AMDtrucking

Wait a minute, that other one is a NON squonker, then I don't want it. You made me feel a whole lot better.

Because if you put a nice grub screw, some customers may puncture the hole in the tube with it.

jdiaz923, bladedoza, let's be fair to Ginger Vaper. It is a very good device. Right now, it is an only device, with DNA250C, available on the market. Now that it is working properly, I like it very much. But I can understand, they were under tremendous pressure, trying to get those pre-orders out. I'm sure their other boxes, will be assembled a little better. Me. I'm thinking about getting another one with 21700 batteries. A little pricey though. off topic: I'm no stranger to replacing 510 connectors on $300.00 Rebel Mods from England and cheap Chinese mods, making them Squonks. All DNA250, even RX200 is now a BF DNA250.

I think that Ginger Vaper Boxer Theme is safe. I'm going to get nicotine overdose from all that tasting, but I loaded Boxer profile back and it seams to be working. I guess my negative conductivity was really a problem. Again: Thank you Nick! Noticed how my NiFe30 coil resistance when from 0.1Ω to 0.05Ω? That is the same coil as before and it's resistance doubles when warm. That's why I love to use NiFe, for it's TCR 520.

IMHO, As Nick suggested, me running a threading die to clean the connector, sanding both sides of the contact washer (still don't know how to call it properly) sanding the nut itself, removing plastic shavings and tightening them firmly, might have solved the conductivity problem. Let me load Ginger Vepers profile again and see. As of right now, REPLAY is working fine, even when engaged from my NiFe30 TC profile. One more thing, Ginger Vaper, couldn't you make the opening (for display) a little bit larger? Some of the important information is off the screen.

It is proved/disproved very easily, let me enjoy my REPLAY for a while, and then I could load Ginger Vaper profile back and see if it works. I will let you know.

Thank you Nick and thank you retird! I did two things: 1. I improved negative connection to the 510 Connector, by removing all the glue and some of the paint with M10 pitch 1.0mm Treading Die. 2. I loaded Evolv profile instead of Ginger Vaper one. So far, REPLAY is working fine for 15 minutes... And, mr. Ginger, I guess I voided my manufacturer warranty? (Not that I care, really) And should I tell Ginger Vaper, that their profile sucks or you will! Oh yen another thing I've noticed, while working with connector conductivity improvement. The brass nut, when it was inserted by screwing down connector and pulling the nut in it's place, it shaved some of the plastic and plastic shavings ended up between the nut and the contact washer (I still don't know what is it called). Those plastic shavings, could have prevented a good electrical contact to the negative side of the connector. Of course, on my unit, I removed all that. But for future reference, when assembling, you might want to place the nut first, in it's place, and then screw the connector into the nut instead of pulling the nut in, while screwing the connector and shaving the plastic. It is merely a suggestion.

Thanks, I will. Just as soon as I remove all that glue and wire-brush the threads of the connector. Too bad, that Mod Maker MM510 is Ø12mm threaded, otherwise I would use it instead.

If that's the case, then I'm fully capable of taking care of it my self. But I don't see where it could be improved. There is a heavy gauge black wire, soldered directly to the board on one end and to the other end is soldered to, (I forgot how to call that) A brass washer with one tab, that you solder the wire to and put this washer around the threaded part of 510 connector, under the nut. What's there to improve? The only thing I see and I don't like (bedsides their soldering job) is the threads are painted black and could interfere with conductivity, but I guess that Ginger Vaper knows what they are doing for $250.00 mod. Investigating farther, I removed the connector. Like I said, I don't see a problem with wiring, but I do see that connector's threads are painted black and there is evidence of some kind of Lock-tight being used, which frankly, looks to me, like dried out Crazy Glue, which very well could prevent good connection.

Of course, here it is: I didn't change anything in SS 316 profile, it's all factory default. I just added two new materials: NiFe30 and NiFe48 and two new profiles accordantly. Boxer DNA250C.zip

I am absolutely willing to send it to you for repair if you can fix it. I waited anxiously for it, bragger on all forums about this new Evolv Replay Mode, reposted links of Brandon's interviews with Daniel DJLSB and The Vaping Byker and it failed me. What a shame. I have just submitted support Ticket ID: B86-JDB-SH4T on evolvvapor.com

Here you go: On both SS and NiFe30, resistance rises, from cold Ohms to warm Ohms as it should. But REPLAY still doesn't work.

Please keep us posted, because I didn't even try before I loaded Service Pack 13. I also got mine on Monday.

UPDATE: I just tried SS Coil. Same problem: "Check Atomizer" and will not fire in Replay mode. It starts working again, just as soon as I turn the Replay mode off. Also, did I misspell the word AtomiZer or Ginger Vaper? I doubt that if I change the screen profile back to Evolv, my problem will go away. I'm sure that the screen profile, has nothing to do with functionality.

