 I think, having two Dna200's a tiny little 60 will be pretty nice.

Oh yah I forgot about that. Oh well

I would like to see a firmware upgrade on the Dna133. Seems we could safely get 9v from a 133 configuration. I like to build above .50 and sometimes above 1ohm, would be nice to get a full 9v. Any talk about this at all?

So I am not 100% sold on pre-heat yet and I think I prefer not to have any. I have 4 profiles set up for SS. 2 with pre heat that is 10 to 20w higher than my normal watts. 2 with no pre heat. In a tank I am running .63 ohms spaced. Pre heat at 40 then back to 30w, with a temp setting around 450-480 depending upon my mood. In a dripper I am running .50 tight spaced. Pre heat at 60 then back to 40w, with a temp setting starting at 480 - 520 depending on my mood. The other two profiles have the pre heat set the same as the normal vape time so instead of 40w it would be preheat 30 and wattage set at 30. and the same on the other. I am locking ohms in every time. And the board asks me if it is a new coil every time. Once up and running it does take a few minutes for things to calm down a little vaping for a few minutes. And once it does it is very rock solid and I know exactly what to expect. If I need more flavor and vapor I just turn the temp up 10 degrees each time till I get what I am after. I think if you take the 32 gauge and make a tight twisted wire from it you can get to where you want to be. Keep it normal no parallel build at least for right now. Space the first builds so you can get a good feel of whats working right and build from there.