AMDtrucking

I tried, I doesn't lock up, but it doesn't fire either. I suspected the switch itself too, but when I bypass the switch, by shorting its legs with a pair of tweezers, the same thing happens - board goes into lock up mode.

Lately, one of my DNA250C, instead of firing, goes into a lock up mode. I would unlock it, press the fire button and it locks up again. Any ideas?

joevapes3@, right. That Chinese connector, in the link above, I advice strongly against. It's more convenient, because it is threaded M10 and it fits perfectly, but it leaks. At least mine does. As far as the length of MM510, that I used, it was perfect. Only diameter of it is 12mm and I had to ream the hole wider, as well as the place where the nut rests, because M12 nut is bigger. How do I make those "Elbow Adapters"? The old faction way, using my lathe and mill. 😀 It consists of two parts, press fit, one into the other. Turned in four jaw chuck. On this one, I went fancy and milled a wire soldering tab. It doesn't look like much, but believe me, it is a lot of work. Made out of 304 Stainless Steel. This one here, it looks like both pieces are welded together. They are not. They are still press fit. But I thought it would look better if I soldered them together to make them smoother looking.

joevapes3@, cool mod, I can see right through it. 1) For the connector: I use MM510, I just don't remember which version though. I think THIS ONE. That Chinese connector, that I used first, started to leak in a couple of weeks. 2) Displays are identical, the one DNA250C and SXK chip. I swapped them out several times, they work. Here is my photo of SXK chip and DNA250C display working together.

Lost Vape bottles are 7.0 ml.

These contacts are very important. For example: SXK Boxer clone, uses similar contacts, but they are made out of nickel plated carbon steel. As the result, every once in a while, the mod refuses to power up. I got tired of it and replaced them with gold plated beryllium copper contacts, that I pulled out of KeyStone 1048 model They are much better.

Certainly. More then one. But I only replaced leaky 510 connector with MM510 and defective boards. REBEL is the easiest mod to work on. Lost Vape Drone BF, for example, is whole lot more complicated.

Another dual battery DNA250C squonker from China, called VapeCige VTX200. This one started leaking like a sieve after one week. Because they used very primitive 510 connector. In this one, I had to use an Italian silver plated connector ModDog, I just had to machine it to fit and drill two holes. I also made a stainless steel offset elbow.

joevapes3@gmail.com, Good job! I noticed you are using THIS Chinese connector? I hate to be the one to bring you the bad new. I used this connector in my SXK Boxer clone (with DNA250C) too. It lasted for about a month and started leaking. I replaced O-Rings and bought me yet a couple of weeks, before it started leaking again. It turns out that this connector is the royal piece of you know what. I ended up replacing it with my trusty English MM510 connector. No more leaks. Also, the battery contacts, of SXK Boxer, are made out of nickel plated carbon steel and loose contact with batteries every once in a while. I cleaned them, brushed them, bent them out and still, every once in a wile, the unit refused to power up. I got tired of it and replaced them with gold plated beryllium copper contacts, that I pulled from KeyStone battery holder. So far - so good. I suggest you do the same.

I made it out of Lost Vape 30 ml Silicon Refill Bottle

I took your advice, in the other thread, installed SP38. I haven't seen "Error Press UP" ever since. Thank you very much for your help!

This one ( in the picture above) is the original Ginger Vaper Boxer. You could tell by how matte the finish looks, because it is 3-D printed. I just made and installed a stainless steel offset elbow adapter, just like the one in SXK Boxer clone, only not chromed brass, like they used. It is much better that way, no need to bend the hose (tube). I have an SXK Boxer clone too, that I replaced the board with DNA250C, it's working fine. And Vape Cige VTX250C, that was leaking like a sieve. This time, I replaced the leaky connector with Italian ModDog silver plated connector, that I machined and drilled to fit, also made an offset elbow as well. What can I say? I like my offset elbows. 😀

Still SP35. I will load SP38 and report back. I spoke too soon. There was a link to SP38 in this thread, but the owner removed the file. Where do I get SP38? Never mind, it's in SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT_ServicePack

One more observation: This error occurs quickly when the board cools down. It took me 5 minutes, to replicate this error, just by placing my mod in refrigerator.

