VapingBad

Isopropyl Alcohol and an old tooth brush. The best way to clean them is in ultrasonic with the correct detergent but it is not available in small quantities that I can see (do your own research if you want to try this as the wrong detergent or too long can cause damage).

They sure did, the early version linked in my footer.

Yes, or you can use a cotton scorch test against a well know wire like Ni200 if you like, you could move on either axis, but leave the value at 68 F as 1. Also credit goes to BlueRidgeDod as IIRC he was the first person to post about this method. I would adjust the y axis (the proportion of res change between that temp and 70 F, assuming it has 1 at 70 F) rather than the x axis (temperature). So if your vape is too cool you would increase the number, if too hot you would decrease it, make very small adjustments. The following is only to show you probably only want a very small change, don't worry about the maths So if I look at the stock curve for SS316. Some curves use 68 F instead of 70 F for the value 1, don't worry about that. the difference between 400 F and 600 F is only 0.086 or 7.35% of 1.170, which is saying the res increases by 7.35% with 200 F increase in temp around 400 F. So if you wanted to increase temp by roughly 25 F I would use 7.35% / 200 x 25 to get the percentage to add to that value, 0.918803%. This give me a place to start, add 0.92% to each value and then see how that works, so for this it would be 2001.0815384001.1807876001.2671928001.344533 This is just an approximation, you could open the csv, calc the TCR for each point, increase those and then calc the ER values from the increased TCRs. The TCR would be in ohms per degree Fahrenheit not Celsius so will be lower than you are used to. I did this in Excel as an example of a 10% increase in TCR. TCR is (ER - ER at 70F)/(temp - 70 F), then to calc the new ER is (temp - 70 F) x TCR + 1. The thing is to keep the shape of the curve, with ss it changes less as the temp goes up. Also don't worry too much about the maths, you can guess the numbers, I only included it to give an idea of how small the change should be. Remember the 200 F point is for a 130 F change so the step will be smaller than the higher temp. These are just approximations and will not be as accurate as actually measuring it, but they should be good enough where you can't get a profile to fit your wire. E: Doh, TCR isn't ohms per temp unit, just the proportion the ohms change, not that that is important right now.

The Jaquith profiles just moved the line up and down slightly to get a slightly better match to the UD wire he had, UD may have changed their supplier since IDK. I tried them all and they make zero difference to vape quality they are just a closer temp match to the wire he had, which is a good thing. You can do the same thing by starting with the profile that matches your wire the closest and editing the curve, a cotton scorch test maybe helpful when doing this.

They are not in the same league as far as output and vape quality is concerned IMO, we all buy for different reasons, but I'll take vape quality over a few percent efficiency any day. I didn't find the battery life better on an Evic Mini than a DNA 75, but vape quality was chalk and cheese. Similarly I just don't rate the YiHi/IPV boards because of the output, the temp mod output is pulsed with no temp limited preheat and they don't even do real time power regulation that Evolv have had on everything they have released.

The DNA 200 can be efficient because it only reduces voltage (buck regulation), the 75 also steps up voltage (boost regulation) so a DNA 40 would be a better comparison. The DNA 40 spec quotes efficiency as 92%, still better than the 75, the much greater power handling capability is likely why the 75 is less efficient.

Your power is set way below your temp and it is not temp limiting and effectively in power mode, nothing wrong with that just saying.

A curve/csv will just make the battery metre more accurate, is not "needed" and will not affect how you device functions, but is nice to have if you metre is not as accurate as you like. They are easy enough to produce if you can't find one for your battery, I just put 4 12" loops of thickish Kanthal on a dripper deck (not touching each other), fined a something to stand the mod in so it can't get knocked over and run the analyser at a wattage close to what you vape at.

Someone should be developing an age verification service so you only have to give details to one company then web stores pass over to them as they do now with PayPal, it would be easy for PP to do it. It should be the governments that pass the laws providing this, but who wants late, over budget and buggy software.

[ALT]+[PRT SC] then open ms paint ([WIN]+[R] and type mspaint) and paste [CTRL]+[V]

Just return the board to Evolv in the usual way. I don't work for Evolv and didn't post anything to you, but there is not a solution other than properly removing and re-fixing the inductor and it's the kind of job where if you need to ask how, best let someone with the right tools do it. The pads are beneath the inductor, the inductor will act as a big heat sink when soldering and without the right tools it would be too easy to overheat the board or end up with a dry joint.

I can't follow what going on here, has the post that started this argument been deleted? Yes BL has been warned before, but it takes two to have an argument and neither of you seem able to just ignore posts that annoy or offend and just have to ramp it up a little, that is helping no one. If it is an inductor that has come off the board then the best advice is to return the mod to the seller or the board to Evolv to fix.

I'm 99% sure the wire profiles are the same across versions it's the processing and features that change, anyway have fun with your new mod.

They may still read ?, then if you also try what mactavish suggested and they still do them 95% sure it just means they have very low (<= 0.002 ohm) res, which is good. If so you should see the res reading going down past 0.003 as you screw the tool in.

You can get the ones in Escribe by starting it and loading the default mod configs without a mod connected. Coming from an SX it will be much smoother temp limiting that can sort of seem cooler, but I started temp limiting with the DNA 40 and found the SX harsh and the temp needing turning down a lot, but I didn't keep it more than a month. Don't lock the ohms unless it is the only way to solve a connection problem as the board tracks the coil while cooling to get a more accurate reading.

Never had to, 380 F to 400 F most of the time with 316L, but what's telling you it was the wrong temp, flavour, vapour production or a bit of both?

The stock SS316 one is great for 316L.

The curves are different, I can't see what you are doing exactly so can't guess why they appear that way to you. The default profiles for Ni200, SS316 and Ti Grd 1 are good and I use the 316 one for 316L. You can set a TCR by clicking the + to create a new material and then the Actions button to set the TCR, the box will always open with 0.006 which is the default and not the value if you are editing as DNAs don't use basic TCR approximations and I would only use them if you can't get a profile/csv.

It has changed since those guides were made. Now you load the csv in the materials tab, then select it in the list on the left set the name & short display name, then click the right arrow to copy it to the device. Now you can select it in a profile and don't forget to upload settings to device.

It is probably hitting the high current protection, that would mean a resistance of 0.002 or less or your mode resistance was already set. It is important to zero the mod res before measuring and you could try a hard reboot of the device after zeroing and before testing.

I didn't realises you were a fellow Brit, yeah the SV is probably the best option over here. I have a couple and they seem good, not had a chance to put one in a mod yet though.

The only place I know of is http://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-510-connector/

We were just discussing that a few days ago here /topic/66679-topic/

He doesn't need to do anything it will not try and temp limit Kanthal, it's automatic it senses it is not a temp sensing wire.

Thank Evolv it's awesome with ss now.