AMDtrucking
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Everything posted by AMDtrucking
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Yes, I take my vaping hobby very seriously. Off Topic: This is a little (40lb) machine I made to wrap my coils. Head-stock is fully synchronized with tail-stock by timing belts. When several round or flat wires, ere secured in their Dremel chucks, I turn that adjustment long screw (greenish looking) and stretch my wires so they are as straight as an arrow, the machine is telescopic.
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Nonsense. Hijack it all you want. I wish that moderators would rename it to something more appropriate. Like DNA250C issues or Boxer BF DNA250 problems.
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The way you described is a good way, but a bit complicated, requiring pretty expensive precision milliohmmeter, which by the way, will change it's reading depending on how firmly you press the test probes. It is almost impossible to get consistent reading in such small resistances, like 5 mΩ, or even 15mΩ in your case. I use a different method of determining mod's internal resistance. I made a copper plug-screw M7.0 - 0.5mm (510 thread). I simply screw it in all the way and threfore short my connector and measure internal resistance using Escribe Atomizer Analyzer. Works every time. Granted, my method does not measure internal resistance of the atomizer. But who's to say that I couldn't short the posts of my atomizer as well?
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@bladedoza, To tell you the truth, I didn't pressure test this connector, but I too, suspected it of leaking. My Boxer has arrived at Evolv facility in Ohio, let's see what they say.
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Therefore that's normal behavior, when batteries are not installed. I's good to know. Thanks. Do you think, you could upload of download settings without batteries? I can't. Heck, I cannot upload or download anything with batteries either. It's on it's way to Hudson Ohio.
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"help about the issue you caused" - I resent that. I'm accustomed to fixing things by trade, instead of braking them. If your passed experience was different then mine, don't judge others based on you own experience. Again, if you would pay a little attention, you would notice that I am the one who started this thread. I named it, by the way I felt fit at the time, based on the problem I've encountered at the time. I'm sure you can predict what will happen in the future, but I can't. My mod developed and additional problem and instead of creating an additional thread, I just continued my firs one.
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Your assumption is wrong. You don't know me and those that do, know that I know what I'm doing. That's all I have to say about this without calling names. And if you would pay a little attention, you would notice, that the board is outside of the mod and nothing is preventing those buttons from releasing themselves, assuming that I did spill some liquid inside (using factory unauthorized bottle), which I didn't.
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Thanks, I figured that out myself. I'm sure Evolv will fix it, you could never go wrong with Evolv.
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What are you saying? Shouldn't I have posted about my problem publicly and instead, sent it to Evolv for repair quietly? I don't understand your point.
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You know, how they say: "A good problem will eventually show itself". Well it did. It started by not firing. The fire button acted as the select button. Then I noticed that every button acts as the select button. Any button I press, I could only select/deselect and nothing else. When I pulled and reinstalled batteries, I couldn't get pass first screen. Then I removed the betters, plugged in USB cord, my PC recognized the board, and I tried to load the trusty old Evolv Theme, but it failed to load, it timed out. Now I only have "Clock Error" on the screen, twice. I definitely need an RMA from Evolv. And NO I never used debug section before, only have heard bout it. Something abut clicking on Evolv logo 10 times... But I don't think I could do that, because my Escribe fails to read from EEPROM and doesn't load. Update: I'm in debug mode, I selected button and see, that when I press Fire button - number 9 is displayed, Down button - number 10, Up button - number 12 and Select button doesn't change any thing because (I assume) it suppose to show number 8, but it is already on number 8. OK my buttons work. What next? Even though, Escribe fails to load fully, it doesn't stop me from entering the screen. And when I try to Upload Settings to Device, I get EEPROM error again.
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No fire and no screen.
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Has anyone experienced what I'm experiencing lately? When my Boxer is asleep and I pick it up, press the fire button and the screen doesn't even light up. I keep pressing the buttons and, after about 10 - 15 seconds, the board wakes up. It started happening recently and more often every time. It feels like DNA250C takes its time to boot up, without any BIOS messages on the screen. I know, it is not the micro-switch problem (under the Fire button) because, after it comes on, it never misfires, always react on the button press. The time, between the button press and display light up, keeps increasing. It use to be 2 - 3 seconds, now it could wait up to 30 seconds or more. Evolv, is it a board problem?
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I myself, prefer 510 refill bottles and use them for a long time. But, as an alternative, you might want to look into purchasing Arctic Dolphin Bottles instead. It fits perfectly, in this mod and has the same capacity. It works this way: You turn the leaver, on the bottle, which opens up two holes. One larger and one smaller. You insert your thin nose juice bottle into the larger hole and the air escapes, from the smaller hole. Don't forget to close the refill valve, after done. Some people love them, some hate them.
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No problems. That's what we are here for.
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Great, they must have addressed the problem.
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Just like you guys did it?
