Rob_H

Brings your ohms up I think that at .20 your below the Low TCR of the wire. Ideally if you could run a nice chunky clapton at .60 or so you would be golden, but at least try and come up to around .40 or .50. SS does not behave like ni200 does and the board cannot deal with the wire at that low of a range. I am not a SS expert but someone really smart told me this one day and its worked for me flawlessly. And I use UD 316L 28g

Mine is landing there tomorrow hopefully the turn around is not too bad.

What happened to yours? One of mine died it was the Hana. Board just went dead would not power up. I checked all the connections and verified that it was getting power, changed the lipo out, was getting power on both sides of the fuse but still nothing. They did make the return process pretty simple. Sent a RMA form and said it would be repaired or replaced which makes me feel ok about it all. I am just glad I had another on hand to play with or I may have been a little pissed. I chose to pull the board out of my Hana myself just to save time they would have done it for me but that takes some of the fun outa it.

I emailed them here hanamodz1@gmail.com in the subject line of the email I put "V4 broken part" explained to them what was wrong and included a picture so they could see what was wrong. If you try that and cannot get a answer from them. I have two extra of those parts, if yours broke where mine did I would send you one of mine. You can install the part pretty easily as it has screws that hold the whole latch together. I think maybe they are just not answering on Facebook anymore. edit: I have three of those parts here they sent me. That part of the latch is plastic and if you over tighten the screws they split.

Wow that is bad ass!

I never have heard about building .50 and up. But that makes really good sense now and it is where I am getting my best results. I have been vaping my Squape like crazy with a .63 ohm build and its just great.

I use UD 28g 316L and it has performed great with the Dna200. I will say that the wire has been sitting for a year as I bought it to use on a IPV D2 and I did not care for the results at all. The flavor was really muted and I went back to kanthal and power mode. For some reason with the Dna's the vape I get is just as good as kanthal. I can only guess its the way that the board handles the wire in TC differently than the Yihi does. I think I got the wire from Fasttech but I am sure its available in the US now. Its the stuff that is on the lime green spool.

I agree, the evov 1amp chargers work well and you need the charger for escribe I did not see that at first. Looking at the specs it will be a really nice board and 60w is all I need most of the time. I love my Dna200's but having a tiny device sometimes is more important.

Yes would fit just fine. And you could use your existing charger.

I have a Hana V4D that would be a perfect candidate for a 60w board

I lock my ohm's I seem to get a more consistent vape that way and can run at higher temps. It does work ok with it unlocked but I can feel the change in power allot. I guess maybe I should give it a another chance and see how it is. Ive never heard that about the Dna200 and just thought it was just like the Dna40 needing to be locked all the time.

What does the temperature dominant feature do? I have seen it but have left it unchecked. I did notice if I change my Hana back to factory it has them checked.

I just dealt with them on a issue on a Dna40. Latch on the battery door cracked and they shipped one out right away. From the first email to when I had a tracking number was 3 days I think and the part will be here tomorrow. In the subject line of a email be direct about the problem and they should read it and get back with you. I have noticed if I ever ask about stock on devices or anything general they do not answer. If I say its a broken part they are pretty prompt in reply.

I have almost 100% gone back to single coil builds even with kanthal. Its so much easier and with the power we have available these days I feel no need to build dual coils anymore. 5 years ago dual coils were necessary to acheive the performance we were after. Vape gear was low powered, low tech and hard to use. Its pretty nice to build a large diameter single coil and be able to control every aspect about it. Post back your findings maybe you will find something that I have not. I have noticed ive been using a wide range of temps with my drippers. Depending upon my mood anywhere from 450 to 500. Its pretty easy to change the way the Dna lets you change it from the main screen.

Yah I am aware of it. I have bought 3 mods from them in the last 2 months knowing this. For a US modder they have the best enclosures on the market IMO. I also can work on my own gear and build mods from time to time so a warranty was never part of the equation more of getting what I wanted before they close. I did just deal with them in the last two days about a door latch on my V4 Dna40. A small crack appeared so I msg them about it. The mod is about a year old and far out of warranty but they put two latches in the mail for me today free of charge. Its a shame that China and the FDA are forcing them out of business. They are the OG of box mods and always will be.

I know its not always easy to be aggressive in these kinds of situations but I would push them to replace it or refund your money since it is was within their warranty period. 2 weeks is far too long for an answer IMO.

I had bought the Turnigy nano tech 1300mah and it was about a mm to thick with the outer wrapper taken off even. I used the plastic safety wrap from the Turnigy for my HG2's as I did not have any shrink wrap large enough for two cells then tapped that on. I am really happy with the battery life I am getting from the LG's. I get a full day out of it if I keep it under 50w.

I have used mostly Varitube 510's and have never had any issues. Their newest model is extremely easy to set up and can be soldered in place without disassemble. Under normal soldering heat there is no damage to the insulator which makes it all fast and easy to do. http://www.varitube.com/VT-510-V2-Connector--Self-adjusting-Center-Pin_p_364.html

I am having a great experience with 316L since I got my first Dna200. I tried it before with other devices and just hated it. Here are the set ups I am using right now. Dripper 28g 316L single coil, twisted, 3mm, 6 wraps spaced @ .58ohms Pre heat set at 60w Power set at 40w Temp set at 480 degrees. Using the stock curve that was available on Escribe for SS Tank 28g 316L dual coil, single strand, 2.5mm, 5 wraps spaced @ .31ohms Pre heat set at 50w Power set at 30w Temp set at 420 degrees Using the stock curve that was on the board. The Dna200 is the best TC vaping I have ever had and I actually use it. I do have 4 Dna40's and I just love em and will never part with them but they stay in power mode all the time. If there is anything I missed let me know and ill do my best to answer. Here is a pic of what I am using in a dripper. 28g 316L, twisted, spaced, 5 wrap @ .58 ohms with above settings.

Thanks for the pics. I had trouble with my choice of lipo's for my 1550P. It was too thick and the door would not close all the way and wanting to get it up and running I made a pack with two LG HG2's and soldered them direct to the board for usb only charging. I had to desolder the JST plug and re-wire it to charge two cells. What battery is that your using in your 1550P?

How is the Silo's width compared to the 1550P? I see its a little taller and probably has a little more depth.

Thats pretty cool

I have a Hana V200 thats a few months old. I had problems connecting to the device the first two times and now am unable too. All I get is unable to read eeprom. I have another board here that I can connect to with no problems. The Hana board works in PWR mode and in Ni200 mode just fine. I was unsuccessful in uploading a SS and TI profile. It did take some custom profiles but will not work with SS in TC. It shows "OFF" when trying to fire SS in TC mode and fires it in normal power mode as far as I can tell. Was wondering if its ok for me to remove the board myself and send it in to get repaired or replaced. I do not really want to send it too Hana if I can avoid that.

Looks great......I had a 1300mah lipo for mine but it was too thick. I went with two HG2's and its working pretty good. The Dna200 is a seriously nice board and the options is has are fantastic.

So I got two Dna200's this week. The blue one is a Modcrate 1550P+V2 kit that I built, set up as a 133w with two LG HG2's soldered in series and direct to the board for USB only charging. Red one is a Hana V200 which I have wanted since day 1 they released em and just was able to do it.