I have just acquired DNA250C. Ginger Vaper BF, although I have a lot of experience using previous DNA200, DNA250 and DNA75 exclusively in Temp Control mode. I never liked Stainless Steel because of it's low TCR (95 - 105), I always used NiFe30 (TCR-520), for my single coil buids and NiFe48 (TCR400), for dual coils. All builds are around 0.1 Ohm.I wrap dual/tripple Fused Claptons from 28 Gauge or 26 Gauge NiFe, with 42 Gauge Nichrome around them. This method served me well for a long time, BUT now I've got DNA250C. I only have been using it for a few days and already noticing some problems. In REPLAY mode, after several successful puffs, it wouldn't fire my coils and display: "Check Atomizer" message on the screen. I tried several different atomizers and coils, but the problem persists. If I disengage REPLAY, then it's working again, until several puffs later, if I engage REPLAY again. Also, while in REPLAY mode, I feel my Puffs are not constant. They are kind of "wavy" (intermittent) until they quit completely and the message "Check Atomizer" is on the screen. Like I said, as soon as I turn REPLAY off, everything goes back to normal again. If I go back to just an old trustee Temp. Control, it doesn't work exactly like the old one did, on DNA200, DNA250 and DNA75. I would load my NiFe30 and NiFe48 profiles from Steam Engine, set my temperature and go. I never limit my Wattage, ever. But in this DNA250C, I keep seeing the message: "Check Atomizer" or "Temperature Protected" before it even fires. And when I engage REPLAY mode from my Temp. Control profile, it becomes a nightmare. I normally don't use just the Wattage mode, but I tried using it here. Even in Wattage mode, I get "Temperature Protected" message on display instead of vapor sometimes. Could it be because DNA250C is not really capable utilizing NiFe and I should try SS? Or am I doing something wrong? I understand that very few people have much experience with DNA250C, I'm hoping that Evolv people are reading this and can help. Again, I own over 15 DNA200, DNA250 and DNA75 devices and would like to think, that I know what I am doing, when it comes to Temp. Control.

It is Boxer BF DNA250C

I've got this and I love it! I want it in my DNA75C too.

I also baught Lost Vape Therion DNA75C and pre-ordered Ginger Veper Boxer BF DNA250C. When are we going to see the firmware update with Replay mode?

ChunkyButt200 , Thank you very much and Marry Christmas!

According to Evolv's DNA250 datasheet, DNA250 output is limited to 9.3 Volts and 53 Amps. What are these limitations be, If I'm using it with two cell, 167 Watt configuration? Thank you.

Markyt123, I still am using my LiFePo4 batteries. Granted, DNA75 cannot use all of it's capacity because it's Hard Cutoff voltage is 2.5V. But above 2.5V (approximately 70% of battery capacity) it is using like no other battery could. Lower your Soft Cutoff voltage in Escribe and you won't be seeing Weak Battery very often. As I mentioned before, my first experience with A123, that I purchased on eBay, was not very pleasant. You guessed it.. Because it was FAKE.

I posted in a wrong spot, when I should have posted here. I think, you'll be interested to know, that I'm successfully using A123 LiFePo4 in my DNA75 and loving it There are some limitations, due to the fact that DNA75 only supports Li-Ion and LiPo type batteries: 1. Do not charge LiFePo4 batteries via USB, because it will try to charge it to 4.2V, which is NOT safe for LiFePo4. IMHO 2. Apply correct settings to your battery discharge profile, otherwise the battery indicator will be showing wrong values. You can use my CSV fine in the link below. 3. Even though, my LiFePo4 is working better then any Li-Ion batteries that I've tried (I tried many ) the Hard Cutoff limit, of the DNA75 board, is set to 2.5V and it doesn't allow the battery to be used to it's full potential. It will be nice to see LiFePo4 support implemented in the next revision of the DNA75 firmware. But that's up to EVOLV do decide. I think that LiFePo4 is the answer to all DNA75 power issues due to the lack of powerful enough 26650 Li-Ion batteries on the market. But that's my opinion. Link: /topic/65832-topic/?do=findComment&comment=891150 And the answer is NO. Here is the letter, I received from Evolv: Hi Michael, The DNA75's charging system works independently from the board controls unfortunately. On the DNA200/250 we use a charging IC controlled by the onboard processor. This allows us to program a charging profile for batteries like LiFePo4 into the 200 and 250. It is also the same reason we have feedback like charge current, cell balance, etc. On the DNA75 the charging system is independent and not microprocessor controlled, we can read things like charge status, but do not have complete granular control over the charging system like the DNA 250. This is also the same reason you don't see things like Charge Current on the DNA75 as well. Because the charging IC is a fixed max voltage we sadly cannot add LiFePo4 support. We can limit the cutoff though by simply not allowing the board to operate below a certain voltage, but not stop the charging IC from going over 3.6v, I hope this makes sense. This means we can support LiPo and Li-Ion batteries because we can limit how far they discharge, but not LiFePo4 because we cannot limit the charging cutoff. We made the choice to not have LiFePo4 support on the DNA75 for a number of reasons. Mainly because the demand for LiFePo4 support and capabilities was never large at all. In the time since the DNA200 was released this is maybe the second or third ticket we have received regarding LiFePo4 usage. Second, was that the DNA75 was meant to be positioned in the middle of Evolv's product offerings, and is priced much much lower than something like a 200. The charging was only one of a few areas where we saw the ability to reduce costs on the board in order to reach the target price, while retaining the functionality our customers wanted and were accustomed to. My apologies that the DNA75 did not meet your desired functionality in this case, and we will continue to keep LiFePo4 support in mind going forward. Thanks, Evolv, Inc