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"replay" rumor mill's already turning
AMDtrucking replied to Podunk Steam's topic in General Discussion
Or why spend money on the ones they have already sold, there is no profit in that. Man, I hope I'm wrong. Mean while, I'm playing with Replay (not upon intended) for about a week now. There was a problem with negative connection to 510 connector, on my Boxer BF DNA250C, I even started a thread HERE, but it is all corrected now. I'm loving it! It is so easy to use and it works seamlessly so far. -
What is with Fat Daddy, is he even around? Every single BF V-5 connector I have, leaks like sieve.
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I had a little free time today and made my own connector fitting tool of solid 304 stainless steel. The 5mm deep hole in the middle of the threaded rod, serves a purpose, the threaded rod screws all the way in, but it doesn't push spring loaded positive pin, the pin fits inside the hole. The problem is, that this tool is not universal, it is only good for this Boxer connector, but it works very well on it.
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Wow 0.3Ω? That's too much. Mine was reading 0.05 extra Ohms and Replay worked sporadically, I can only imagine, what it does to you. I haven't decided what exactly I'm going to do with that bottle adapter yet. Maybe I will use Varitube connector for it's long tube and bend into shape, I don't know yet, but the way that it is now is a goof. I understand why they did it, but I would rather have this connector offset to one side, then to have route the bottle tube at such angle and limit the size of the bottle that can be used. I have to refill four times a day. I don't particularly like these type of connectors. These type of construction, was used in Fat Daddy BF connectors that sucked. I'm sure they are better and hopefully, don't leak, like Fat Daddy did and they are black nickel plated and all that. But that doesn't doesn't cancel the fact, that having brass cylinder over the tube (with a set screw) , is not my favorite connection and it takes too much room. My favorite connectors, are Mod Dog from Italy, they are silver plated. But they are not spring loaded and are better for mechanical squonks. My second favorites are Mod Maker from England (MM510), but they are Ø12mm and will not fit. I have them all in multiple quantities, including Varitube. Will see.
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That's unfortunate. Mine is perfect. 60 Ml of liquid in Replay mode, went though it. Now I'm thinking, how to modify the tube of 510 connector, kind of like a kitchen faucet "gooseneck" , that way the end of the tube will be directly above the bottle, not offset, like it is now. That way, I could use Sunbox Cappy V4 silicon 8.5ml taller bottles. Here is a little hint for you guys, where to get Sanyo NCR20700A for less then $7.00 each. Enjoy!
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By the word Socket, I meant what you are referring to as a channel. The hexagonal shaped cavity, near the top of the body, where the locknut rests, like in a socket wrench. Sorry for misunderstanding. Here is the image, where you can see clearly, a layer of plastic (partially removed by X-Acto knife)? I then removed it all and sanded both sides of that contact washer as well as the lock nut itself. Also, I ran my M10-1.0mm tap through the threads of the nut, to remove remainder of the sealant you have used.. You paid $1000.00 for that connector tool, that I see on your picture? How many would you like me to make for you, at the fraction of that cost? I have a small garage shop with Lathe , Mill, TIG Welder e.t.c. Let's trade: One Boxer for one tool?
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@Ginger I truly appreciate your response and as I stated before, I understand the tremendous pressure, you were under, trying to ship all those pre-orders out and I don't blame you. However, I disagree with your statement: "Wasn't necessary to go through all the steps you did, but when you did tighten it back together it did correct the issue." Because, being an electronic technician by trade, that was the first thing that I did and it didn't help. I used a very large Craftsman screw driver. Also, you didn't address the drayed glue, that I've removed with my threading die, what was it? Further more, the actual issue was in some small plastic shavings between brass contact washer and the nut. How did they get there? During the assembly, the nut was not placed in its plastic socket of the case all the way in and was pulled in by the connector, when it was being screwed in. When the nut was traveling, it shaved some plastic from the walls of its socket and some of the shavings, ended up squashed between the nut and the brass contact washer, creating conductivity issue. I actually took X-Acto knife and cut off some small amounts of plastic layers from the washer and the nut that have already bonded to it. I know it wasn't the glue used on the threads, because the dry glue was bridle and what I've removed from the washer, was flexible. Take under consideration, that you need to insert the nut in its socket, all the way in, hold it there until the connector is fully threaded and tight. Do not allow the nut to travel, rubbing and shaving the walls of its socket. By the way, did I understand you correctly, that 510 connector in made out of stainless steel and then black nickel plated, not painted? That's great!
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Now that you mentioned it, $300.00 (with shipping) Rebel BF DNA250, has a door that's moving up and down when it wants to, it has 510 connector that leaks (I replaced mine with MM510) and the dye color fades out very quickly. When my DNA250 board went south, I didn't think twice, but sent it to Evolve. A week later, I had a new board. Even though, that Rebel was still under the manufacturer warranty, I didn't send it to Rebel.
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What 's the alternative? Rebel Mods from England? Believe me, it's worse. I'm talking from personal experience. On one thing we all could agree on: Evolv is here to back their product all the way! Over the years, I had several DNA powered mods fail on me. Evolv took those board in and replaced them with no haste.
