VapingBad

There is a thread where this type of set up was discussed from a few months ago. /topic/67683-topic/

They are in short supply at the moment after a fire at the factory that makes OLED screens and I have not seen any on sale for a couple of months, you can use a DNA40 large screen if you have a device to borrow one off.

IIRC it has "zip" charging which just means 2 A and not wireless charging, I don't have one but am 95% sure.

Never had that and not seen a significant number of posts here or anywhere else about it.

It is by design, I suggest to Brandon they default it to something higher and he was going to, but John thought that would generate even more support calls for the screen not going off while charging.

Why, it works great it is temp limited and unlikely to ever get to 200 W so you should think of it as "up to 200 W". In over a year with DNA40s and over 3 months with DNA200 the only issue I have ever had with prehest is arching using ss rope wicks which is easily fixed.

I don't think it is fair to call it "crazy preheat settings" they are brilliant for what they were designed to do.

Can't see the wire melting the plastic without melting it's own insulation as I read it is not silicone insulated and why at only at one point unless it was shorting on the body, I suppose it could have then been repaired during QC or it could be intentional. John has said the balance wires carry less than 40 mA so the gauge is fine.

Never had that issue and logically I don't see how it would exceed temp if everything was right, maybe you have hot spot issues, but I only use Ni200 as DNAs were designed for.

I don't think it is anything to do with pre-heat, just taking it from inside to very cold outside temps, res lock should solve it. Also you preheat settings are quite mild it is less than a DNA40 (punch, how near to your set temp).

Curiosity of @Robby the ground tag on the battery cradle you can see his original post here http://allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/59815/wismec-reuleaux-dna200-strip

Pre heat is an awesome feature, most important IMO is to max the punch rather than the watts (gets closer to the temp, smoother & more instant vape), though I have to turn the watts down with ss rope wicks or I can get archs (80-120 W), but always max it on cotton. YMMV

MY guess is a physical connection issue Jalcide with the mod construction, there is only so much the board can do. This week an Origenny V2 I have been vaping for about a week went up from 0.09 to 0.15 ohm and I checked and re-checked everything, after at least a day of this I gave the negative screw a tighten with an proper L shaped Allan key/hex wrench and bang back to 0.09 ohm. But I had tightened this screw with a FT Allen key screw driver as soon as the problem occured to the extent it rounded off the hex corners before and would have been very tight by most peoples standards. It was using Ni200 ribbon wire sleeper coils so maybe the ribbon need to be crushed more, but it was stable at 0.09 for about a week before.

It is not insecure, if you look at the way it is mounted to the board I have not seen any e-cig with a more secure USB socket they are normally just surface mount in the same orientation as the board, but these perpendicular ones have a much stronger mountain to the board. I have never seen a Micro USB socket mounted to anything but the circuit board, never to the case. TBH the cable not going in flush is a non issue IMO, the mod maker could have made the case a few mm thicker and everybody would have a bigger mod so the cable looked neat, but I think most people would rather have the mod kept compact.

It does, it uses the room temp derived from board temp + case thermals and refinement mode (tracking the resistance as the coil and the mode cool during idle). It is a evolution of what the DNA40 does with room temp an refinement mode, they do their best to get an accurate cold resistance regardless of the box they are fitted in. This is why Evolv have only said the mod and coils should be at the same temp when fitted and not at room temp like less sophisticated boards.

The issue with making it for the smallest diameter 510 and allowing customers to tap the thread is that the VT, FD and Evolv all require different depths for the 22 mm top section, 1 mm, 2 mm & 3.2 mm IIRC. And it is another tool to buy, I have the taps for VT and Evolv but a guy making one mod? You could do the deepest 3.2 and provide shims, but especially the FD is going to take up room for the battery, that may not be a problem, but they are longer than the VT which is longer than the Evolv. In an ideal world you would make the Evolv 510 as the design is open source and supply the cases with these fitted.

See /topic/66731-topic/ for history and they update it when there is something new and not at regular intervals.

I would keep the Evolv 510 cut-out, will you have affordable shipping to the UK and when so you think they will be available, I have an Evolv 510 & DNA200 waiting for a good home.

Vaping Bad; There is a ground between the board and chassis. A pic of it is shown in my last post. All of the current carrying wires are within spec. The balancing wires are only carrying ~25 mA, so they don't need to be thick at all. Email Evolv, and ask them about the wires, and whatever questions you have about it. I think that would be better than getting someone's "expert opinion." Some people think that if they read a few Wiki articles and do some research they're experts in the subject. Get the confirmation straight from the actual experts. XenonRam[/QUOTE] I know, I had already posted (#60) about that, I was meaning completing the circuit by grounding 0 V from the battery pack that we had not seen any pictures of.

Can you check if the battery has any voltage in Escribe or with a metre, it will not charge if any cells are too low (IIRC < 2.5 V). If so in Device Monitor - Diagnostics has a recovery charge function, you may need to run it more than once as the charge is slow and time limited for safety reasons. But if the battery does have voltage and it will not turn on it may be the fuse.

If you mean do you need to test again because your loop was not glowing then no, you did a more sensible loop than the other guy.

Look in Escribe Device Monitor while firing they may be @ 2.85 V under load (hard cut off) and 3.55 V at rest.

I don't believe it's silicone, what I did was probe at it with a very small (sharp) precision screw driver and decided it was pretty hard insulation. Also it seemed quite stiff. To determine the gauge, well that was done visually comparing it to a wire in hand which I then measured (real accurate I know). I was more interested in satisfying myself as to what was used. BTW if chassis ground was used, I didn't see it, that would make the wire gauge on the B+ less critical as only half the length of wire is used.[/QUOTE] I hope there is a common ground as the thin black wire is not cutting it. Can you confirm there are only 3 wires from the battery cradle to the board, as my theory/conjecture is from that presumption. It makes sense with a common ground because the thin black wire goes to b1, the thin red to b2 & the 20 AWG red to bat +ve so the negative must come from the chassis. I would have expected that lowest battery negative terminal extends to one of the screw mounts for the battery cradle.

It could be the screen cable came loose and it is locked, may not be but that is one simple explanation.

I just noticed you edit at the bottom of the post with pics dwcraig1 that the battery positive is 20 AWG (I assume silicon) so it is up to min spec if using common ground as I conjected (new word copyright VB 2015).