VapingBad

Nice one Conan

I mean that you will get all most all the mAh above 3.5 V and probably 98-99% above 3 V so the Wh should match the battery, I could be wrong but that is the impression I got, they are quite different from IMRs. But if you are running very high wattage they will get rejected eariler.

I thought that LiPos had very little charge left under 3.5 V, far less than 25%.

Mine are accurate if the mod has been standing and not connected to USB for a long time, but soon after starting to use it or even just attaching to atty analyser if starts to climb above room temp (I have put room temp as a display field). Even with very light use it is 8-10 F over.

You need to compare batteries by Watt Hours to compare the probable run time for 3S Wh = mAh * 11.1/1000, for 2S Wh = mAh * 7.4/1000. So a 1000 mAh 3S would have about the same runtime as a 1500 mAh 2S.

You can get 200 W in temp mode with big enough coils and mega airflow, but my lungs can only get it to stay at about 120 W with the temp set at 380 F, I was only doing it for a laugh and normally vape at 40 W.

I think it is the other way around the Evolv give you the wattage you set which needs no explanation. YiHi measure the res, set the voltage to give you the power you chose, but if the resistance changes that bargain is broken and you will not get the watts you set so if anything that needs explaining IMO. If you look at the end of pBusardos IPV2 review he demonstrats this.

If the resistance is changing it is impossible to have the exact same voltage, wattage and current. It is against ohms law. If you set it at 50 watts, the dna will output 50 watts. It doesn't matter that the resistance is rising the whole time. No it is Ohms law and Joule heating, to have constant power if the resistance is changing requires varying the voltage (for vaping coils). If you supply a constant voltage to a resistance that is changing the power will also change regardless of whatever value for resistance you recorded at the start.

As I said I don't think (don't know) if the res lock is appreciable if out of temp limiting, but I think you have brought you knowledge of other devices over to the DNAs. Leaving temp limiting out of the equation they are real time wattage regulated and if you expect it to behave like an SX350 and just pick a voltage when you press fire and keep pumping a fixed voltage regardless of what is happening you are going to be out. So with temp limiting off it will supply the wattage and if res goes up V goes down and visa versa.

If it has detected the coil is a suitable wire for temp limiting (raises 150 F in the first second) the temp will be displayed in the default fields, if not it will stop temp limiting and display the voltage. I don't know if, but doubt that res lock is applicable if it has dropped out of temp limiting mode and I don't know if this is your issue. IIRC to low wattage and big coils can cause the coils not to heat enough in the first second.

You can tell winter is coming to the northern hemisphere you guys can heat a room with your battery test rigs

In the UK StealthVape RadioSpares cheaper if you want a few

It was $23.87 USD yesterday when I bought one, today it's $45[/QUOTE] I notice the MAP code still works on the Mod but not the battery, maybe they will release a code for the battery like the they did for the mod after the big price increase. RMBBUST gets 5% off the battery.

I have not used it but would think click it and leave it, it has to get all the cells over 2 V so they can charge normally and this is normally done at low current. I may not be exactly 2 V, just from memory it could be 2.5 V for example, just so they are high enough for a normal charger.

I see that FT have listed the HotCig battery for £25 today.

I guess them replacing the battery depends on if they have an acceptable out of balance limit like computer screens have an acceptable dead pixel limit. The device is not giving an out of balance limit so I doubt it is a problem, but I would not like either. For max power you just need a battery that can comfortably supply 23 A continuous current and all the ones you mentioned are up to spec (for the sizes you are looking at <900 mAh 30C, >950 mAh 25C) .

The pre-built heads could cause that as the connection is held by the silicone insulator.

That does look much easier than digging up the tracks in the PCB, although I may have to wait until my DNA200 actually arrives to get an idea of whether it'll be feasible - still looks very small! I was planning to omit the "ID" pin - I didn't think it would be required but a second opinion would be appreciated.[/QUOTE] You have to remove the USB socket to get to where he put the arrows.

It could be the 510/atty, metal expands and contracts as it heat and cools and it could be causing a small change on resistance. Give the 510 a good clean both on the atty and mod and check the coil screws are snug.

The asking new coil is not usual have you changed the "ohm lock range" the default is 25% or it could be an inconsistent 510 or atty connection. The 2% battery is nothing to worry about, probably only one puff, the Wh should be set to 10, but you could try 9.8 to see if that cures it.

I think the 1st one is something like a csv file that is the wrong format or has a value (probably temperature if it is wire) that is too big, maybe using comers as decimal point. The 2nd could be anything. The 3rd is normal if you do a hard re-boot.

I don't know, but would think that error could be the battery going out of balance when it drains, have a look at the different cell voltages in Escribe when it is empty, if it is I would fully charge it via USB until all the cells are balanced, discharge by vaping again and if you get the error get the battery changed. If the size is the same the FullyMax battery Evolv sell would be a good one. I don't thing you need to change your settings back, you can just change the battery Wh if you want. It is normal for the watt hours to drop, this is like the fuel gauge.

He doesn't wants to remove the USB socket so cannot reach those arrows, I can only suggest following the tracks and tapping off them which are very fine.

You can use heat shunts on the wire to stop it drawing solder and becoming stiff and pull back rather than strip the insulation then stretch it out again when you are finished.

thanks for that, but i was intending to leave the existing one in place and add the second one as a firt fail fuse so the blade fuse will fail leaving the evolv fuse intact. (they are a nightmare to replace! i just wanted to know if the blade is likely to blow before the schurter one[/QUOTE] I doubt it and you don't normal get specs on auto fuses, but if you missed the link I posted /topic/67186-topic/?do=findComment&comment=904837