Actually you are right, and I did experience the Hard Cutoff before I saw any Soft Cutoff. That's why I changed 2.5V to 2.7V later today. But I did not see any abnormal activity of the board all day today even when there was no room to wiggle. The only thing that I do not know how to do, is how to limit USB charging to 3.6V? For now, I'm only charging LiFePo4 in my external charger. And by the way, real capacity of A123 LiFePo4, that I get, using SkyRC MC3000 and SkyRC D100, is around 2700 mAh.

This just in! I finally, got hold of A123 systems LiFePo4 26650 battery, that is NOT fake. I did some tests and, most importantly, vaped most of the day at 75 Watts. IMHO, that battery is our only salvation. It needed some adjustments though. I switched to "Lithium-Polymer" and set the lowest voltage to 2.5V, ran Battery Analyzer and saved the graph: As you can see, from the graph, the battery was charged to full 4.2V. But as soon at the first load was introduced, the battery's voltage dropped to it's normal 3.32V and continued to work flawlessly for pretty long time at 75 Watts. The usable capacity ended up being 7.967 W/h (2400mAh). None of my existing Li-Ion 26650 batteries was able to do that. VapPower 4200mAh = 158.9mAh (0.588 W/h), Sony US18650VTC5 = 619.5mAh (2.292 W/h), Sony US26650VT = 430mAh (1.591 W/h). "Weak Battery" message, is the thing of the past! Too bad, I only bought one of these batteries because I have two DNA75 devices. But I wasn't sure that LiFePo4 was going to do it for me. Especially, after my first A123 turned out to be FAKE, I bought it on eBay. I've already placed an order for few more HERE. If anyone is interested, I'm placing the content of my CSV battery profile. Just copy it into Notepad and save as .CSV file. Or use my, attached file, if you want. "Battery Charge (%)","Cell Voltage (V)" 0,3 1.12965977191925,3.04999995231628 2.78649425506592,3.08999991416931 3.86594724655151,3.09999990463257 7.05409812927246,3.16000008583069 13.5810213088989,3.20000004768372 31.5175094604492,3.25 95.1173629760742,3.3199999332428 96.7490921020508,3.33999991416931 98.3808212280273,3.53999996185303 100,4.19000005722046 I forgot to add: According to my measurements, the Internal Resistance of my A123 was 13 m? and I was able, easily, get 50A current from this battery. For that, I made special Voltmeter, that is capable of conducting such current. It is solid SS construction and the wire inside is 12 Gauge. Internals of the spring loaded 510 connector are from Fat Daddy connector. I also made me a hefty battery holder. For test and charge purposes with spring loaded terminal. I later, adjusted my discharge graph (manually). I only changed beginning voltage from 4.2V to 3.6V. Also, I changed my low voltage limit from 2.5V to 2.7V, otherwise "Weak Battery" message never shows, even when the mod can't vape anymore. But I was able to vape Billow V3 with two coils, made out of 26 Gauge NiFe48, with TC, at the actual power of 71W - 75W pretty much all day today. One Billow V3 and a half. All that, on a single battery charge. And I will only charge LiFePo4 battery in my SkyRC MC3000 to 3.6V because, USB will attempt to charge it to 4.2V and that's not good. "Battery Charge (%)","Cell Voltage (V)" 0,3 1.12895047664642,3.05000305175781 2.78634595870972,3.08999633789063 3.86725568771362,3.10000610351563 7.0559401512146,3.16000366210938 13.5804328918457,3.19999694824219 31.5175342559814,3.25 95.1170806884766,3.32000732421875 96.747444152832,3.33999633789063 98.3808288574219,3.42441868782043 99.9991836547852,3.59883713722229 A123_LiFePo4.zip

@Rcarter, I generally vape at TC mode, Nife30 and NiFe48. Therefore low resistance is no problem. My A123 LiFePo4, from eBay, turned out to be fake. I returned it back and ordered one from NKON.NL. It's going to be a while, before it arrives. Meanwhile, I try to use my DNA75 under 50 Watts (Kayfun V5, Rose V3, Marlin etc) and leave my dual coil tanks to six of my DNA200's. All-n-all, I think that DNA75 is a big disappointment due to the lack of good, powerful 26650 batteries, on the market. My Sony US18650VTC4, VTC5 and VTC6 are working better and longer, then VapPower 26650 4200 mAh, MNKE 26650 3500 mAh and Sony US26650VT 2600 mAh.