I don't know if it matters, but three of my other DNA250C boards, have Version 1.1 SP35 INT. Only this one, with the "Error Press UP" problem, had Version 1.1 SP35 US, loaded in it. I changed the Service Pack, on it, to the international version, hoping it might help. I know at least one more person with the same problem on his DNA250C. He is in Russia. If we could get to the bottom of this, I will try to help him too. I speak Russian. P. S: When I was finishing reloading international Service Pack 35, the "Error Press UP" popped up on the screen again. I guess, it didn't help.

Here it is... VTX200.ecig

Sorry to barge in on your conversation, but I too started getting ERROR PRESS UP. It happens almost every day after DNA250C has been sleeping for a while, I press FIRE button and see this error message. It doesn't bother me too much, because it resumes working properly, just as soon as I press the UP button. Mod: Vape Cige VTX200W, brand-new. I just loaded the latest service pack.

I don't really make anything for sale. But I suppose, if you make it worth my while... Just keep in mind, in order to be able to install my "Offset Elbow Adapter", you will need to cut a piece of stainless still tube, from the end of your connector and cut threads M3.0 -0.5mm. For my friend, I also made a new "Back Nut", out of Stainless Steel, because the Delrin one, was too weak.

That is correct. We use clutch, only in first gear, to start rolling from a dead halt. Once the rig is in motion, we shift up or down, without a clutch just by synchronizing the vehicle's road speed with proper RPM of the engine. All transmissions alike 18-speed or 10-speed and everything in between. In fact, using the clutch, will not help you shift, if RPM of the engine is incorrect for the road speed of the vehicle, the clutch will make it worse. In every gear, you step on accelerator, then let go and pull the shifter out of the previous gear, into neutral, and right into the next gear. If the timing is correct, it will go in, like a hot knife in butter. To shift down, you just need to give it a little gas, in neutral and then into a lower gear. A clutch can be useful, only to pull the lever out of the gear, if were not fast enough to pull it out when you let go of the gas pedal. I'm a car-hauler, I transport cars on my truck and get to drive a lot of different cars, every stick-shift car, that I get to drive, from Volkswagen to Lamborghini, I drive the same way. It's like riding a bicycle, once you learn, you never forget. That said, I have to admit that I am a Hypocrite, because my current truck has an automatic transmission. Who needs shifting with all these electronics gadgets nowadays? On the back, in my sleeper, I also have 32" LCD TV, Laser Printer and Scanner. I use Sprint for my Internet connection 50 Gigabytes of data per month. 😉 Back on Topic: I drove 620 miles yesterday, vaping only on my "Trucker squonk". It was a such a joy, not worrying about running out of liquid and/or batteries, then I forgot about that pasky little wire. In fact, those 14 gauge silicon super flexible wires are very good. I used about 15 ml. (50%) of liquid in my squonk in 14 hours yesterday, refilled in the morning and rolling again...

I'm thinking of anodizing it in the future, but I'm not selling it. I made it for myself. Well, having a wire is not this mod's the most convenient feature. But having an unlimited power source and 30ml squonk bottle, defiantly makes it bearable.

Yes they are, but only one of them, is mine. It's the blue one. I've had it from the day one of release and in had several modifications to it. Including an RTV Silicon sealing of the board, at one time. What looks to you as a PVC glue, is actually what's left of that silicon. But my leaking issues have gone away, since I installed an offset elbow adapter and I don't use silicon anymore. It's a pain in the A to remove. 😀 What I do now is I spray it with a product out of Germany, it's called Plastik-70, it specifically formulated to protect PCB from moisture.

I also made a Stainless Steel back nut and replaced original delrin nut.

It's a little off topic, but I was getting tired of the Boxer's leaking issue due to the position of the bottle offset. I made my own Elbow Adopters and converted several mods of my friends. They are now dry as Sahara.

LOL. This is also a solution. I just finishes sanding my The Trucker. I don't want to polish it, I wanted to to have a "Brushed finish" so I used P1500 sand paper.

Thank you, but I doubt that a lathe and BridgePort mill, can be installed in the cab of a truck. I use it in my truck, but I made it, in my garage. Sometimes at home 🙂