BillW50

For the Wismec 510, I use those KidneyPuncher Mod Guards. They are 0.4mm thick. So it is like making your 510 atty shorter by 0.4mm. I pretty much use them on everything nowadays. Although you can make your own too.

Yes well that stuff gets a bit more complicated. But at least you saved everything before making changes and then after making changes.

Yes sure. When you connect up your DNA200 with EScribe already running, the default is to connect and download settings from your DNA200. But the first button under the menu bar does the same thing. Once EScribe has everything from the DNA200, just click File on the menu bar and do a save as. Now do whatever you want to your DNA200 in Escribe. And when done, click on the button that says "Upload Settings to Device". You might want to do that Save As thing again, but name it differently.

Just to add what VapingBad had stated. If you use EScribe, you can capture the screen at anytime with the Capture button under Themes. Also the DNA 200 Datasheet tells you how to replace the screen.

I tend to be just the opposite. Oh sure there are things that I only buy one of. Like my Heatvape Kayfun v3.1 which I never got to vape on, since I can't even get a 28g coil to mount in the thing. But Subtanks with the RBA Mini Plus I just have a blast with. So I have eight Subtanks. Sure they are a year old now, but I still use them everyday. The nice thing about having more of one thing is plenty of spare parts. If you only have one of everything, you are pretty much screwed when the time comes. I also have two Crowns and three Crown RBAs. I don't regret those purchases either. Just load them up with my two flavor juices and I am good. I also have two Mad Hatters v2 (I love those flip tops, all RDAs should be made this way). Plus a Boreas and an Aromamizer Supreme RTAs. I won't mention the older crap that I don't use anymore.

I believe some computers just worry about the total current draw. Like most of my USB ports are more than happy to supply more than 500ma. I have one TV tuner that draws 900ma. And it works with most of my machines without the extra second USB plug.

I use Subtanks and Crown RBAs all of the time. But I generally build with nickel. I used to use SS, but I got an awful smell and taste from SS, so I quit using it.

I don't think that is how it works, kj. The DNA200 Datasheet is a good read about the operation of the DNA200. And on page four, it describes the 25% change in resistance. And that only comes into play if you remove an atomizer and then attach another one. On page six, under Resistance Lock. It describes what happens when the resistance changes while using the same atomizer.

Hahaha... ok about 0.65 ohms. In power mode, I wouldn't worry about the resistance unless it is jumping around a lot.

If you lock in your ohms, it assumes this is the resistance at 70°F. When you leave it unlocked, it tries to figure everything out by the room temperature, coil temperature, etc. At least that is the way it seems to work for me. 65 ohms?

Oh I gotcha.

You had a DNA200 burn out last week?

115°F isn't hot for a 200 watt regulated board. I see nothing to worry about. Anyway the board will wait until the temperature hits 212°F before it shuts down and displays the Too Hot error. I believe that is the temp that Phil Busardo said anyway.

Well it bugged me that there are no pictures of the inside of a HCigar VT133. The screw heads look like hex heads and a 1.5mm hex fits loosely. And 2mm hex doesn't fit at all. But I got a Torx T7 to fit nice and tight to remove the screws. The two outer screws are really short and screws into plastic. The two screws closest to the DNA200 mod are really long and they do screw in the alloy case. I was hoping it would be cleaner inside than it is. But it isn't really bad actually. That stuff on the plastic I think is super glue. On the right side you can see another board. I believe that is the reverse polarity battery protection. And the display ribbon isn't being flexed by the fire button.

^^^ There is no like button, but 10 likes to you Rice.

No it is probably soldered well enough and will probably last ok. It is just when you acquired a high skill level like soldering or something. And if my soldering job looked like that, I just couldn't leave it like that and would have to redo it and do a better job.

Wow! That could go either way. Meaning that could be a good thing or a bad thing. I only have three DNA200 and none of them make any sound. Although electronically, capacitors, coils, and transformers can make sounds. But like a ticking sound... yeah I can't think of anything except some insulating material breaking down. But I can't think of anything on the board higher than 12.6v anyway. And that would be highly unusual.

Oh!

Oh yeah the ticking noise... since you have it apart, where does it sound like it is coming from? Listening through a straw might zero in where it is coming from.

Yeah sure it is possible. By USB, you could send script commands like the following to poll data and to set things. Here are some examples. Fire: F=#S (1-20) Set Power Setting: P=#W Set Temperature Setting: T=#C or T=#F or T=OFF Set Profile: M=# (1 to 8) Get Power: P=GET Get Power Setting: P=GET SP Get Temperature: T=GET Get Temperature Setting: T=GET SP Get Voltage: V=GET Get Current: I=GET Get Profile: M=GET Get Battery: B=GET Get Battery Cell: B=GET CELL # (1 to 3) Get Battery Capacity: C=GET Get Resistance: R=GET

Yes some DNA200 builds use plugs and some directly solder to the board (I don't like that soldering job, but I have soldered for decades so maybe I am just picky). That battery just looks like they just wrapped electrical tape around it. And you should have no problems unwrapping it. Although it will be sticky no doubt. Tape for extra protection I get, but did they do it to hide that they used a really cheesy battery? I guess I never saw a DNA200 board from the side. That sure looks strange to me. Is that what they look like?

The other thing I can think of without EScribe is to remove the battery for a few minutes. But depending on the mod, that could be a very difficult thing. Taking an educational guess, rebooting by removing the battery is similar to a hard reboot.

That "ELPSCGODWTVO" looks like the DNA200's serial number to me. So that sounds promising that something is still alive on the DNA200 board.

Yes I have seen this too, but not on any DNA200 yet, just others. Your TCR should be good there, but the correct TCR maybe something different when you move away from simple standard coils. I would peek in steam-engine and configure it to your coil specs and see what it says about the TCR value.

Oh yeah, have you tried TC without the ohms lock? And also tried it with the ohms locked? Depending on conditions, one may work better than the other.